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80s Keystone - new canvas - 36" struts - can I gain more height? and other questions...


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#1 philos65

philos65

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 02:21 AM

I've got an 80s FWC Keystone.  The roof is off and stripped.  I am replacing the canvas as part of the rebuild.  I'm using 36" struts to help support 100 - 120  pounds./480 watts of solar panels and mounting/reinforcing channel, home made sliders to raise the panels, and so on.  there will likely be other necessary items I'll put up there.   

 

Struts - http://www.ebay.com/itm/160945323045

 

Solar Panels - https://www.batteryp...solar-rec240pe/

 

I measured the current lift panels - which are going in the trash  - and the distance from mounting point to mounting point is 32.5".  Does anyone know what the height of the roof can be using these struts?  Before I tore it apart, I had to slouch to walk around in the camper. 

 

I'll figure it out if no one else has the data. 

 

Also, I'd like to have more than an inch and a half of insulation in the roof.  Has anyone built a "dropped ceiling using usual foam and Great Stuff to fill the voids, and glued some sort of material to the foam?   

 

As part of doing this I'm wondering if I can add a 1" x 2" aluminum channel on top of the existing channel upon which the roof rests?  I'd "braze" rather than weld, even though the video below calls it welding. 

 

How to "Weld" Aluminum for Beginners - YouTube

 

How about adding 4" here?  thoughts???  If the lift struts limit how high the roof can be, is it possible to raise the cab edge??? 

 

One last question.  My roof has the 1/2" EMT bow the wrong way.  See the pic.  Can I twist the EMT?  I put a wrench on it and tried, but didn't want to force it if there was a weld hidden somewhere. 

 

Thanks!!!

 

Jeff Olson

Laramie, WY

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • roof image2.jpg

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2006 Dodge Ram 2500 HD, 4x4 with 80s FWC Keystone


#2 PokyBro

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 01:58 AM

Hi Jeff, congratulations on undertaking the renovation of your Keystone.

Thought I'd comment on a few of your questions.

1. I'm not sure how high you can actually go on your lift panels and still use 36" struts. It seems like I've seen some use 40" struts for the tallest lift panels, but they might be hard to find. Personally, before you scrap your current lift panels, you might want to keep them around for reference, because altering the height poses some challenges when it comes to the panels properly folding.

2. In reference to braising the aluminum square tube stock comprising the camper frame with the aluminum alloy braising rods, I tried it. What I learned is it's very different braising a couple of small pieces of aluminum held at the right angle when the puddle begins to flow, vs working with your camper frame. First there is significant greater heat transfer on large stock, so getting to that magical 700 degrees is very difficult with propane or even mapp gas, and not warping the very thin walls of this square tubing stock. I highly recommend finding a reasonable priced experienced tig welder to do it for you. I paid $50/ hr. Welding will give you greater strength in the long run, and less likelihood of cracks in the frame connections and joints down the road.

3. Regarding straightening the EMT pipe in your roof, it bends very easily. In the link below is how I did mine. It looks like your camper sustained roof damage from a heavy snow load. I placed the roof upside down on the ground with tarps underneath, put a 2x4 at each end, and by walking on each roof strut carefully, from the middle outward, I was able to re-arch my roof struts. I cant tell from the photo, your struts may be fine, but the EMT only is bent. Just put the 2x4s on the sides and straighten them carefully the same way.

http://www.wanderthe...e-a-hawk/page-7

4. To raise the height of the side walls, yes you can stack 1" tubes around the circumference, and weld them into place. I went two inches higher on the top, and two inches on the bottom where the floor pack attaches (this was needed for the cab-over to clear the truck cab), giving me four inches of increased height overall. I found a metal supplier carried the aluminum stock, and I used a cut off saw to cut everything to length, and then used L-brackets to hold everything in place until it went to the weld shop.

Hope that helps a bit. Good luck!

Poky
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1981 Grandby shortened to a Hawk

Build thread / https://www.wanderth...by-into-a-hawk/

 


#3 philos65

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 03:13 PM

Hi Poky - thanks for your insights.  Luckily I'm trashing the lift panels and using EMT along the long sides. A previous owner fabricated his own lift panels with no hinge in the middle.    Maybe it's me, but it seems  the FWC lift panel concept is pretty quirky.   I think what'll work is once the roof is done, I'll put it back on, install the struts, and build the lift mechanism.  Then I'll attach the vinyl/canvas.  

 

After reading your experience with braising I think I'll just let well enough alone.  Nothing seems out of kilter, and I think I can get a couple inches using gas struts and an EMT lift mechamism.   

 

I'm glad I can just bend the EMT in the roof.   I think the fore/aft aluminum struts have flattened a bit - will do the EMT first to see if that helps. 

 

Again, thanks for your perspective. 

 

Jeff

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  • lift panel.jpg

Edited by philos65, 19 July 2017 - 03:18 PM.

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2006 Dodge Ram 2500 HD, 4x4 with 80s FWC Keystone


#4 DocFMF

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 06:17 AM

Sorry. I can't find how to wire the taillights of an 80s Keystone to a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500. Do you happen to have a wiring diagram?  Thank you.


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