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Tech Tip: Auto-Relighter for Propane Refrigerators


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#61 Stereo

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Posted 15 July 2020 - 03:41 PM

I hope, despite this being an older thread, that I will get an answer. I thought it best to continue this one rather than starting a new one.

 

I recently installed a battery-powered barbecue sparker to replace my piezo. It works great; it lights my Dometic 2193 three-way fridge very quickly. However, the flame keeps blowing out in windy conditions, even after I fashioned a wind shield to slip around the flame assembly. (The flame stays lit in calm conditions so I know it doesn't go out due to a faulty thermocouple.) It has been very frustrating to leave for day-long hikes and come back to a warmed frig, especially after the hassle of leveling the truck to avoid damage to the propane fridge. (Geez. I wonder if it would be possible to design a mount that allows the fridge to self-level, within reason.) I'm hoping to solve this problem by upgrading to a reigniter.

As others have mentioned, the Atwood 93212 is no longer made. The Robert Shaw 785-002 9v-battery model includes an electrode, nicely-insulated wires, and mounting hardware but the cheapest I could find it for was $97. I found a 12v reigniter on ebay for $29. It didn't come with any wiring instructions so I'm hoping someone can double-check my assumptions. I know the center terminal is for the electrode wire. There are three other holes but only two other terminals. Based on the sticker, it seems obvious that "A" in the photo below connects to the (+) side of my 12v wiring and "B" connects to the (-) side but previous pictures of the 9v reigniter shows a ground wire, too. Is this reigniter grounded through the 12v system? If not, how can I ground it without a designated terminal?

 

Reigniter.jpg

 

 


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#62 pvstoy

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Posted 18 July 2020 - 02:41 PM

Looks like you got it right.  The ground make sure there is a path back to the battery.  The Positive where you tap from use a fuse ~5 amp range depending maybe a 2amp.  And add you thermal sparker to the flame area and adjust for spark gap.  


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#63 Stereo

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Posted 18 July 2020 - 04:13 PM

Thank you for the additional information. It sounds like I need to adjust my ground because I just grounded to the back of the fridge. I'll adjust to ensure that the ground goes back to the battery, indirectly or directly. The reigniter is working great, though. It sparks even before the flame is all the way out. A huge worry has been eliminated from our camping. Yay!
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#64 Stereo

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 12:21 AM

UPDATE - Learn from my mistakes

 

After successfully wiring the frig relighter, we went camping above 10,000 feet. The relighter was sparking very frequently. I then realized that the electrode was probably not deep enough into the flame. It worked great down "low" (5800 feet) but at higher altitudes, the flame is starved of oxygen so it shrinks. With every tickle from a breeze, the flame would move just enough away from the electrode to prompt the relighter to spark. 

 

My original electrode was a stub style electrode (1st photo). Due to a broken wire, I replaced it but lengthened the electrode tip (no photo, sorry). I had tried the hook-shaped electrode illustrated by previous posters but though I got a good spark (2nd photo), it would rarely light. Gas would build up in the chimney and then explode which might or might not light the pilot but was certainly not right.  

 

Original electrode_rotated.jpg Spark 1 (2)_200802052206_200802052222.jpg

 

Given the issue at altitude, I was convinced that more of the electrode had to be in the flame (the relighter senses the flame, not the temperature) so I went back to the hook-shaped electrode. But this time, I rotated the hook vertically so the electrode is more over the thermocouple, rather than next to it (3rd photo). It still grounds to the thermocouple, but the spark is more centered over the middle of the gas input and there's a lot more of the electrode in the flame. I also had to wrap some flashing material around the insulation to thicken it enough for the clamp to hold it tight. 

 

DSC01679_200802060909.jpg

 

It's now lighting almost immediately. I tested it on low in windy conditions and never heard the relighter go off so I'm hoping it will now work at altitude. I'll let you know if I continue to have issues.

 

I did have to find a different circuit to tap into to power the 12v relighter. There must be a loose connection in the line I tapped. It runs to some interior lights that have occasionally not worked. I had thought it was a problem with the bulbs but now know it's in the wiring. Perhaps a 6v relighter would be a better choice to avoid any wiring issues but it was more than twice the price. 

 

 

 

 

 


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#65 pvstoy

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 03:42 AM

Thanks for sharing the update , sure it will help others looking for solution.
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#66 Stereo

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 01:10 PM

You're welcome. I have so appreciated all the help and wisdom I receive from others on this forum. I want to give back when I can, even if it's only so other's can learn from my mistakes. :rolleyes:


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#67 mht

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 03:05 PM

Way back I installed a relighter on my 2000 Dometic Fridge but used the original ignitor probe which we know won't work properly (ignites with the electric sparker but doesn't stop clicking after successfully lightning). I gave up but still found it useful to light the burner.
I have never figured out how to remove the burner from under the chimney w/o major disassembly. Back in 2009 I see that pods posted a procedure but refers to using a pry bar to lift the "compression area" to access the burner. Would someone who's done this please clarify how and what needs to be moved to get the chimney high enough?
Thanks

Edited by mht, 23 September 2020 - 03:55 PM.

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#68 Stereo

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Posted 23 September 2020 - 05:02 PM

MHT, for steps and photos, see https://www.wanderth...ic-3-way/page-2 (post 11).


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#69 mht

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Posted 29 September 2020 - 09:51 PM

Wow, that's a great write-up and perfectly clear.Thanks! After so many years not having it fully functional, I'll have to see whether it's worth the effort. You must have investigated the repositioning of the chimney from the top? Haven't cleaned the flue for a few years and I don't recall how the chimney is secured at the top. Too many pipes surrounding it I imagine.

Thanks again!
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#70 rrands1

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Posted 19 May 2021 - 11:53 PM

I know this is a pretty old thread, and I hope someone can still help!!

 

I would like to do this, but having trouble finding a relighter for <$100, and I would like it to be in the <$50 range if possible!

 

I found one that looks like it would work here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133376727227

 

And the price is right, but they are out of stock.  

 

Anyone have a line on either a 9v or 12v (preferred) relighter module?  I can source the electrodes, etc, but really would like to get something that is affordable - my fridge goes out regularly when on the road, despite having blocked some of the baffles, etc, and I think this would do the trick!

 

 

Thank you!


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