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Hawk on 2nd Gen Tundra


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#1 fireball

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 10:25 PM

Hello all,

 

Surely this is posted somewhere so maybe someone can be kind enough to point me in the right direction.

 

I have a 2008 Tundra and will be picking up a 2014 Hawk in a few weeks.  I'm trying to find out what I will need to do with wiring and attachment points for the camper.

Thanks!
 


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#2 Lighthawk

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 11:28 PM

Welcome to WTW

 

Refer to the FWC website for attachment point locations.  You will want forged bolts.

Wiring is a three prong twist lock on my 08 Hawk.  My local RV shop installed a fused smart relay with an outlet in the sidewall of my 06 1st gen Tundra.

 

If you haven't addressed suspension and tires, you might start shopping for some E rated tires and consider airbags or beefed up leaf springs.  With those mods, the Tundra is quite capable with the Hawk on board.


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OEV Aluma 6.75 flatbed, Bundutec Odyssey camper on order for 2024

For this year we're still using our 2008 FWC Hawk with victron DC-DC charger, 130w solar, MPPT controler

with 2000w inverter and external 120v output and 12v solar input with 100w portable solar.   http://lighthawkphoto.com


#3 fireball

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 12:11 AM

Andy - thanks for the quick reply! 

The truck already has a new set of BFG KO2s, E-rated so we are all set in that department.

 

I had another poke around the FWC website and can't seem to find any details about the attachment locations or the needed wiring.  I am buying the unit used from a private party and would like to make sure my truck is ready to go so that I can ship it out to them and then have a little adventure with the family taking the long way home.


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#4 DYNOBOB

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 02:16 AM

Hey fireball,  I just went thru this exact exercise two months ago.  I had to sleuth out the measurements and get the anchors in before going across the country to pick up our Hawk.  Let me get you some dimensions tomorrow.  Regarding the wiring:  The prev owner gave me the female connector for the wiring that had been on his truck.  I cut a 2 1/8 hole in the bed wall and flushed it in like a fifth wheel setup.  Not sure about your 2014 but my 2010 uses a seven pin connector with round pins.  It looks/works like the common seven pin flat trailer connector but is not the same. 

 

Maybe these will help - click to enlarge.

 

20160221_170240.jpg~original

 

20160221_170257.jpg~original

 

20160221_170340.jpg~original

 

 

.


Edited by DYNOBOB, 20 April 2016 - 02:29 AM.

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#5 fireball

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 02:35 AM

Bob, very helpful, thanks so much!  I will take you up on the offer of exact measurements if you don't mind.

 

I found a spec sheet that looks to be a few years old that suggested the bolts would be located at 12" and 61" from the front of the bed.  Were the bolts anything special from FWC or just something you got at the local hardware store? 

 

Regarding the wiring, do I see your 7 pin connector at the right front of the bed area?   So I would then assume that the camper itself has a male pigtail hanging out of it?

 

Thanks again!


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#6 DYNOBOB

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 03:03 AM

12/61 sound familiar, I'll double check though.  I went to Rural King and got the forged eye bolts, 1/2" I believe.  I cut some 3" squares from 1/4" plate to use as backers under the truck bed.  That was prob overkill and 1/2" fender washers would have been sufficient. 

 

The plug was not installed in these pics.  It's in the front drivers side, between my onboard air and the wheel well (white X).  Yes, the camper has the male plug on about 3' of wire at the front drivers corner.

 

20160221_170340a.jpg~original

 

 

FWIW, I bought a 50' 10guage extension cord ($70) and cut what I needed to wire power/ground/parking lights from the truck bed plug to the battery.  I put a new connector on the remaining cord and have a 35' heavy duty shore power cable now.

 

.


Edited by DYNOBOB, 20 April 2016 - 03:14 AM.

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#7 K7MDL

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 03:04 AM

For a 2014 Hawk it could have a 3 wire Attwood plug molded onto the wire end.  You can cut it off to out any type of connector you need such as a Marinco 3-wire trolling motor plug, but you might want to call ahead and get the specs for the plug.  My 2013 came with the 3 wire Attwood trolling motor plug.  I ordered this matching receptacle

Link

I use #8 bolts, washers, and nuts as screws do not seem to withstand the substantial pulling and tugging that these friction connectors endure.  The 3 wires are marker lights, 12VDC and GND.  My  camper has LED marker lights that draw 0.5amps.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • Attwood Trolling Receptacle .jpg

Edited by K7MDL, 20 April 2016 - 03:13 AM.

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2022 FWC Hawk Silver Spur | Front Dinette | Cassette Toilet | Cooktop | Hot Water | Outside shower | CR850 fridge | 160W rooftop solar panel | 15A MPPT controller | Dual 90AH AGM batteries | Yakima Rack | 2 Maxxair fans | Furnace | Fiama side awning | Mechanical Jacks

 


#8 DYNOBOB

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 04:00 PM

fireball,  My anchors are at 12" and 60" from the front of the bed.  They are 58.5" apart side to side.  You have some leeway and I ended up making my decisions based on existing double wall areas under the bed.

 

Installed plug.

 

DSC09976.jpg~original


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#9 JHanson

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 04:58 PM

Fireball, Bob's information is excellent, but I respectfully disagree on the backing plate. I do not consider fender washers to be nearly sufficient backing; his three-inch square plates are much better. I don't think you could have plates that are too big; the more the load is spread the better. I also agree on the closed-eye forged bolts, and I suggest forged turnbuckles as well. 


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#10 Stan@FourWheel

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 10:55 PM

Camper Eye Bolt Locations for New Four Wheel Campers

(these are a general rule of thumb that we go by, but sometimes there are slight variables for certain trucks on the market)

 

These all should be correct measurements for new FWC's, but we cannot guarantee the accuracy with 100%, as there are some strange trucks out there we run into from time to time and we need to make adjustments on the fly.

 

IMPORTANT NOTE: Older four wheel campers WILL have DIFFERENT eye bolt measurements than what is posted here. The measurements above are pretty accurate for any new FWC manufactured in the past year or two.


Grandby Model:

Original Roll Over Couch Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 12” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 76” back from the front of the truck bed).

Side Dinette Seating Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 12” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 76” back from the front of the truck bed).

New Front Dinette Seating Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 11” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 74” back from the front of the truck bed).


Hawk Model:

Original Roll Over Couch Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 12” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 61” back from the front of the truck bed).

Side Dinette Seating Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 12” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 61” back from the front of the truck bed).

The newer Front Dinette Seating Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 11” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 58” back from the front of the truck bed).


Raven Model:

Roll Over Couch Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 12” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 51” back from the front of the truck bed).


Fleet Model:

Original Roll Over Couch Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 12” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 61” back from the front of the truck bed).

Side Dinette Seating Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 12” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 61” back from the front of the truck bed).

The newer Front Dinette Seating Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 10” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 57” back from the front of the truck bed).


Eagle Model:

Original Roll Over Couch Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 12” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 61” back from the front of the truck bed).

Side Dinette Seating Floor Plan = (front eye bolts 12” back from the front of the truck bed / rear eye bolts 61” back from the front of the truck bed).


Swift / Finch Models:

Original Roll Over Couch Floor Plan = Most ALL Finch Model camper installations require the camper to either be “bolted down” to the truck bed, or you can sometimes use the “External Camper Tie” downs if Tork-Lift makes a kit for their truck ?

The only exception to this usually … If the customer has a 2005 – 2016 Toyota Tacoma Standard Cab, Access cab, or the CrewCab with the LONG 6.0’ truck bed. If the customer is putting the Finch Model on the 2005 – 2014 Toyota Tacoma truck that has the LONGER 6.0’ bed, they can use the custom made FWC black steel Tacoma Bed Bars we sell for tying the camper down on the truck. Please call your factory rep. or the FWC service department for more information & details on this. These installations are not that hard, but they are different.


If in doubt, PLEASE CALL our service department (800) 242-1442.

We can help clarify any questions or concerns you might have.

Thank you.

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

Hello all,

 

Surely this is posted somewhere so maybe someone can be kind enough to point me in the right direction.

 

I have a 2008 Tundra and will be picking up a 2014 Hawk in a few weeks.  I'm trying to find out what I will need to do with wiring and attachment points for the camper.

Thanks!
 


Edited by Stan@FourWheel, 21 April 2016 - 10:56 PM.

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Stan Kennedy --- Four Wheel Pop-up Campers
1400 Churchill Downs Avenue, Suite A

Woodland, CA 95776
(800) 242-1442 or (530) 666-1442
www.fourwh.com  ---  e-mail = stan@fourwh.com





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