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Broken Hold Down Eyelet


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#11 Shadyapex

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Posted 16 February 2016 - 01:17 AM

Just went through this in my Eagle.  Once you get the 1 3/4" fascia board removed you can remove the four screws that secure the board covering the water tank.  Once that board is removed there's plenty of room to reach in and remove/replace the broken carriage bolt.

Thanks for the tip, so this allow one with normal/large hands to access the bolt?

I did replace the eyelet with the new style of bracket from FWC that used a larger plate and 3 bolts to secure a piece of aluminum angle and am told that they basically don't fail. It looks far more confidence inspiring than the eyelet so I'm hoping to not have any more trouble. Thanks for the info, though. Steve,,,,,


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#12 BobD

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Posted 16 February 2016 - 01:22 PM

Yes, with that board removed there is more than enough room to reach in there.


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2010 Tacoma DCLB   2012 FWC Eagle

2017 F350 4x4 -  Super Doody Flushed

2019 DCLB Tundra - 2012 FWC Granby


#13 BobD

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Posted 17 February 2016 - 01:51 AM

Thanks for the tip, so this allow one with normal/large hands to access the bolt?

I did replace the eyelet with the new style of bracket from FWC that used a larger plate and 3 bolts to secure a piece of aluminum angle and am told that they basically don't fail. It looks far more confidence inspiring than the eyelet so I'm hoping to not have any more trouble. Thanks for the info, though. Steve,,,,,

Steve,

 

I didn't realize FWC had changed from the Elevator (Eye Bolts) to a newer bracket.  Did you upgrade all four or just the front two?  Did you install the new brackets or have them do it?  What did they charge for them if you don't mind my asking?  I've had both front bolts break so that's why I'm asking.  Thanks, Bob


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2010 Tacoma DCLB   2012 FWC Eagle

2017 F350 4x4 -  Super Doody Flushed

2019 DCLB Tundra - 2012 FWC Granby


#14 Shadyapex

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Posted 17 February 2016 - 04:29 AM

Steve,

 

I didn't realize FWC had changed from the Elevator (Eye Bolts) to a newer bracket.  Did you upgrade all four or just the front two?  Did you install the new brackets or have them do it?  What did they charge for them if you don't mind my asking?  I've had both front bolts break so that's why I'm asking.  Thanks, Bob

Hi Bob, I broke 3 front eye bolts in an annoyingly short period of time so when I called FWC for yet more replacements I naturally asked what might be done to remedy the problem. That's when they told me about the new hardware. They didn't know what would be required to retrofit but I was sick of breaking things so I ordered the new stuff.

I just did the front 2 as I've never broken one of the rears. The right one was easy and only required some very miner grinding to make the top plate fit. The left one required that the mount point mover forward about a half inch or so.

I don't remember what the cost was but while it was more than I had imagined it would be it wasn't exorbitant, well, not too exorbitant anyway. Give Shaw a call if you're interested in upgrading. It looks like I'm done replacing that ****.


Edited by Shadyapex, 17 February 2016 - 04:31 AM.

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#15 Shadyapex

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Posted 17 February 2016 - 05:04 AM

Bob, some further thoughts.

I initially had the Eagle mounted on my '97 Taco and had no problems. The broken hardware issue reared its head when I upgraded to a 2014 Taco. I think the problem was exacerbated be the location of the anchor points mandated by the composite bed on the new truck. The angle of incidence of the turnbuckles was much further from vertical and I think that produced a much larger lateral load on the pickup points on the camper. Also on the "97 the front turn buckles ascended to the rear and the rear turn buckles ascended to the front so they opposed each other. On the '14 both ascended to the rear but I think that only really lead to more loosening issues.

When I first started breaking eye bolts the "engineer" at FWC suggested that the problem could be solved by adding a quick link at the end of each turnbuckle as this would "soften" the load. This sounded ridiculous to me and I basically ignored it. Adding a piece of hardware to the link between truck and camper does nothing to change the load or angle of the turnbuckle. I think the problem is now solved with the stronger pick up points on the camper. I think the front camper pick up points experience a greater load than the rears because the distance between the truck and camper points are much greater than those at the rear and the lateral load is therefore larger, being further from vertical. The old eye bolts are plenty strong when you pull straight down on them, not so much when the load is to the side. Hope I've expressed that well.


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"It's not an optical illusion, it just looks like one."


#16 BobD

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Posted 17 February 2016 - 02:31 PM

Steve, thanks for the update, great explanation.   I agree that the angle on the front turnbuckle is definitely putting the bolt in shear.  I'll probably end up giving FWC a call and upgrading the front mounts for peace of mind.  Once guilty, always suspect...


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2010 Tacoma DCLB   2012 FWC Eagle

2017 F350 4x4 -  Super Doody Flushed

2019 DCLB Tundra - 2012 FWC Granby


#17 WyoIDI

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Posted 18 February 2016 - 04:23 AM

I fixed this issue on my older camper by getting rid of the the eyebolts that were on it and using rock climbing bolt hangers and aluminum plates on both sides of the floor pack wood.  I also used the bolt hangers in my truck bed with grade 8 bolts all the way around.  The low profile of the bolt hanger seems to handle the torque from the turnbuckles much better than an eye bolt that sticks out too far and is pulled out by leverage.  I'm not sure what the new mounts are, but I think you can purchase bolts hangers for a few bucks a piece and mine have held up great on many a rough road for several years now.  If I was better at posting pictures I'd include a picture, but a quick google search of bolt hangers should suffice.


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#18 Shadyapex

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Posted 27 February 2016 - 06:00 AM

I fixed this issue on my older camper by getting rid of the the eyebolts that were on it and using rock climbing bolt hangers and aluminum plates on both sides of the floor pack wood.  I also used the bolt hangers in my truck bed with grade 8 bolts all the way around.  The low profile of the bolt hanger seems to handle the torque from the turnbuckles much better than an eye bolt that sticks out too far and is pulled out by leverage.  I'm not sure what the new mounts are, but I think you can purchase bolts hangers for a few bucks a piece and mine have held up great on many a rough road for several years now.  If I was better at posting pictures I'd include a picture, but a quick google search of bolt hangers should suffice.

That's a great idea, wish I had thought of it before I spent a fair amount of coin updating the anchor points. I've got a few bolt hangars still lurking around and I'll bet they would have worked just as well as you suggest. I should have thought of it as I've used hangars for various hold down chores in different camper rigs over the years. The new anchor points are a bit of solid looking aluminum angle with 3 bolts to secure them through the large aluminum plates. Pretty confidence inspiring so I guess I'm OK with it now.


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"It's not an optical illusion, it just looks like one."


#19 Roaming_Eagle

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 05:04 AM

Thanks for the info looks like I have a project ahead of me tomorrow. Currently camped out in a Lowes parking lot waiting for them to open in the morning.


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#20 Roaming_Eagle

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Posted 24 August 2017 - 03:35 PM

Thanks for the info looks like I have a project ahead of me tomorrow. Currently camped out in a Lowes parking lot waiting for them to open in the morning.

Problem solved back on the road after 2hrs in Lowes parking lot replacing each one with stronger hardware.


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