33 replies to this topic

[Denver Alaskan]

Engel SB70F installation

 

Wiring, installing and screwing the Engel in its space was easy and straightforward. When my head is beside it while laying down on the bed, I can hear the deep rumble when awake, but it never woke me up once asleep.  When my head is at the opposite end of the bed, next to the sink, the low rumble is barely noticeable at all.  You have to strain to hear it in this later sleeping position.

 

I’m very pleased with the off-the-grid performance of my Engel refrigerator and the 200 watt photovoltaic solar panel system that keeps it running 24 hours a day. 

 

 

 

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 

[Denver Alaskan]

Other uses for the 12 volt electrical system

 

When camping or exploring I prefer to live outdoors as much as possible, so I use the Alaskan like an over-the-road trucker might use the sleeper compartment on his 18 wheeler, only for sleeping and storing food. So I never raise the top as I don’t need the extra headroom; I love it lowered because it makes me feel as snug as a bug in a rug. 

 

When sitting up in bed with the Alaskan top in its lowered position, I had often hit my head on original 5” tall 110 volt AC kitchen light that was centered above the dinette. So I removed it and replaced with a much thinner 12 volt LED round light sold for RVs. The new LED light is not yet wired into my 12 volt electrical system but I may, or may not, get around to doing to that next spring. Frankly, the new LED ceiling light is not really needed as I use a small 12 volt magnetic puck flashlight from Harbor Freight as my interior light while getting ready for bed. It is more than sufficient, and I no longer conk my head on the old kitchen light’s glass globe.   

 

Eventually I may also rewire the 110 volt AC cone lamp on the left rear top wall above the stove top for 12 volts. But again, I’m in no hurry because I haven’t yet seen any real need for light from that source. The Harbor Freight magnetic punk LED flashlight are cheap and easy to use.  Unlike a fixed light source, they can be moved to wherever light is needed, a real benefit.  Simple is good.               

Attached Thumbnails

• 

[Rusty]

when you get tired of bumping your head...take a couple strokes on the pump and pin the top up part way up...just enough to clear the noggin

 

I'm watching the electrical threads...I've got a couple panels waiting to be installed this winter on the new CO

[Denver Alaskan]

Rusty:

 

Thanks for your suggestion to raise the top just a bit to its lowest position for more headroom. But I forgot to mention that with the more flush LED ceiling light replacement I no longer bump my head on it. Being 5' 6", I've also always been able to sit up on the edge of the (dinette made into a) bed without my head hitting the ceiling. So all is comfortable.  

 

I used 10/2 stranded wire to connect the two 100 watt solar panels to the Blue Sky Sun Charger 30 PWM controller. I could not find stranded wire in that paired gauge locally in Denver so I ordered it from AM solar, who has it made to order for some of their smaller solar panel installations.    

[Rusty]

I now understand.....  

 

....being 6'3"...a couple pumps definitely makes a difference.....

[Denver Alaskan]

After driving around a while, I became concerned that the inherent flex in the two aluminum angle side rails over the 8 foot long clear span might eventually weaken their metal around the drilled holes, causing them or the solar panels to become detached somehow.  So to minimize flexing up and down while underway at speed, I installed two rubber bumpers midway on each side to put a slight positive arch into each side rail to prevent it from vibrating up and down.  A friend who works on trucks gave me these rubber bumpers.  Each one is 2-1/2 inches in diameter across its bottom base, 2-3/8 inches in diameter across its rounded top, and 1 inch high.  The center is hollowed out about 1/2 inch deep, leaving 1/2 inch of material across the entire base. There is a 7/16 inch wide hole in its bottom.  

 

To get the necessary height to put a slight positive arch in the side rails, I stacked two bumpers one on top of the other, both upside down so the 2-1/2 bases were at the top of each bumper.  I placed a 2-1/2 inch diameter large washer above the upper bumper mostly to keep the sun off it, but that seems unnecessary as the bumpers are mounted mostly underneath the side rail and solar panels, out of direct sunshine. 

 

The bumpers appear to be doing their job as the side rails no longer flex when shaken vertically from near their rear ends.  So far the bumpers have not pounded round indentations into the aluminum camper top where they touch it.  So it appear this dampening solution works.  Here are two photos of the bumpers, as acquired and installed.  Enjoy!        

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 

[Splittie]

Denver Alaskan - I really want to thank you very much for the time and effort you've put into describing your heating, electrical, and refridgerator additions to your camper. I'm just beginning my summer project of rebuilding or refinishing my "new" early-model, 8 foot Alaskan camper and this information is invaluable to me.

 

I appreciate the level of detail (and the photos) that you've included in your descriptions.

 

Thank you!

[Happyjax]

Excellent thread! Well written and documented. A help for many I am sure

[wagoneer]

Yes thanks for re-posting well written and great info. I will be using a "chest Fridge" on drawer slides.

[noteven]

Thanks Denver - great thread.

Many ideas for my 1974 CO.