Battery Isolator: Noob Question
#11
Posted 29 April 2019 - 07:04 PM
I have not installed a second battery under the hood (yet) and in the interest of keeping the truck as a truck (using the bed to transport building materials, hay, etc), I bought an ArkPak 730 with a 105ah marine battery inside. I also purchased a Lance Camper power “pigtail” to properly connect to their proprietary power port that had been installed in the front of the truck bed. It’s controlled by a simple separator under the hood. It has 8awg power/ground leads with ring terminals which will connect to the ArkPak terminals. Should I install a fuse in that pigtail before attaching to the ArkPak? Additionally, I’m adding 100 watts of solar through a 30 amp controller. Should I fuse that line prior to connecting to the ArkPak? If the answer is yes to either/both questions, can you recommend an in-line fuse that is appropriate for the “portable” nature of this setup? I have a Northern Nevada desert trip coming up and want to power my ARB fridge.
Thanks in advance for the wisdom of the tribe.
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, lightly lifted, ARB bumper/Warn winch, BFG AT/KO2, Snugtop shell. SOLD! But not forgotten!
2002 Chevy 2500HD XC LB 6.0L 4X4, Leer Hi-Rise shell, completely stock...for now!
#12
Posted 30 April 2019 - 04:11 AM
I had to go look up what an ArkPak is. I'm not seeing the benefit, but that's neither here nor there. Any time you pull power off of any battery you should run that thru a fuse or a breaker. That is to say that there should be circuit protection at both batteries.
I'm a fan of manual reset breakers. I use the 285 series for most of my projects. Can use them as a switch to turn off the circuit (Both of them or the circuit is still live!) when you need to work on that system etc.
https://www.delcity....N-Manual-Reset-(Switchable),-Surface-Mount/p_823674.h_821984
As to adding circuit protection to the solar system, I see that as a judgement call. Yes, there is power there, so there should be some circuit protection. However, the circuit is not capable of the kind of discharge that a battery is, so what is prudent?
Right or wrong on our last camper I connected the solar charge controller's output to the camper battery side of the breaker. Some argue for circuit protection in the feed from the panel. I didn't do that, but I can't fault the idea.
Where does that road go?
#13
Posted 30 April 2019 - 09:44 PM
Following on your fusing location advice, I went back out to the truck to check on something. Sure enough, right next to the simple separator on the firewall is a 2-pole breaker, I’m assuming it’s self re-setting. The Lance manual (originally on the truck re: post #1) called for the separator and breaker to be mounted in the camper but for whatever reason there they are under the hood. And, there is a mega-fuse between the truck battery and the separator. So already “fused” close to the truck battery as you suggested. I’m going to use an inline 40 amp maxi-fuse at the ArkPak...that’s the amperage Lance called for in the manual. Installed at the end of the pigtail before connection to the ArkPak, I’m hoping this is sufficient. In addition, I’m going to fuse from the solar controller to the battery with a 30-amp inline fuse. You mentioned having not fused from the panel to the controller and I’m going to follow suit. Deeper research showed less than 10 amps of fuse is suggested so I’m not going to bother. BTW: I wasn't having any luck with my previous research until your response prompted me in the right direction...thanks!
As to why the ArkPak: in the past I used an aux battery in a basic plastic (flimsy) battery box. No fuses, wires running everywhere, no power ports, no inverter, etc. I’m aware that I could build something from my own design but that requires buying all the assorted parts mentioned and putting them together. Doable, but the ArkPak is sturdier and allows me to charge in any vehicle with the “BCDC” plug. On long trips in the wife’s Suburban, the fridge would occasionally blow a fuse due to the small gauge wire running to the back power port. The ArkPak draws power more slowly so no shut offs, fridge runs off separate aux battery, and it’s easier to move around. For right now, this setup works for what we need in several environments. But noted, comparatively pricey next to other solutions. I knew that going in. Thanks again for helping me get my head around this and the subsequent needed research...meaning shopping. LOL
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, lightly lifted, ARB bumper/Warn winch, BFG AT/KO2, Snugtop shell. SOLD! But not forgotten!
2002 Chevy 2500HD XC LB 6.0L 4X4, Leer Hi-Rise shell, completely stock...for now!
#14
Posted 30 April 2019 - 10:57 PM
I had to go look up what an ArkPak is. I'm not seeing the benefit, but that's neither here nor there. Any time you pull power off of any battery you should run that thru a fuse or a breaker. That is to say that there should be circuit protection at both batteries.
I'm a fan of manual reset breakers. I use the 285 series for most of my projects. Can use them as a switch to turn off the circuit (Both of them or the circuit is still live!) when you need to work on that system etc.
https://www.delcity....N-Manual-Reset-(Switchable),-Surface-Mount/p_823674.h_821984
As to adding circuit protection to the solar system, I see that as a judgement call. Yes, there is power there, so there should be some circuit protection. However, the circuit is not capable of the kind of discharge that a battery is, so what is prudent?
Right or wrong on our last camper I connected the solar charge controller's output to the camper battery side of the breaker. Some argue for circuit protection in the feed from the panel. I didn't do that, but I can't fault the idea.
Handy when you're trying find a short. Reminds me of a project I was (maybe still am) going to do. I got a bunch of circuit breakers at an aircraft wrecker a long time ago.
Craig K6JGV_________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5
#15
Posted 02 May 2019 - 12:33 PM
OK, Now I see why the ArkPak and your logic behind it makes sense to me.
If I had a large amount of solar power I would fuse or breaker it near the panels. For the systems I've had so far (100W & 160W) coupled with the knowledge that neither produces it's max amperage due to how they're mounted it just doesn't seem necessary.
Where does that road go?
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