43 replies to this topic

[Captm]

I still do not understand why FWC install "duel purpose batteries" in their campers.  IMHO your batteries are not being fully and correctly charged.  The Tacoma alternator will put out enough voltage and amps to charge an agm battery, but it will take time, depending on the amount of discharge.   The guage of wire between the start battery, acr, and house battery makes a difference in what the house battery will actually receive reguarding charge.  The arc can be set to a low open of 12.25 if so desired.

Your solar, depending on the set up will fully recharge your batteries.  Remember "between 102% and 110% of the discharged ampere-hours must be returned for a full recharge" (http://lifelinebatte...ical-Manual.pdf )

As others have said you need a monitor to properly track your charging such as a Trimetric or Victron.

I would also add that the Blue Sea ARC that is a better fit would be the https://www.bluesea....l_-_12V_DC_500A but that's just my opinion based on my professional experiance.

Cheers,

Tim

 

[VanGoOutdoors]

I have a 100 watt panel right now.  I will be upping to a 300 watt system, which should provide more than enough in the florida sun

[Esus]

I have a 100 watt panel right now.  I will be upping to a 300 watt system, which should provide more than enough in the florida sun

 

300 should be plenty anywhere, but I would note that Florida sun/solar suffers from low elevation, humidity, and heat

[nikonron]

300 watts won't help you at night, 150 should be more than enough solar power for your battery bank. I wouldn't think that you are drawing much off of the bank during the day. And like CaptnM said, the Tacoma will not properly and fully charge an AGM  battery. I ruined 2 Sears AGM's before I got solar and solved all my issues.  Ron

[bfh4n]

Trying to understand state-of-charge from voltage readings alone is difficult. I recommend that you install a monitoring system, like TriMetric, that keeps track of and displays state-of-charge. If you do, I'm pretty sure you will discover that you don't have a problem.

 

I will say, once again, that the FWC scheme for charging a camper battery from a truck alternator by just hooking them together and hoping something happens will probably usually not result in much charging. Get a CTEK. With my TriMetric, I routinely see significant amperage (up to 20 Amps) going into the camper batteries at 14.2 Volts from the truck battery at 13.6 Volts. That can't happen if they are just hooked together!

 

- Bernard

[Stalking Light]

I live in GA and the haze and humidity make the solar less efficient and the fridge run harder. I have 300w on top and it is just about right for me.

[Vic Harder]

Wow, hot topic!  Pun intended 

 

Monitoring is crucial.  Your frustration is understandable given that it makes no sense, yet.

 

150AH is a goodly amount for what you have said you are loading it with. The guidelines for PV arrays is that they should have 2x the power that you are charging up, so 300w PV is a good number to aim for.  That said, I have 220AH of battery and 265W of solar on the roof.  The other day I noticed the camper batteries were down to 80% after a few days of camping in the shade.  I moved into the sun at 3pm and by nightfall (first time I checked again) the batteries were at 100%.  

 

The big problem with the battery separators and camper connection to the alternator is the wire size and resulting voltage drop.  That's why Bernard likes his CTEK, and I put in 2g wire between my starting and camper battery arrays.

 

I've seen upwards of 70A going over that connection for 10 minutes or so before it drops down again.  That would easily exceed max 32A allowed  on your typical 14g trailer wiring.  Plus which the ACR will sense the voltage drop and interpret that as meaning the source voltage is too low and disconnect the alternator just when you need it most.  If you listen for it, you might here a click/click every few seconds as the VSR connects and disconnects.

 

I use this ACR as it give me manual control from the cab of my truck - and I can connect/disconnect at will.  

 

From the monitoring I have been doing, when the batteries are almost fully charged I see 13.78v at the camper batteries.  Once charged and "settled" overnight, that looks more like 12.8v at full charge.

 

I set my "low voltage alarm" in my Victron BV-702 for 12.2V, or approx 50% charge.  I have yet to get anywhere close to that.

[VanGoOutdoors]

So, to augment this, i forgot that i have an inverter plug in the truck bed

 

Decided to disconnect the camper, lift it, plug in an extension cord, run it to the other side, and put it in the nook next to the aft turnbuckle.   With the 1000 watt selected, charges the camper via shore power perfectly.  

Sooooo.  With 300 watts of solar, battery and the truck itself.  Dont think I have any issues now 

[MattC]

So, to augment this, i forgot that i have an inverter plug in the truck bed

 

Decided to disconnect the camper, lift it, plug in an extension cord, run it to the other side, and put it in the nook next to the aft turnbuckle.   With the 1000 watt selected, charges the camper via shore power perfectly.  

Sooooo.  With 300 watts of solar, battery and the truck itself.  Dont think I have any issues now 

So am I understanding this correctly, you are getting a high voltage charge from using the inverter in the bed (hooked to the shore power plug) than just the regular charging set up from the wires ran to the trucks batt?

 

Trying learn what's up, as I get my new fleet in a couple weeks, going on a 2011 Tacoma 

[Vic Harder]

So am I understanding this correctly, you are getting a high voltage charge from using the inverter in the bed (hooked to the shore power plug) than just the regular charging set up from the wires ran to the trucks batt?

 

Trying learn what's up, as I get my new fleet in a couple weeks, going on a 2011 Tacoma 

 

 

So, to augment this, i forgot that i have an inverter plug in the truck bed

 

Decided to disconnect the camper, lift it, plug in an extension cord, run it to the other side, and put it in the nook next to the aft turnbuckle.   With the 1000 watt selected, charges the camper via shore power perfectly.  

Sooooo.  With 300 watts of solar, battery and the truck itself.  Dont think I have any issues now 

 

I'd like to understand that too.  I'm thinking the key is knowing what this inverter plug in the truck bed is powered by.  As it sounds now I am am envisioning an battery pack being charged by solar on the roof, then those batteries running the inverter to create 120v, which is then plugged into a battery charger that is charging the same batteries that are running the inverter.

 

That can't be right, so....