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Posted by MrWindow on 31 July 2012 - 07:06 PM
Posted by Janet H on 02 February 2012 - 08:25 PM
You may have read this announcement and wondered what's next. Here's an update...
We have a brand new Site Team to help out when needed. They've bravely stepped up to volunteer their time without really knowing what's expected and we are very grateful. This is a lovely forum; posts are helpful, polite and just plain fun but occasionally members need to have threads moved, need help with attachments or have suggestions for a new feature. The Site Team is here to help as they are able.
What about Aaron? He carefully built a wonderful community and tended it daily. He's still around although more infrequently than in the past and we're glad to have him drop in anytime. Meet the new team, give them a pat on the back and cut them some slack as they explore the extra tools they have.
Congratulations (and condolences) to:
MarkBC, Ted, Mark W. Ingalls and ski3pin
Posted by DirtyDog on 13 July 2011 - 06:57 PM
New Mexico Campgrounds
Some city highlights (since I love this new feature): Boulder Campgrounds Las Vegas Campgrounds Seattle Campgrounds
We have updated all the Oregon campgrounds and entered every Forest Service campground in Oregon. The result 868 campgrounds total. We also changed this page to a clustered map for faster loading and easier viewing:
Also note that the city pages (seen below the state map) now have a map layout:
The hope is that in less than a year all states will look as good as Oregon.
Posted by Missing Link on 16 January 2019 - 04:48 AM
We did the Dempster to Inuvik in 2010, the Dalton to Dead horse in 2014, and the Trans Labrador Hwy. in 2017. In each case we had five new, or low mileage E rated tires, a reasonably good compressor, and carried no spare fuel. Luck shown on us each time and we encountered no flat tires and only a few windshield chips. As with Old Crow, we had a few sketchy moments. On the Dalton, at the Oglivie Maintenance Station we encountered a barricade with a "road closed" sign . . . . Oh noooo! . . . . we've come all this way. We waited at the sign for about an hour and along came a First Nations family from Inuvik. The man said, "don't worry about it, follow me," and we did. Soon after, we came to a huge washout where a young dozer driver was working on the road. He told us to wait a few minutes, and he cleared a path for us. On the Dalton, among other things, we hit a snowstorm on Atigun Pass in late July. Now that you can drive all the way to Tuk, we plan to return to the Dempster this summer with the same setup (five E rated tires, a good compressor, and no spare fuel). I feel pretty comfortable with this recipe, however, that being said, if any of you WTWers are driving the Dempster this summer and you see a silver F150 with a Hawk stuck by the side of the road, please stop and give me a hand
Posted by rando on 25 August 2018 - 09:22 PM
Posted by PaulT on 03 June 2018 - 07:45 AM
Open the hot water tap and turn on the water pump. When water flows without spitting from the hot water faucet, it’s tank is full.
This may take between 5 & 10 minutes and draws down battery power.
Hook up the fill hose to the city water inlet. Use a pressure regulator on the hose to keep pressure at safe level.
Open hot water faucet. Turn on city water to hose. When water flows smoothly from hot water faucet, tank is full.This takes a couple of minutes & doesn’t draw down your battery.
Posted by rtpvibes on 30 August 2017 - 08:13 PM
07 tundra new e rated tires last week cooper allterrains . Timing water pump kit done at 148 or so .great running 4.8 154,000 . Let me know I'm looking for 9,500 hawk ,truck $ 10k or
18,000 for both . I can email you more pics thanks for your time . Located in ma
Posted by Vic Harder on 11 October 2016 - 08:34 AM
I hope this thread will help us gather most of the info out there on powering our campers into one place.
In short, I hope it will address how much power we need, and how to reliably get it.
To start with, I want to acknowledge the work of others in this space. Forgive me if I miss a few, and please do point them out:
HandyBobSolar - http://www.w8ji.com/...ging_system.htm
Hawk Solar Upgrade - LINK
Running heavier wire for solar panels - LINK
Rice Build - LINK
DrJ on DIY Solar/Trimetric - LINK
ACR – improving your battery isolator - LINK
Modeling Small Solar installations – CarlD - LINK
How much power do I need?
The first bit we need to look at is how much power is needed. DrJ LINK indicates about 60 AH/day is typical for FWC use. If you want to run the numbers yourself:
This calculator can confirm some of that, although it is designed for home alternative energy use - LINK
I went at this in some detail, reviewing each of the appliances I intend to use, which are:
TruckFridge 130L – 24w/hr, 60w input, 5 A; 53 lbs; Size - H x W x D 29 ½" h x 20 ¼" w x 20 ¾" d (estimate 14hrs/day at 24w/hr)
Shurflo 4009-101-A32 pump 12vdc @ 3.5A (max) = 42W/hr (estimate 2hr/day)
ProPex 2200 heater – 1.4A = 16.8W/hr (estimate 5hr/day)
LED lights total = 1A (estimate 6hr/day)
Overhead lights = .8A
(Flood lights = 2.8A)
Porch Light = .2A
Fantastic Fan = 1.5A at full speed (.2A at low) (estimate at 4 hrs/day)
USB chargers (negligible?)
Inverter (120 v to 12v) (estimate running small one of 50W for 2 hrs day)
- Camera battery charger
- MS Surface 3 Pro laptop
Total of 60 AH/day. That’s exactly what DrJ figured out for himself, and also worst case. For example, the if the heater needs to run for 5 hrs a day, then it is likely cold out and the fridge won’t be running for 14 hrs, and vice versa, meaning my draw could be as little as 53Ah, assuming no furnace is needed on warm day.
How much battery do I need to support this load?
And you can use this to figure out your battery bank size
This Crown website has lots of good sizing info too: http://american-batt...olar-batteries/
To put it in words, Crown and others suggest no more than 30% of discharge for maximum battery life for Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) batteries, while 50% is possible with Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries, but that will reduce the battery life. Plugging in the numbers to the capacity calculator (LINK), or spelling it out like this for my case:
60 AH * 50% and 2 days = 240 AH. That means I need at least a 240 AH battery as the smallest I can get away with. If I want to have 3 days between charges, even at the maximum 50% drain the number is 360 AH. Hmmm, maybe I need to adjust my expectations.
OK, so let’s go for 2 days between charges, but keep the batteries healthier, allowing only a 40% draw... that yields a need for 300AH of total capacity. OK, let’s run with that.
Crown’s 6CRV330 model battery looks like a good fit here. Fit being AH. Size is another matter... it is 14.6” tall. I will have to design my battery box to fit that.
Now here is a really strange thing. A bigger battery (or a lower load) get you more AH of daily use and a longer life per battery than you might expect. The relationship is non-linear. Lowering your AH draw or stuffing in more battery will lead to better than expected battery life. This is reflected in the warranty on batteries, which is often stated as 2/5 years. Two years of hard use, or 5 of gentle use. Draining them 50% every day, or just 30% every day.
What kind of batteries should I get?
OK, so more battery is better. What kind? FLA or AGM?
Apparently you can tilt the FLA up to 45*. That would be significant pucker for me, so that isn’t really a limitation.
AGM batteries are spill proof. You can even mount them sideways. That could open up some interesting mounting options in a FWC.
AGM’s can be charged up to 5x faster than flooded lead acid types.
AGM’s can also handle vibration, because they were designed for military aircraft and the shaking they go through, so wash board roads should be no problem.
FLA batteries need maintenance. Lots of it, to stay healthy, whereas AGM’s need none.
Finally, FLA batteries are about 50% of the cost of AGM’s.
OK, so cost favors FLA; everything else favors AGM - vibration, charge time, zero maintenance. AGM it is. How to charge them up?
How do the batteries want to be charged? There are right and wrong ways to charge AGM batteries. Battery capacity and life are critically impacted by how they are charged. Guys like HandyBob are very passionate about the fact than almost NOBODY does it right, and that almost ALL batteries in campers are chronically under charged.
Let’s not be part of that crowd!
First off, there are 3 different types or stages of charging an AGM battery:
Bulk (when you can dump practically unlimited amps into the battery at a pretty high voltage)
Absorb (when the battery is about 85% full, and it gets harder to “push” the amps into the battery)
Float (when the battery is basically fully charged and you want to keep in there)
Manufacturers list a lot more parameters about their FLA batteries than they do for their AGM batteries. I suppose the FLA batteries need more maintenance, so that makes some sense. So , I had to do a bit of digging for this info:
Rolls/Surrette says the max charge rate, or bulk rate, is c20 * 0.35, but more typically c20 * 0.25 - LINK
What does that mean? The c20 rate is how many Amps the battery can provide before it is completely dead after 20 hours of use. If you want more on AH ratings, go here - LINK. The c20 rate is the most commonly quoted one, so my chosen 330 AH battery just happens to have a c20 rate of 330 AH. Running the numbers, I get 330 * 0.25 = 83 Amps, and 330 * 0.35 = 115 amps. These are the amps these batteries want to see while charging. Whoa.... that’s a lot of juice.
More importantly, our AGM batteries have a minimum charging current, that being C20 *0.10 = 33A for my 330 AH Crown batteries - LINK
So, now we know that we don’t really want to draw more than 30% of (c20) AH capacity, but can go to 50% in worst case settings. And we want to charge at least 10% of C20 (330AH) = 33A, and can go up to 115A during the bulk charge phase.
How to do this? A FWC will usually have three options – the truck’s alternator, shore power and Solar. And we introduce another factor here besides the charging current, namely the VOLTAGE at which the battery is charged. This is really important stuff. Read on below, but before getting to charging, let’s look at measuring your batteries STATE of CHARGE (SOC)
How do I know what the SOC is of my batteries?
I think many folks have already sung the praises of the Trimetric 2013 Monitor. I think the simple answer to this question is get one of these. Done. As for why, this POST is very relevant – showing essentially that many folks measure their battery SOC when there is no load on it. That’s a sure way to kill your batteries. Apparently you need to measure the battery under load. The last two pictures on this post are perhaps the most important. The meter shows the battery at 12.1v when at a 49% SOC – the lowest you should ever take an AGM battery. Disconnect the load, and it bounces back to 12.32V, or 70% SOC. If you think you still have 70% left in that battery, you will be majorly disappointed in the battery life/performance you get out of it.
Even this site that has this handy table is mistakenly calling this a no-load table. The marine folks above think it should be considered a full load table.
Oye, sometimes this stuff makes my head hurt!
Charging via your truck’s alternator
Since we are looking at alternators first, let’s consider what the manufacturer (Optima 75 AH Yellow Top) of my truck’s starting battery has to say about how it should be charged. LINK.
They say it wants from 13.65 up to 15V (up to 15.6 if you can monitor the battery temp), at unlimited amps for the bulk charge, or 13.8 to 15v via a charger for 10 hours for an absorb charge, and 13.2 to 13.8 for float charge. The min/max amps for optimal charging (c10 and c35) are 7.7A and 30A.
When your truck is running at more than idle it is outputting its nominal alternator rating. My truck has a 135A alternator. Thanks to the car audio SPL wars, many higher power alternators are now available, and I can upgrade that if need to. These guys make BIG alternators LINK
Assuming my Optima Yellow top starting battery is fully drained, my stereo and headlights are on, the draw would be:
Battery = 30A
Stereo (500w amp plus head unit) = 35A
Low beam 2 x 35w bi-Xenon Headlights = 5A
Misc small lights = (10 x 10w each) = 7A
So I have 77A being taken by the truck, leaving 58A for the camper batteries.
To get better charging rates, I can turn off the stereo and headlights. Assuming I do that and can get the max charge amps out of my alternator, the other key factor to consider is the voltage at the camper battery. As we saw for the starting battery, AGM batteries want different voltages depending on where they are in their charge cycle. Assuming for just a second that the alternator can deliver these, Crown says that this is what you want for a 12 volt system (which includes 2x 6v batteries in series):
Bulk v = 15
Absorb v = 14.52
Float v= 13.5
Note: Trojan lists an alternate value of 14.4v for absorption charge. http://www.trojanbat...ry-maintenance/
Anything less than these voltages and the batteries will not charge properly. They will work, they will take some charge, but they won’t be at full charge, and will drain faster and ultimately fail completely well before their time.
So we need to get those volts to the camper battery, which means we really need to consider the voltage drop that arises from the resistance in the cabling/wires between the source of the power (alternator) and the batteries. Voltage drop depends on the specific length and gauge of the wire, for a given current drawn across it.
So, back to my 330AH batteries. As we saw, they want between c10 and c35 during the bulk charge phase, at 15V.
OK, so can I even get 15V from my alternator? I just went out and measured my alternator’s voltage output. To do that, I measured the battery when the truck was not running (11.5v – whoa, that’s pretty discharged, and that after normal short runs for groceries and such... seems like maybe I need to hook up my trickle charger!). This low state of charge for the starting battery is great for our testing purposes, as it means the alternator will be in bulk charge mode when I start up the truck. So, I start it up and Woot!!! I see 15.2V! Remember that Optima says they can take up to 15.6 for short while during this phase.
Now, what do I need to do to get at least 15V of those volts to my camper batteries, with at least c10 levels of current, as per Crown’s recommendation?
I will be hooking up the wires to my alternator (not the battery posts) and I figure that the distance will be 20’ from there to my camper batteries. This includes all the short little sections between the breakers, the ACR and such. I will want less than 0.2v of loss, or around 1% so I get the full 15V at the camper battery.
Let’s see what the stock – as supplied by FWC – wiring will get us. Using this calculator LINK, and assuming:
10 AWG (stock FWC wire)
15.2 VDC from my alternator
With a SET of wires this size (no frame ground)
And 33A (c10) minimum for bulk charging
(pic didn't come through)
It looks like I will get 13.88v at my batteries. That’s an 8.7% voltage drop, or 1.32v. That only gets me to slightly above a float charge level, not absorb, never mind bulk level. Clearly, those folks on this forum who have upgraded their wiring from the truck to camper and gotten better results are on to something.
What if I want to get closer to a c25 level of current for my bulk charge? That’s 25% of 330AH = 82.5A. Aside from melting my wires, that would result in a 21.7% voltage drop and only 11.9v getting to the camper batteries. Ouch.
BTW, use this link to figure out your fuse size for a given AWG, so you don’t melt your wires! - LINK
So, what AWG wire SHOULD I use? You can use this calculator from Blue Sea (Link), although it generalizes the voltage values too much. I prefer to use the original calculator I linked to and use trial and error with the numbers to figure this out
I figure I should be running 1/0 AWG. That will get me 15V with 50A:
(pic didn't come through)
Let’s think about the implications of this for a minute.
First, I’ve seen a few folks here upgrade to 4AWG, which isn’t big enough according to our calculations, and yet it seems to work for them. Why?
Well, for one thing, they are using smaller batteries. 220 AH or smaller. C10 for those batteries is only 22A. Using the calculator and changing the wire size to 4AWG, I get 14.98V at 22A to the camper batteries. That’s enough to get us well above “absorb” charge state and good enough for a bulk charge even. Given enough time, that will charge up your camper batteries.
How much time? Going back to the Optima website, they recommend 13.8 to 15v for up to 12 hours for a 75AH battery. For the 220 AH battery we just ran the calculator for, that means 220/75 * 12hrs = 35.2 hours to fully charge that 220AH battery. Oh, and if your starting battery is low too, then you have to factor that in too = 295/75 * 12 = 47.2 hours! That’s a lot of driving! And if you need to charge your battery daily... well, last I checked there are only 24 hours in a day. Ooops.
Maybe this is why my nice new Optima only read 12.0 v this afternoon when I tested it. The trickle charger goes on NOW.... stay tuned for results on that. OK, after charging for 18 hours at 10A and 15v the battery reads 13.0 v this morning. Much better. How much better?
According to this graph, at 12v I was at 20% of charge before. Darn near dead. Now, at 13 v (my analog meter needs to be replaced!) I am at 100% charge.
A quote from HandyBobSolar’s website might be appropriate here:
“Get the battery manufacturer’s charging specifications and pay strict attention to them. The charger manufacturers are nearly all not setting their equipment up for the voltage that the battery manufacturers specify. The difference between 14.4 & 14.8 volts is not 3%. That difference is nearly 20% of the charging range (12.2 to 14.8 volts). That 20% makes a huge difference in how full the battery gets before the charger shuts off. You can eventually get the batteries full by charging at 14.4 volts, but it takes hours, not minutes. We have related industries that are not talking to each other and the outcome is that the majority of RV’s are running around with weak batteries.”(emphasis added)
In short, without some other charging method, your truck will never keep the camper batteries (or the starter battery for that matter) at full charge.
See this LINK for a good write up about how to check your vehicle battery and alternator.
Another implication – and a quick note about battery isolator/charge relays:
Many folks have noticed that the battery isolator prevents their alternators from charging the camper batteries. Upgrading the wiring and/or using a BlueSea ACR seems to help. Why?
The isolator is designed to protect the truck starting system so you don’t get stranded with a dead starting battery. It monitors the camper battery, and if it is TOO low, won’t connect to it. What voltage is that? 12.4v. So let’s imagine that your camper batteries are actually at 14.5 volts and would benefit from a long absorb charge cycle, and they want 20 amps for this purpose (about right for a 100 to 200 AH battery). The wire feeding the isolator is the same one running to your batteries, and 20’ long or so.
The ACR will sense that it can charge the camper battery (sense voltage implies no current movement). So it connects. Current starts to flow across that FWC stock install 10 AWG wire. As soon as it does, it incurs voltage drop from trying to stuff all those electrons through that tiny wire. The voltage it now sees is only 13.7v. So it disconnects. After a bit, it notices the batteries are back to 14.5 and connects again... click, click, click.... and no charging is really happening. Sound familiar?
Bigger wire is the answer.
Folks, there is only bad new here, as the voltage output cannot be easily adjusted to meet manufacturers requirements. Even so, a lot of members here have the IOTA DLS-30 with IQ4 as their charger. There is a lot of discussion about the Iota DLS series and IQ4 on the net. The unit is frankly no good at all for FLA batteries – see post #32 in this thread: https://www.solarpan...a-charger/page3.
That said, it might work for AGM batteries with the IQ4, which also appears to be conservatively set, with bulk/absorb only 14.8v (should be 15) and float at 14.2 (should be 14.52).
If you are willing to forgo the automatic features of the IQ4, you can use a trim pot inside the DLS-30 to tweak the output voltages, and use the two separate output voltages to manually do (enabled via the Two-Step Voltage Jack) bulk and float charging. But you have to be careful, or you will boil your batteries to death. Iota DLS manual here http://www.iotaengin...lib/dlsmanl.pdf and the IQ4 manual here: http://www.iotaengin.../#/products/iq4
Info on the trim pot in this thread - http://forum.solar-e...r-potentiometer
My understanding is that when you adjust the higher voltage – to say 15v from 14.8, the normal output voltage will also go up .2v, to 13.6. This would give you a good two stage charger, for bulk and float levels. I don’t know what happens if you adjust the voltage up to 15v and then plug in the IQ4. IDEALLY, it would stay at 15 for bulk, and scale the other voltages too. I will have to try that, or maybe someone who already has a DLS30 and IQ4 wants to try this (at their own risk)?
Conclusions re Alternator and Shore Power
My conclusions about shore power are the same as those reached by HandyBob, who says “Therefore, you can’t expect your converter to charge [your batteries], either. You are actually lucky to ever get your batteries over 80% full with a converter that is plugged in for several days unless the rig is stored and no electricity is being used.”
Oh, and a generator makes no difference here either. If you are feeding your batteries through the DLS30/IQ4 you would have to run the generator for several days also.
There is just no way around it. You have to get the charge voltage up to 15v to get into that bulk charge state, and then once that is done keep it at absorb for many hours to get the last 15% of charge done before you go to float charging. Shore power through an IOTA unit won’t do it if you are using your camper while attempting to charge it, it just can’t keep up. And we don’t have enough hours in a day to drive enough to charge fully via the alternator either.
That said, if I was to camp for two days in the winter in Banff NP, and no charging took place, I could get away with my 330AH setup. My batteries would be down 38%. That’s acceptable. They would get partially charged on the 2 hour drive home from the park, and then the IOTA with IQ4 would likely get them up to a full charge during the week before I headed out again. Boon docking is another story...
In short, we need properly set up solar when boon docking. And what does that look like?
How many AH do I need to recover?
You want enough solar power to recharge your batteries to full power after the number of days you decided (above) would be how long you will go between charging. In my case, that was 2 days, bringing my 330 AH batteries down to 40% to a 60% SOC. Now, on the third day, the sun is out and I need to recharge my batteries, and provide enough power to supply my daily needs to I don’t continue discharging my batteries. Basically, I need to have enough power coming from my solar panels to run my daily load with enough left over for the battery charging.
That’s 60 AH plus 330*40% = 60 + 132 = 192AH.
Sizing your solar panels
You need to know how many solar hours you have in a day at the location where you are camped. This map gives you a good idea - LINK. I myself will often be in zone 5, sometimes in zone 3. That’s between 4.2 to 5 hours a day, at solstice. In the winter, that can be up to 50% less! Winter also adds snow cover considerations. Right now I am not planning to camp in winter, so I’m just going to go there right now. And to keep it simple I’m going to estimate 4 hours of solar a day for my three season camping.
192AH needed with only 4 solar hours available means I need to generate 194/4 = 48.5A when the sun is shining, worst case.
Best case, my system never gets that loaded down, and I just need 60AH every day to keep up with my consumption = 60/4 = 15A
I suppose it would make sense to assume that a typical scenario would be to go 1 day without sun, and then have sun to do a recharge. That means 120/4 = 30A are needed every other day during my available sunlight.
The size of solar panels is usually given in watts. Watts = volts * amps. I would use 15v for the voltage number to make sure I get the needed voltage to bulk charge the batteries, so the watts needed are 30*15 = 450.
OK, so I will need two 225w panels. I think I will mount one on the roof and use another in a portable setup. And I will want to use 24v panels to keep the size of cables down. Why? Well, I understand that the wires to the roof are about 10’ long, and that the stock FWC is something like 12 or 10 AWG, depending on the vintage of the camper. I think mine has 12AWG.
Let’s say I put 3 of the 100W GrapeSolar panels from HomeDepot on the roof. I would be trying to feed 16.68A at 18v back to the controller. Plugging that into the voltage drop calculator (LINK) I get 17.47v, a 2.94% loss. If I use a 265W Canadian Solar 24v panel, I will be trying to move only 8.66A but at 30.6v to the solar controller. That yields 30.32v, a 0.92% loss. Much better. To get the equivalent efficiency from a 12V panel I would need to upgrade the wiring in my FWC to 6AWG, and that is not easy to do.
It gets even more important when considering the portable panel voltage drops, as the wires are much longer to this panel. I figure that panel will be 50’ or more away from my camper to catch the sun while I am parked in the shade. Using the commonly suggested 8 AWG wire over 50’ yields a 5.83% loss with that 12v GrapeSolar panel, and only 1.76% with the 24v panel.
24v seems like a no-brainer to me, except that I can’t use the highly recommended Trimetric 2030 charge controller, and have to get a MPPT type instead. The cost difference is substantial ($300 or more).
I’ve put together a spreadsheet of my costs for this solar setup, and the number is a bit scary, actually. So I am hoping someone can point out that I made a mistake in my calculations or something.... ;-)
Posted by ski3pin on 05 November 2013 - 03:11 PM
The tech folks behind the scenes have been making headway on restoring content - members photos and comments - that was lost during the necessary software upgrade.
Check out this example -
We are told the tech folks are still working on formatting and restoring the ability for members to submit new photos and comments to each spot page.
This "other half" of WTW is an important part of the website and it is very nice to see it working its way back to life.
Good news and thanks!
Posted by DirtyDog on 01 July 2011 - 04:06 PM
Posted by pvstoy on 22 January 2019 - 05:48 PM
We actually had a slight break in the clowns here in the Monterey Bay area.
Didn't get any pictures but did see some nice color just after total.
Thanks for posting.
Did not realize you have such a problem there with clowns. Glad you had a break as they can be ruthless.
Posted by Lineman on 16 July 2018 - 02:33 AM
I needed more insulation in my camper for the climate right AC to keep up here in the hot and humid Midwest. I considered the factory thermal pack, but I question how much it would help in this situation and hesitant to try it because of the price point. I think Reflectix would be effective, but I don't want the hassle of put up and take down. I wanted a light weight thermal pack with insulation that could be left up full time and allow my 5k btu AC to cool the camper to a reasonable temperature.
So, I started looking at fabric options at Seattle Fabrics and ordered a bunch of samples. They stock Thinsulate in three thicknesses, the thickest is 210 gram. I decided this should work, it seemed to compress really well and even folded over on itself a couple times it compresses down to very little. With the insulation chosen I needed a facing material, it needs to be very thin and synthetic to keep it from soaking up any condensation we don't get wiped up in the morning. I found a 1.1 ounce ripstop nylon, also from Seattle Fabrics, that seemed to fit the bill. All together with the insulation, nylon, velcro and shipping totaled $350, inexpensive enough to gamble a home build on.
Over a week later (I used the really cheap shipping) a surprisingly small box arrived and I got started. After remeasuring everything I rolled out the Thinsulate and started cutting. Unfortunately this has to be done on the floor, I don't have anyplace else large enough.
The thinsulate comes 60" wide so two 26" side panels will be cut from it.
This is the second cut and the remainder, these sections are cut 26" wide and long enough to reach well behind the lift panels and will be cut to the exact length later. Next comes the facing nylon, it is incredibly thin, nearly see through. It is rolled out and the insulation laid on top.
An inch and a half margin is allowed for and the whole thing is folded over itself.
The excess is trimmed off, the edges folded in and pinned every three to four inches. This nylon is so slick I'm afraid it move all over when it is run through the machine. The 1.5" velcro is also pinned on. It is only applied where it is needed. I would normally not pin velcro on, but I want to make sure I get these really long pieces where they need to go. Here it is all pinned up and ready to go through the machine.
I ran a stitch across each end and two down the long sides on each edge of the Velcro. Then it was taken out to the camper and installed in place (I first had to install the loop side of the Velcro on the camper wall since my camper was ordered with out a thermal pack). With it in position I traced the window locations directly on the nylon with a pencil. You can barely see the marks in the picture below.
Secure the nylon to the insulation with pins all the way around the opening to keep everything in place, then take a deep breath and hope this plan works, it would be a shame to ruin hundreds of dollars worth of material here.
All the windows came out no problem and even in the right spot! A really sharp knife helps to cleanly cut the nylon, I tried a box blade, but had cleaner cuts with the polished edge on my pocket knife. The edges of the window will need to be trimmed out with something. I cut a 5" wide strip of the nylon, folded it in half and stitched it, turned it right side out and then folded in half again and ironed to form the edging.
Pin this all the way around the opening, overlapping the corners.
There is no need to pin the 1/2" Velcro on here, it can be applied when the stitching is done. After running it through the sewing machine it looks like this, note there is no Velcro across the bottom edge.
Now we need window flaps. These are built just like the rest of the walls, start with a piece of insulation large enough to cover the window opening plus the edging, I my case that worked out to 36" x 15", then wrap it in the nylon and pin every 3-4".
Velcro is added on the three required edges when it is stitched. Then the stitched window is stuck in place on the wall panel.
Secure the bottom edge to the wall panel and run a couple stitches across the bottom and bam a window!
Then then whole thing is hung in the camper again to mark the button hole location on the windows for the bungee loop and to mark the whole thing for length. I decided to make the over all length long enough to tuck behind the lift panel to the first rivet between the lift panel and the soft wall of the camper. The insulation puffs up enough to pretty much seal the gap between the wall of the camper and the lift panel, so it should help slow the thermal loss there even without running really far behind the lift panel.
1.75" button holes are then sewn on the window flaps, the dark spot is where I marked the location with a pencil when the pack was hung in the camper.
Don't forget the stopper pin across the button hole when it is ripped. It would really sting to ruin it now, so close to the finish.
All that's left is to cut the pack to length and finish the ends. I trimmed the pack down just a little longer than the desired finished length, I just used the width of my yard stick, the rolled the facing material back and trimmed the insulation to the correct length. This allows enough material to create a finished edge.
Here it is stitched.
The top and bottom seams will have to be repaired where I had to rip them to create the finished edge, and then it is time to install it in the camper!
With the thermal pack installed the roof was lowered and buckled no problem. I rolled the camper out of the garage and raised the top to test the effectiveness. Missouri blessed me with a couple of 105 degree test days, if it works in this kind of weather it should work anytime we camp. I left the camper out in the direct sun for two days with the AC on the whole time and checked the temperature every few hours. The AC kept the inside 13-15 degrees cooler than outside while the camper was in direct sun, it did better of course with a little shade and shortly after the sunset with the ambient still in the nineties it pulled the temperature inside down to 73. So far I think it is a success! I look forward to testing it in much cooler temperatures.
Posted by PackRat on 08 June 2018 - 07:09 PM
We used to go to Yosemite Camp 7 the last week of July/first week of August for quite a few years back in the late '50s. My folks used an umbrella tent but I had my trusty Army pump tent & air mattress. That was our summer get-away from SF for about 6 years or so.
They bought a place on the Russian River with beach frontage in about 1960 and my oldere cousin and I switched to Army hammocks with the netting/roof cut off. That lasted up into the late 60s for me.
Next was the 55 GMC I fixed up; I wasn't going back to a tent on the ground again with my girlfriend so I rigged up my trusty pup tent over the 8' bed of the Jimmy and added a mattress to it for a year's worth of camping.
I picked up an old cab-height 8' camper that was sitting down in Sausalito near the Heliport for next to nothing, maybe $75.00 and after dumping the old fish netting in it and cleaning it with Clorox and adding some Walnut stain to the wood and cleaning the exterior aluminum and getting the windows to slide again, I used that for a couple summers...if my buddy was camping with me, he had his own tent but when I brought my girlfriend, the 48" width for sleeping was getting to be a tad tight.
Then one time I saw a guy back into the campsite next to me with a camper that looked exactly like mine until he opened the door and began jacking up his Alaskan 8 ft. NCO. After he gave me the usual tour Alaskan owners are wont to do, I had to have one.
I bought an F-150 and found a 60s-era 8' NCO like his and loved it. It was still a bit tight in there, but the option for bug-free sleeping, a propane stove, a water tank/sink and an icebox made it seem like heaven. I made a shakedown trip alone up to Wild Plum camp on the Yuba that Memorial weekend. At about 4am when it started pouring rain I woke up, looked out the rear window as most of the tent campers cleared out and went back to sleep. Next trip was Yosemite with my wife and we stayed in an un-organized place just short of the park. It has started raining with lighting as we got out of the valley but when we arrived, I hopped out, raised the top and we snuggled in listening to the rain falling.
We used that on for a few years until the lack of a restroom became an issue so I sold it and got a Lance. I had to upgrade to an F-250 to carry that beast. It lasted a few years more until a hit-and run destroyed the left front jack and tore open the Cab-Over. It died a miserable death.
A couple years later, I decided on another Alaskan, only this time the C/O was required so we could both have some more sleeping space. I wanted an 8' C/O and now one is in the driveway! It is still a "minimalist rig" by most standards as it had an icebox and sink/H2O tank and a stove, but no furnace and no built in toilet but came with a Thetford.
It still isn't as well outfitted at that old Lance was, or most of what you guys have and has no batteries or solar or anything. If we camp where AC is available, thats fine, we have lights inside. If we don't, then we just spend the time before sleeping outside and use my Coleman lantern. It runs on campfuel of course, not batteries.
We are not planning on long hauls so this works for us as dinner is a BBQ and breakfast is oatmeal and fruit and juice/coffee. I plan to add a small trailer (4' x 6') with a tailgate on it to carry additional things like another icechest, tarps, other things I don't want to haul in the Alaskan like nasty BBQ grills & brickquetts or camp table & chairs. That means we can just pull in at night, raise the roof and crash out. We can "set up" camp the next am.
If you see us in this rig this summer in the Sierras, stop by to say Hi and have a coffee/soda/adult beverage.
Posted by Alley-Kat on 19 May 2018 - 07:06 PM
Yep, that is annoying.
Go to "Tools" on the main menu bar at the top, click on it and then select "Options".
When you get the popup window, click on the top tab "Navigation", then find the "Do Not automatically tilt while zooming" and click it to activate that feature.
I also like to have the "Gradually slow the Earth when rotating or zooming", selected.
On the same "navigation" popup window, you can also select the "Fly-To-Speed" and the "Mouse Wheel" speed.
Posted by Wandering Sagebrush on 24 March 2018 - 03:36 PM
I would put an acorn nut on the end of the eye bolts. It looks like you could really lose some skin with the exposed threads.
Using jack brackets
I was looking for a place to hang my portable solar panel. $5 eye bolts fit the bottom hole in the jack brackets. 4 of them all around, and they make solid tie-down points.
Posted by ckent323 on 09 November 2017 - 07:31 PM
I have the impression that a number of people start with the Solar panels when planning to add solar power to their camper (like I did). So I thought it might be helpful to write a short set of steps to start to process, with the hope that it will help minimize iterations and confusion for folks wanting to add Solar.
Caveat emptor: I am not an expert on this subject but I have read a lot on the topic and I have installed my own Solar System on my camper. I hope I have not omitted any significant steps or considerations.
Solar Power for your Camper – Where to Start (Hint: The Solar Panels are last in this list of steps)
Note: - This has been edited to include recommendations from Rando's comments in the reply thread (below)
1 Determine your daily power consumption from all sources. Make a spreadsheet and estimate power use by device per day in winter and in summer. Determine typical and worst case power consumption.
- Better yet measure your power usage (assuming you already have the camper and are currently using it without solar). Do this to avoid over estimating power needs. There is tendency to add up everything in the camper and worst case run times, then call that number the typical usage.
- To accomplish this consider investing in a battery monitor first (Victron BMV-712) or break out your voltmeter and do some careful state of charge (SOC) measurements to see what your actual usage is. Your loads may not actually add - when it is hot out, the fridge runs a lot, but you don't use the furnace and don't use the lights much. When it is cold out the fridge and fans don't run much, but you run the furnace and lights more. 30-40Ah /day seems to be a pretty reasonable average, but everyone's usage varies based on equipment and lifestyle.
(Note: If you use a CPAP as well as the humidifier and power it from the house battery your power needs could easily be another 40 or 50 Ah a day on top of the other items included in your measurements or estimates above. You may want to consider a separate portable rechargeable CPAP battery, especially if you have access to shore power or move around frequently and can recharge from your vehicle while driving).
2 Determine the environment you will most often be in and how many nights a year you will use your camper: clear, cloudy, on pavement (modest vibration and bouncing), off pavement (perhaps significant vibration and bouncing). The answers to this will help you choose the battery type and the storage capacity you need. It will also help you determine the size of the Solar panel bank that you need to recharge the battery bank.
3 Determine what kind of battery storage and capacity you need/want.
- Deep Cycle, mixed or starting type,
- Flooded lead acid (FLA) , Absorbed Gas Matt (AGM), Gell, or Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4). Each type has its pros and cons.
- Look at Depth of Discharge (DOD) vs Charge Cycles (lifetime) curves relative to your typical power needs and the type of battery you choose. (This may lead you to considering a different battery type). If you do not use your camper more than 20 or 30 nights a year you can draw your battery down significantly further on a routine basis than if you use it 60 or more nights a year (see discussion in the comment/reply thread below).
- Look at battery orientation, venting and shock protection requirements (for example sealed batteries can be mounted on their sides and do not require venting - Gell may be more resistant to shock bouncing than AGM)
4 Think about where you will house your battery bank
- Weight and volume (size) of the batteries
- Where will they fit and where will you run the wires and place the Solar control panel?
5 Think about where you will place the Solar Panels
- Weight and size (length and width) of the solar panels
- Do you want the Solar panels to be fixed in place, deployable or a combination
- Where will you run the wires to connect to the charge control panel and the batteries?
6 Determine how much Solar Power you need each day and the number of panels that requires
- How much power per day will the house batteries receive from the vehicle? Do you tend to move around a lot or stay in one place. Sizing of the wires from the vehicle to the camper is important and wires smaller than around 4 ga or 6 ga can significantly reduce the amount of power available to the batteries (cause recharging to take longer)
- Solar panels (like Batteries) are rated by full or max capacity. On average a solar panel only provides about 75% - 80% of peak output during the day on a clear sunny day and even less on cloudy days so factor that into your calculations. Also keep in mind that any shadow, even a small shadow from a branch or even a leaf can significantly reduce the output from a solar panel, so where you park your camper is important if the panels are fixed on the camper.
- Look at the cost performance trade between using fewer higher output capacity solar panels (larger in length & width) with output nominally 24v versus more, lower output capacity panels (smaller in length & width) with output nominally 12 v. Note: Your Solar Charge controller will need to be able to support the type of panel you choose (12 V or 24 V as well as the max current output of the Solar Panel array).
That about covers the steps to start with.
What charge controller and what configuration is best for connecting your battery bank and Solar Panels are among the next set of steps but beyond the scope of this set of initial steps of where to start.
I hope this is helpful.
Posted by JeffWright on 15 September 2017 - 12:13 AM
Hi guys, I just went on my first trip with my new Lagun table setup. Nothing too exciting about it working as a great table for the rollover couch on my ATC bobcat. But what I think is really cool is that I mounted in a position where I can raise it to the same height as my countertop. Originally I was going to bolt the mount through the frame and outside of the camper but decided to use screws into the frame and then plywood to attach the mount. Partly because I didn't want to take the camper off of my truck and also because I really didn't feel like putting more holes into the side of the camper.
My only change might be raising the existing mount slightly and then adding another mount directly below. The existing setup is great but is at the max end of the height when it's fully raised and then at the complete opposite end of the spectrum (almost too high in the column to clamp on to the mount) when its in table mode.
I also put a mount on my Jerry can holder: Originally I wanted to put it on the side near my propane tank where I can add a T and another line for my portable stove but couldn't pass up the ease of install on the jerry holder. The camper is also made for a little bit smaller of a truck and I'd have had to use a giant spacer to clear the where the sides flare out on the bed.
Posted by CougarCouple on 27 August 2017 - 04:19 AM
This might have been mentioned in other threads concerning lack of propane flow. I don't know.
I installed a water heater in our camper. No problems, things went smoothly. Test fired no problems, good to go right. Nope drove from Vegas to Provo area, now the water heater only lights then goes out. Stove lights then flame dwindles to hardly lit, and the furnace lights, and goes off as fast as it lit. So I tried a different propane bottle same result. So I started thinking the propane regulator is sticking. Stearing at the regulator and wondering what was happening inside, I see the manufacturer name. So I called and ask for tech support. Spoke to Rick and told him what I was experiencing. Do you know there is a flow check valve in the end of the hose which attaches to the bottle. Sure you do, did you know that if you don't open the valve slowly the check valve stops flowing and the small bypass allows a little propane into the lines, but there is not the volume needed to operate the appliance. So if you experience propane woes make sure the stove and all appliances are off, crack the hose at the bottle then retighten and bearly crack the valve. Wait a few seconds then open the valve.
If everything starts to works, good for you, if not might have another issue.
I know it's not a exciting story, but it happened to me and at least I was able to, with reasonable ease overcome this. Without buying needless parts, trying to fix something which was not broken. If this info was in the owners manual, which I did not read very well. I must say I probably would not have typed this post.
Posted by Oconnorcreek on 26 October 2016 - 06:25 AM
Sent from my XT1585 using Wander The West mobile app
Posted by Foy on 12 November 2018 - 03:34 PM
My father and father-in-law were Korea-era vets. Fully half of the 60% of my father's OCS class which drew assignment to Korea were KIA, making his own tenure in the occupation forces in Germany from 1951-1954 a blessing. We have two nephews, still now in their early- to mid 30s, who served in Iraq and Afghanistan. The older of the two is a career man, a West Pointer, and he's likely to be heading back to Afghanistan for a 4th overseas combat tour soon, but as a newly minted O-4 instead of a platoon leader or company commander this time. Our own "baby", all 6'3" + 220 lbs of him, is now 5 years out of a tour in Afghanistan as a Navy Seabee.
In our family, and in North Carolina in general, we respect and revere military service and we LOVE our Veterans. I'm sure such is the case in most of the US.