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Automatic Charge Relay - How to Improve your battery isolator

Battery isolator ACR Truck charging

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#91 Advmoto18

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 11:43 PM

The better solar controllers such as the Trimetric and Victron types I am familiar with most certainly do have all the necessary logic to ensure the camper batteries are charged optimally.  My Victron 75/15 is a lot smarter (and adjustable) than an IOTA, even with the IQ4.  

 

In my rig, the alternator (it puts out up to 15.5V when cold out) can send 80+ A to my camper batteries.  When I see that the batteries are getting close to 95% SOC, I manually disconnect them from the alternator and let the solar panels do the job of finishing them off right, which includes things like compensating for temperature, and determining if they are actually full up by measureing the "tail current"

 

That said, I also have a NOCO Genius 7200 for when I want to top off using shore power, but it is no where near as smart as my solar controller.

 

Vic...

 

I concur with all you noted...

 

I was thinking more along the line a camper equipped by the factory.  Thankfully, folks at the FWC "home office" listened to owners and now install a better switch for charging camper batteries.  Too bad a "smart" digital solar controller capable of enabling all three charging stages isn't offered by the factory.  Given the up-charge for solar, most of us that choose this option would likely choose a full logic, "smart" controller as well.

 

Bottom line to ensure optimum charging and longevity, is to put your camper batteries through all three stages weekly and try to keep them fully charged when possible.


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South Carolina Low Country.  


#92 ckent323

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 11:45 PM

Bill,

 

Glad I was able to untangle the words around my thinking sufficiently.  ;-)

 

Thanks for letting me know.

 

BTW:  I was not aware that some batteries have built in charge controllers.  If they can do that cost competitively it makes sense. 

 

Craig


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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#93 Vic Harder

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 11:52 PM

Vic...

 

I concur with all you noted...

 

I was thinking more along the line a camper equipped by the factory.  Thankfully, folks at the FWC "home office" listened to owners and now install a better switch for charging camper batteries.  Too bad a "smart" digital solar controller capable of enabling all three charging stages isn't offered by the factory.  Given the up-charge for solar, most of us that choose this option would likely choose a full logic, "smart" controller as well.

 

Bottom line to ensure optimum charging and longevity, is to put your camper batteries through all three stages weekly and try to keep them fully charged when possible.

The factory ZAMP controller may well be very smart.  I am not familiar with it though, so didn't include that in my comments.


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#94 PaulT

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Posted 21 March 2018 - 06:31 AM

Zamp says they have 5 stage charge profile.
1. Soft charge for severely discharged battery
2. Bulk
3. Absorption
4. Equalization - for FLA & calcium batteries only
5. Float

LiFePO4, Lithium titanium oxide, AGM, gel, FLA, calcium chemistries supported

Manual for the 30 amp controller here: https://static1.squa... Controller.pdf

Voltages specified in table near end of manual.

Paul
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I thought getting old would take longer.

#95 Herve

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 05:14 AM

Herve, the bigger problem than your IBS relay.  Toyota alternators don't put out a high enough voltage for most camper battery systems, especially for remotely charging the camper battery over the skinny wires normally installed.

 

Solutions include:

 

1) Much bigger wires

2) C-TEK or similar 12V to 12V booster.

 

Several folks on this forum are using the C-TEK and liking it.

 

I am lucky in that my alternator has a very high voltage output (probably cooking my poor truck battery) and I have heavy 2g wire from the alternator to the camper batteries, so I can easily charge the camper batteries with a couple of hours of driving.

 

If I buy the C-TEK D250SA without the SMARTPASS and install it near the camper batteries, I don't have to upgrade the wires from the truck to the camper, right?

 

It looks like FWC used 10 AWG cables and the D250SA manual says that's fine for up to 5 meters: https://tinyurl.com/d250sa-manual

 

If my Tundra alternator produces 13.5V and there is 0.7V voltage drop to the D250SA alternator input, it will receive only 12.8V but it should do its job and bump up the voltage to the camper batteries located next to it.

 

I won't be able to jump the starter battery or trickle charge it if I don't have the SMARTPASS and bigger wires but I can always use jumper cables in that rare case (so far had to do this twice in 7 years).

 

My batteries (in parallel) want 8A-35A charging current each so 16A-70A total. I'll be limited to 20A when charging from the alternator but that's already better than what I get from the solar panel.

 

Sounds right?

 

I was re-reading part of the "I need more power Scotty!" thread and found some concerns about the quality of the MPPT controller in the D250S (see page 2). In practice, are you all happy with its MPPT performance?

 

(BTW I have AGM batteries for both the truck and the starter battery).

 

Cheers,

 

Herve


Edited by Herve, 28 March 2018 - 05:22 AM.

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#96 Vic Harder

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 05:22 AM

That sounds like a workable solution Herve, within the limits you mention.  Like mentioned in the Scotty thread, the Ctek isn't adjustable for individual battery specs, but you can set it for AGM or FLA.... Check what your battery spec sheet says it wants for absorb and float.  If it's close to what the Ctek puts out, use those 20A it will give you and be happy!


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#97 Herve

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 06:30 AM

That sounds like a workable solution Herve, within the limits you mention.  Like mentioned in the Scotty thread, the Ctek isn't adjustable for individual battery specs, but you can set it for AGM or FLA.... Check what your battery spec sheet says it wants for absorb and float.  If it's close to what the Ctek puts out, use those 20A it will give you and be happy!

 

Great.

Just looked at the D250SA specs and both the float and absorption voltages are within specs of my batteries.

On the other hand, it says "Conventional alternator cut-in  >13.1V, for 5 sec".

Between the low voltage of the Tundra alternator and the wires voltage drop. I'll have to check that first! Installing my new Victron BMV 712 :)


Edited by Herve, 28 March 2018 - 06:30 AM.

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#98 radarcontact

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 02:55 AM

When I had the 1314a in my FWC it would engage and then immediately disengage when the house battery voltage was low and I had to charge the house batteries with either solar or shore power to get the voltage back up before I could get any charge from the alternator. I replaced it with an ACR and it will charge the house battery at a lower voltage, plus it allows my solar to charge the truck battery when the house battery is charged. I'm happy with the swap. FWIW

Which model ACR did you install?  I'm thinking about swapping out my 1314A for a Blue Sea 7611, not sure if that will allow solar charging of the truck/engine battery once the aux battery is fully charged.


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#99 PaulT

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 03:31 AM

Which model ACR did you install?  I'm thinking about swapping out my 1314A for a Blue Sea 7611, not sure if that will allow solar charging of the truck/engine battery once the aux battery is fully charged.

Unfortunately, Stalking Light has left this mortal coil, but post #29 on page 3 indicates that he installed the 7622.

 

"DrJ, I went ahead and got the BlueSea 7622. I'm assuming I can just cap off the switch wires if I want to install it without the switch and then install the switch later? I haven't decided yet where I want to locate the switch but would like to get the SurePower replaced before Expo East."

 

He and his magnificant photographs are sorely mised.

 

Paul


Edited by PaulT, 22 August 2019 - 03:34 AM.

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I thought getting old would take longer.

#100 radarcontact

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 03:35 AM

Unfortunately, Stalking Light has left this mortal plain, but post #29 on page 3 indicates that he installed the 7622.

 

"DrJ, I went ahead and got the BlueSea 7622. I'm assuming I can just cap off the switch wires if I want to install it without the switch and then install the switch later? I haven't decided yet where I want to locate the switch but would like to get the SurePower replaced before Expo East."

 

He and his magnificant photographs are sorely mised.

 

Paul

Thanks for letting me know, Paul.  Sorry to hear that....


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