116 replies to this topic

[trgphoto]

Thanks for sharing Kispiox

 

I do not want to make a malicious statement against FWC as I am sure they are very helpful when working directly with their clients.  I bought both my campers from private sellers so I did not have the benefit of working with them directly.  I do however feel that the way they post the weight information is misleading and results in many people making a less than informed decision about weight.

 

If anyone has any concerns about their camper then call FWC and give them your serial number and see if they have your specs on file.  They may not have them unless you have a later model.  Then the next step would be to find scales in your area and investigate for yourself. 

 

I love my Hawk camper and will be a loyal FWC user for many years to come.  I just feel I need to upgrade to a better truck to support my needs.

[Vento]

If you are having a problem pulling the weight then a diesel is the way to go.(buy one, you will not regret it) I have an 06 Dodge 5.9 cummins and I wouldn't trade it for anything.

 

I think I would be more concerned with the braking of a 1/2 ton more than the weight in the back. My 3/4 ton has hauled some serious loads over the years with no trailer brakes and it has always done really well, but I am willing to bet that the brakes are a lot burlier than a 1/2 ton. 

[Kispiox]

Thanks for sharing Kispiox

I do not want to make a malicious statement against FWC as I am sure they are very helpful when working directly with their clients. I bought both my campers from private sellers so I did not have the benefit of working with them directly. I do however feel that the way they post the weight information is misleading and results in many people making a less than informed decision about weight.

If anyone has any concerns about their camper then call FWC and give them your serial number and see if they have your specs on file. They may not have them unless you have a later model. Then the next step would be to find scales in your area and investigate for yourself.

I love my Hawk camper and will be a loyal FWC user for many years to come. I just feel I need to upgrade to a better truck to support my needs.

When I purchased my Hawk I believe there was a total dry weight certificate of my specific camper with all options prior to installation. Each unit is weighed prior to delivery. I am also all but certain in this over-regulated world of ours their weight plackard on the unit is subject to and in compliance with governing laws.

Edited by Kispiox, 31 March 2015 - 04:44 PM.

[Kispiox]

If you are having a problem pulling the weight then a diesel is the way to go.(buy one, you will not regret it) I am willing to bet that the brakes are a lot burlier than a 1/2 ton.

Without question and handling sway if on a curve when braking. That said, if the 1/2T is not overloaded it too is in spec. My preference is to be well within spec. But again, My camper lives there. I may approach it differently if most of the time unloaded and no other use justifying the 3/4T. Unloaded, I'd much prefer the ride of a 1/2 ton. Loaded on the highway its a smooth ride and the quiet diesel not reving and hunting for gears is more like being in a Cady. But you have to put a lot of miles on it to justify the additional cost.

Edited by Kispiox, 31 March 2015 - 05:31 PM.

[PaulT]

FWC puts the measured as-manufactured weight on your paperwork when you get your camper.  As my camper was delivered with no water or propane, it must be the dry weight.  

 

The mfg plaque is misleading as it does not include as manufactured options in the stated weight. Additionally, your's shows 20 gallons of water but you have hot water so you need to add the additional 6 gallons that the water heater holds. 

 

I think we stress over this issue more than other sites because much of the site is about pop-up campers on smaller trucks so we can camp in our desired remote locations. Truck Camper Magazine has additional info on camper weights in their Buyer's Guide. Click the mfg of your choice and read the disclaimers. Their Newbie Corner discusses matching trucks and campers. 

 

Paul

[Alex]

The best way to get an accurate weigh measure is go to a recycle/dump facility with ground scale and drive your truck on it. That's how I got the weight of my setup. I also have the number for front/rear axle weight.

[Bill D]

FWC weights are easily accessible including the weight of each and every option.

If you feel misled, misinformed or under informed perhaps you should contact FWC for clarification.
FWCs website requests that you contact them regarding any questions about your truck/camper combination.

I knew exactly what I was getting into when I purchased my Hawk, which lives comfortably and within the payload limit on my GMC 1/2 ton. I knew I was the one accountable for my decision, so I did my homework. I did add Firestone Ride-rite air bags, but I was prepared for that. FWCs website indicates that some trucks may need suspension upgrades.

Edited by Bill D, 31 March 2015 - 07:08 PM.

[Kispiox]

Trgphoto, on my way into work this morning (camper on) I cruised easily at 68mph and with tow/haul mode selected at 2100 rpm's on the tach. Yes, the pedal is depressed slightly more than with an empty truck thus pumping more fuel/air into the cylinders, but the truck surely isn't being overworked like you seen to imply above, at least not in my opinion. This is all relative based on experience with this type of mechanical stuff though. You want to see something get worked, try owning a 38' class A 20,000lb motorhome with Ford Triton V10 motor at highway speeds. That thing gets a workout...
Two things come to mind after reviewing this thread a bit more. One, you should consider how much other equipment on our roads and highways are being worked as there are hundreds of overweight RV's out there much more severe than ours (reference above example). Second, I'd highly encourage you to get the Cummins diesel engine in the 3/4 ton pickup as it's runs barely above idle while hauling a Hawk. Be aware of the additional costs associated with this setup though.
For me, I'll stick with the gasser because in reality I'm barely giving it a workout even hauling my camper at highway speeds. Plus, the camper only gets used about 20% of total vehicle use time like stated above, so I like the 1/2 ton option. I hope this helps inform you more. I was curious about how much RV'ing experience you have?
Sent from my SM-G900P using Wander The West mobile app

Kilroy,

No truer words spoken... At 10k more for the motor you need to drive a whole bunch of miles to pay for it on the delta in mileage. Ram has a new half ton with a smaller blueTec diesel that will probably do 20 to 25mpg loaded with a Hawk. If setting up anew, I'd have to give that serious thought. There are a bunch of other trade offs, such as service life,etc. etc. I just filled up for the first time in my life with diesel priced .25 cents below regular but that anomaly probably won't last long. I guess there is presently a Diesel glut due to decreased retail demand in Europe where 80 percent of personal transports are diesel. If that doesn't change they'll tax it more...

[Bigfoot]

 

To make a point on GVWR - There is no grey area when it comes to this.  Its actually in bright yellow on the sticker on the driver side door panel.  It says clearly that you should not exceed this number.  GAWR is not meant to be combined.  You can debate this all you want and unfortunately the rationale that this is somehow a grey area is what contributed to my decision which I now regret.  Maybe a hundred lbs or so is fine but I am exceeding that by much more so it is not ok for me.

 

Let me clarify my perspective on GVWR and why I say it is a gray area. The truck manufacturer determines a GVWR for a particular model based on many factors and tradeoffs which they do not publish. Tow ratings at least have an adopted procedure so we can compare brands and models, but payload does not. It is difficult to compare brands because of inconsistent and contradictory ratings. 

 

What information I could find indicates that GVWR comes from engineering, marketing, legal and regulatory concerns. Engineering tries to meet goals such as performance, ride, handling, cargo, towing, cooling, durability, fuel economy, emissions and cost. Materials, construction and weight rating are chosen for reasons that may be secondary to us. As an example of how absurd it can get, some half-ton, crew cab pickups have such a low GVWR that their rated payload is barely adequate to carry the driver and the rated number of passengers--nothing left for cargo! 

 

The weight label applied at the factory is little more than a snapshot of how the truck was built. One person likened it to the label on a mattress. It is rare for anyone to look at the label or to care if it is missing (as it could be after the truck has body work or is painted). Some states have weight-based registration fees, but neither law enforcement nor insurance care about the GVWR on a private pickup. It is legal to run your truck and camper above the truck's GVWR. 

 

In the end GVWR is a guideline that we can use as one point of reference in choosing the best rig for our needs and budget. There are many choices and different approaches. I've seen purposely-built rigs I would not hesitate to drive that were carrying twice their rated payload, although for my purposes I chose a 2500 because it works well completely stock. Still, I don't put a lot of weight into its GVWR. 

[Advmoto18]

 

The weight label applied at the factory is little more than a snapshot of how the truck was built. One person likened it to the label on a mattress. It is rare for anyone to look at the label or to care if it is missing (as it could be after the truck has body work or is painted). Some states have weight-based registration fees, but neither law enforcement nor insurance care about the GVWR on a private pickup. It is legal to run your truck and camper above the truck's GVWR. 

 

 

First...

Agreed, the label is based on THE truck the manufacturer uses for Federal DOT and NHTSA certification.  The manufacturer then publishes the weight of any added option, upgrade and/or feature.  The label on the driver door jam (reguired by federal regulation) is a legal placard for THAT truck given the build out on the manufacturers certifacte of orgin.  The certifiacte of orgin is delivered with the vehicle from the assembly plant to the dealer and is a federally reguired, legal document.

 

Second.  The placard on the door jam is a NHTSA mandated placard.  It is NOT the same as the tag on a pillow!  Not even close!    Some states which require annual safety inspections, require the inspector to annotate the placard's prescence. 

 

All 50 states and D.C. prohibit the operation of vehicles on public highways which exceed the vehicle's placarded weight.  Speacial use, over-weight permits are available in some states.

 

The liklihood of being randomly inspected for over-weight status is very remote.  However, if you are involved in an accident, the weight of the vehicle will be closely scruninized if there is any question in the mind of the investigator.  The vehicle's placarded GVWR is used in all enforcement actions. If it is determined you operated your vehicle over-weight, civil and possible criminal penalties (if a person is injured) are a real possibility.

 

The GVWR placard is not simply advisory information and that which you may discount or choose to disregard as an inconvenience.

 

While GVWR is generally a discussion most likely found involving commerical vehicles, it is also pertient to 1/2 ton pcikups and other vehicles usually classified under 10,000 pounds.

 

GVWR is not a legal "gray" area and a subject every pickup/slide-in camper driver should be keenly aware IMO.

Edited by Advmoto18, 31 March 2015 - 09:45 PM.