69 replies to this topic

[John D]

Attempting to run my refrigerator on propane all the time, I find the flame blows out when driving over 45. People are requested to post how they resolved that problem. The electronic spark above is part of the solution.

[the fisherman]

Are you going to tell us the rest of the solution?

[CJ8Rockcrawler]

I'm guessing the fridge model might have something to do with it as well... I have run mine completely on propane the few trips we've used it on and it has yet to blow out. (knocks on wood) The trips have included everything from interstate travel at 70 to 80 mph and all day offroad stints from bouncing washout areas to high speed washboard.

I like this idea though.. it gives some piece of mind. I would hate to go back to the camper while setting up camp to find warm beer!

[ScottBailey]

Patrick,

Thanks for the great mod!

My parts are on the way and I intend to install this weekend.

SB

[Jack]

We generally run on 12V on long hauls and switch to propane if we will be doing much stopping. 12V seems to provide more even temperature, but on really hot days, we run on propane, since it can cool a bit better than 12V.

I added a 12V computer fan in front of the coils to improve cooling and it is noisy enough, fortunately, that it reminds me that we are running on 12V when we stop, so I don't forget to switch to propane. In the past, I ran down the battery more than once. (But just in case, I also installed a BatteryBrain to protect the FWC battery.)

I strongly recommend a $25 external fridge thermometer. To keep the fridge between 34F and 44F' requires constant adjustment when running on propane. With propane, the fridge is VERY sensitive to the outside temperature and humidity. If you mount the thermometer readout above and on the right of the fridge door, you can read it through the side window.

[ScottBailey]

EDIT: I found the Dometic electrode fails after a number of uses. Install the Atwood electrode.

From the outside, this looks like a potentially hard and possibly unsafe mod. It's not. I did it in 2 hours, but now you can do this in 20 minutes! What's more, you aren't going to fiddle with the fuel delivery system, so the mod becomes far less risky.

First, hat tip to Patrick for the initial post and great idea. I cannot describe how much I despised starting my refer. With the auto re-lighter, it's as simply as turn the knob, flip the switch, and push and hold until clicking stops!

Parts:

• Atwood Pilot Relighter Kit for Water Heater, #MPD 93212 (per original post)
• 9 volt battery

Tools:

• Pliers
• Phillips Screwdriver
• 5/16" or 8mm wrench or ratchet (may differ for you)
• Optional: Small standard screwdriver, pocketknife, thin kitchen knife, etc.

Instructions:

• Get tools and parts.
• Discard Atwood electrode and wire. We aren't using them.
• Ensure propane is OFF.
• Ensure power to refer is disconnected!
• Carefully remove the wire from the bottom of the push button lighter (this is the hard part). Be careful here, you don't want to short the wire.
• Position--DO NOT install!--re-lighter body such that the middle screw can be used for ground and the battery is easily accessed(see pic 3).
• Attach ground.
• Using pliers, squish the end of the push button connector flat (see pic 1&2).
• Attach modified original electrode wire to Atwood re-lighter. (If you squeezed to much, use your optional tool to undo it a bit!)
• Insert battery.
• Install (i.e. screw the Atwood unit down) after testing.

Test:

• Turn re-lighter on. You should hear clicking and see, if it's dark, a spark through the "peep hole".
• Apply propane, everything should now "just work".

That's it. Easy huh?

Attached Thumbnails

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[ScottBailey]

Here is a reasonably priced source ($49 + shipping):
http://www.adventure...per-p-1474.html

As an aside, it took me 2 hours to disassemble, decide that I could probably use the Dometic electrode, hook it up, test, and reassemble.

This is a wonderful examples of the various individual contributions summing to a greater whole!

[chnlisle]

So will this thing work on a Norcold too?

And while we're talking propane....I was telling a friend that I fire up the fridge before I leave home and run it on propane full time while driving. He thinks that that is a dangerous practice because of fire danger if there's a collision or other mishap.

Any of you have thoughts on this?

[pvstoy]

Hi Scott......

Thanks for taking it one step further.

I did not think about using the existing probe as a thermocupler. As lond as it is in the flame and the striker will not spark, and when it cools it will spark then it is a go.

Hi chnlisle,

If your probe will work as above then go for it. The bigger freg with the freezer I would leave alone and just add the Attwood unit seperatly.

Doom and Gloom....What ifs are pleanty up the wazoo. A lot of the coachs and trailer units auto switch from AC to LP when AC is offline. Most don't run on battery (DC). The only problem you could have is in a closed place or if the flame gets a ton of vapor from filling up with gasoline. How many houses blow up with a hotwater heater in the garage and vapors.

There are a lot of "it could happen" but I would not worry about running on LP, I've been doing it for years as with many others.

[Stan@FourWheel]

it should work on the Norcold refrigerators too

(I think Patrick added one for his friends that are using a Norcold in their FWC)

I will let you know in a few weeks, I also ordered one today for my camper. I have the smaller 1.7 cu.ft. Norcold refrigerator.

Patrick showed me that years ago and now I'm finally getting around to actually trying it out (laughs)

Thanks Patrick & Scott for the helpful write ups !


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So will this thing work on a Norcold too?

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