Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

65L Isotherm 2-way fridge questions


  • Please log in to reply
36 replies to this topic

#1 abqbw

abqbw

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 106 posts

Posted 11 June 2017 - 06:05 PM

I have new (Feb 2017) Hawk front dinette with a Isotherm 65L 2-way compressor refrigerator. Before this I had a Hawk shell model and used an ARB 50qt/47L fridge. The ARB seemed to be much more power efficient and seemed to cool better. I understand that by their very design front loaders are going to loose much more cold air air when you open them than the top loaders. But I am surprised by how much better the ARB performed than the Isotherm.

I am looking for tips on how I can use the isotherm 65L more efficiently and what I can realistically expect. This week it was very hot (high 90s) where I live and I turned the fridge on with a gallon block of ice in it to help it cool down. I ran it all day with just the ice block in it and it never got down to the mid 30 deg F I like to maintain. FWCs manual says the fridge should work at temps up to 113F. Once it was cool enough I loaded it very full with pre-chilled food and it continued to struggle to keep the temps below 40F. It was very hot outside (upper 90s) and about 95F in the camper. I opened and closed the door several times over a couple of hours loading it. My voltage never dropped below 12.5 V (per the zamp solar controller).

My questions:

1. Would it help if I installed an auxiliary fan in the vent space blowing on the compressor coils?

2. Does it hurt performance to "overstuff" the fridge ? I have read the fridge works better when full, but maybe I overdid it and killed all circulation hampering cooling performance...

3. Is this fridge just not capable of keeping the temp in the low 30s when it is in the upper 90s (in a dry desert climate). I try to park with the fridge and vents on the shady side of the camper but often it ends up on the sunny side.

4. When shore power is available will the fridge run better/worse/same on AC power as on 12V? My understanding is that the fridge just converts power to 12v anyway.

5. Is the temp dial a true thermostat? Will turning the temp dial colder than the 4.5 setting I use in cooler weather to maintain low 30s temps make a difference when it is hotter outside?

6. Would it be feasible to install some sort of pull up barrier vertically in the fridge to keep the cold air from spilling out every time the door is opened. Has anyone tried this?

7. Has anyone removed a built in front opening fridge and installed a top opening fridge in its space?
Any fridge tips would be greatly appreciated. I know fridges have been discussed at length on WTW but the search function did not lead me to answers..

Any fridge tips would be greatly appreciated !

Thank you!
Brandon

IMG_3069.JPG

Edited by abqbw, 11 June 2017 - 06:09 PM.

  • 0

#2 Timothy McGowen

Timothy McGowen

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 409 posts
  • LocationOceanside, CA

Posted 11 June 2017 - 06:45 PM

I have the 130L version in my 2016 front dinette Hawk.

 

Loading with pre-cooled food/beverage definitely helps and I believe you probably can overstuff the fridge restricting airflow. How much that is, I'm not sure.

 

I usually plug mine in the night before (for 12v recharge not on 110v) loaded with the pre-cooled beverages set to 6 or so to get a head start on cooling. I turn it to 4.5 to 5.5 after the first day. I have noticed that this works well. 

 

That being said, I have noticed that after several days, three or four, that the fridge and contents seem to reach a balance that is cooler than the first few days. With temperatures in the 90's it obviously puts more demand on the system and understandably runs more. The temperature also seems to creep up a few degrees as well.

 

Let me also say that I prefer very cold beverages and that is my measuring stick. The food temperatures remain very safe. Even the ice cream sandwiches in the freezer do OK.

 

I run this on 12volt only with a 160w solar panel on the roof as factory installed, no auxiliary fan. The nice thing is that usually when the temperatures are so high the sun is also generating lots of power.

 

Although I have had limited time with temperatures in the 90's so far, while in the 70's and 80's I can usually get mid 30's in the fridge and 4 degrees in the freezer. A $5 thermometer from Walmart really helped me understand what was actually happening.

 

This is my only experience with an RV refrigerator so take what I say with a squeeze of lime and a grain of salt.

 

Although my "research" is not complete I can share that storing certain beverages on their side on the rack below the freezer is very advantageous. Also in the 130L model the freezer with hold 7 twelve ounce cans. If the beverage is properly cooled in the fridge portion then given an extra 5-7 minutes in the freezer it comes out just about right, just saying - my research is not complete.


  • 0

2016 Ford F150 SuperCab 4X4 Lariat 2.7 EcoBoost Engine

2016 FWC Hawk Front Dinette Silver Spur


#3 TacoTruck

TacoTruck

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 33 posts
  • LocationCentral Valley California

Posted 11 June 2017 - 07:08 PM

I'm missing my ARB fridge also. The FWC salesman to me I would be happy Isotherm fridge. After spending a weekend in 90 plus degree temperatures, fridge running constantly and 160 watt panel never able to fully charge the dual batteries. I can say I'm not happy but willing to accept it. The ARB on a dual battery system could go a day maybe a day and a half with no solar before drawing voltage down to below 12v. I think ARB's are much better insulated.


  • 0

X Jeeper with off-road Teardrop

2017 Fleet, Silver Spur Complete Package
2009 Tacoma Access Cab 4WD V6 6-speed

 

 


#4 abqbw

abqbw

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 106 posts

Posted 11 June 2017 - 07:31 PM

I have the 130L version in my 2016 front dinette Hawk.

Loading with pre-cooled food/beverage definitely helps and I believe you probably can overstuff the fridge restricting airflow. How much that is, I'm not sure.

I usually plug mine in the night before (for 12v recharge not on 110v) loaded with the pre-cooled beverages set to 6 or so to get a head start on cooling. I turn it to 4.5 to 5.5 after the first day. I have noticed that this works well.

That being said, I have noticed that after several days, three or four, that the fridge and contents seem to reach a balance that is cooler than the first few days. With temperatures in the 90's it obviously puts more demand on the system and understandably runs more. The temperature also seems to creep up a few degrees as well.

Let me also say that I prefer very cold beverages and that is my measuring stick. The food temperatures remain very safe. Even the ice cream sandwiches in the freezer do OK.

I run this on 12volt only with a 160w solar panel on the roof as factory installed, no auxiliary fan. The nice thing is that usually when the temperatures are so high the sun is also generating lots of power.

Although I have had limited time with temperatures in the 90's so far, while in the 70's and 80's I can usually get mid 30's in the fridge and 4 degrees in the freezer. A $5 thermometer from Walmart really helped me understand what was actually happening.

This is my only experience with an RV refrigerator so take what I say with a squeeze of lime and a grain of salt.

Although my "research" is not complete I can share that storing certain beverages on their side on the rack below the freezer is very advantageous. Also in the 130L model the freezer with hold 7 twelve ounce cans. If the beverage is properly cooled in the fridge portion then given an extra 5-7 minutes in the freezer it comes out just about right, just saying - my research is not complete.


Thanks for the good info! My freezer does stay freezing. My ice cream bars stayed frozen pretty hard.
  • 0

#5 abqbw

abqbw

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 106 posts

Posted 11 June 2017 - 07:35 PM

I'm missing my ARB fridge also. The FWC salesman to me I would be happy Isotherm fridge. After spending a weekend in 90 plus degree temperatures, fridge running constantly and 160 watt panel never able to fully charge the dual batteries. I can say I'm not happy but willing to accept it. The ARB on a dual battery system could go a day maybe a day and a half with no solar before drawing voltage down to below 12v. I think ARB's are much better insulated.


I haven't had issues getting the batteries charged (2 ea 75ah AGMs) with the 160 W solar. But so far I think I have driven my truck every day. I'll keep an eye on it when it is solar only for a couple of days...
  • 1

#6 nikonron

nikonron

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 576 posts
  • Locationowensboro,ky

Posted 11 June 2017 - 08:06 PM

I still say Four Wheel campers should offer ARB or similar as an option for fridges. Love my ARB and could run 3 days without charging but I now have it on a 150 watt solar panel and a single AGM battery.   Ron


  • 0

#7 badtoytrd

badtoytrd

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 210 posts
  • LocationVA...for hopefully a short period of time...with WA on my mind

Posted 11 June 2017 - 08:55 PM

I switched to my ARB in a Fleet and couldn't be happier. Just sips on the amps
  • 0

2008 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab

2011 Four Wheel Campers Fleet

 

https://www.theadventuresofrubyd.com


#8 SeatoSea

SeatoSea

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 86 posts
  • LocationNorth Carolina

Posted 13 June 2017 - 10:12 PM

I agree with y'all. My isotherm door never shuts tightly, I've added a bunny lock to hold it closed tight. Pre cool everything. But my spouse served vodka tonic one night with ice, so I know I can make a cocktail once in awhile!
  • 0

#9 abqbw

abqbw

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 106 posts

Posted 24 June 2017 - 01:51 AM

After many days monitoring fridge temps I have concluded the isotherm fridge will not maintain below 40f in 95-100 temps.

I did find that two one gallon blocks of ice will last for several days and I can put things like lunch meat and mayo near the ice.

I also discovered that the performance of the fridge is greatly improved if you have it moderately full of pre-cooled items even if you don't ever open the door. I used a wireless thermometer to track temps. I thought having items in the fridge would only be helpful if the door was opened and the cold air spilled out. Charting temps empty and full without opening doors proved me wrong.

BTW- my fridge is the 85L, not the 65L as I originally posted.

Thanks for everyone's comments!

Brandon Wynn
Albuquerque
  • 0

#10 abqbw

abqbw

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 106 posts

Posted 14 July 2017 - 11:25 AM

After much testing my conclusion is that the isotherm fridge will not keep food safe (below 40F) in ambient temperatures above about 95-97 deg. Even when optimizing usage-(pre-cooled food), parking truck with outside vents out of direct sunlight, never opening fridge door. I monitored and recorded the temperature inside the fridge, inside the fridge vent space, and inside the camper for a couple of weeks using wireless thermometers. The fridge doesn't operate anywhere close to specs that are in the isotherm manual.

I am highly disappointed in both Four Wheel Campers' and Isotherm's inability or unwillingness to be honest or even slightly helpful in answering the very simple question of what ambient temperature will the fridge provide safe food cooling. One would think that the between the fridge manufacturer or FWC that installs them by the hundreds someone might know what to expect for performance.

I highly regret relying on published specifications in choosing a fridge for my brand new $26k plus camper. Absolutely unacceptable. Prior to my new Hawk front dinette with the isotherm 2-way 85L I had a Hawk shell model and used an ARB 50L top loader. The ARB blows the doors off the isotherm in terms of performance.

I am more disappointed in FWC and Isotherm than the fridge's performance. Both companies have been completely useless when it comes to technical support. I considered installing an auxiliary fan in the fridge vent space. There is a pair of loose wires in the vent space. I called FWC tech support and after 3 days of trying to just get ahold of them and finally succeeding and sending them pics of the wires they had no idea about what the wires are for. They built the damn camper 4 months ago and installed the wires but don't know anything about them? After one month the haven't answered.

Had I known the issues I was going to have I would have never wasted so much money on a built in fridge. If you plan on using a camper in the summer in the southwest I recommend that you look elsewhere for refrigeration options than what FWC can provide.
  • 0




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users