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Refurbishing 1993 Dodge Ram W250 1st Gen Diesel - Seeking Advice (status update)


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#11 slus

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 07:20 PM

Awesome project. I've seen pictures of your truck before, but I'd like to see some more as you're fixing it up. 

 

The old diesels are great. If I didn't absolutely need a crew cab for my big, old dogs that we take everywhere, your exact truck would be at the top of my list. My old crew cab 7.3 F350 will have to get me by until I have the time to find one of those super rare 1st gen Dodge crew cabs to fix up, repaint white, and Cummins swap. There is actually a few of them around my area, all faded blue, which leads me to believe they are ex-USAF rigs sold off from nearby Beale AFB. 

 

You're right about the newer diesels, I also have a new MegaCab Cummins. It has none of the character and much much more to fail than the old trucks. Nice rig, tows great, just nothing like the old rigs. I'd camp out at the dealer to buy a simple bare bones mechanical diesel truck with crank windows, vinyl floors and manual locks, lots of us would, but emissions regs will never let it happen. So good choice refurbishing what you have. 


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#12 ckent323

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 01:45 AM

I have some pictures of the various parts of the project I need to transfer over from my phone.  

 

As soon as I get a little more time I will post them.

 

I am presently installing the sound damping material on the floor of the truck cab and the cargo box mod is coming along nicely.   


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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#13 wagoneer

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 06:47 PM

I had a choice when I bought the 1995 2500 cummins for 7K US with a free Six-Pac cabove and 98k miles r he also had a 1992 with 52k original miles for 7k US. I went for comfort. the 92 was very uncomfortable, I am an old F%%k


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1995 Dodge Ram diesel 1976 CO 8 Ft. Alaskan Camper


#14 wagoneer

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 06:53 PM

2nd gen has the KDP better known as the "killer dowel pin" got that done asap it was 1/8" out.


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#15 ckent323

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Posted 01 August 2018 - 11:08 PM

Before adding the sound damping material I made several rips around town and on the freeway using an App on my iphone to measure noise levels.

 

 

Unmodified:

At idle windows up -  71 - 72 db

Around town normal driving.  Up to 85 db

on freeway 55 mph 86 - 87 db

on freeway 75 mph ~90 db average with short term spikes up to 100 db

 

 

With the sound damping from Sound Deadener Showdown material installed in the cab roof I saw no noticeable decrease.  My guess is a 1 or 2 db change would be lost in the overall loud noise of the truck that was averaging 90 db at freeway speeds.

 

 

After adding sound damping material on floor and back wall (along with the ceiling) the noise at idle is about the same as unmodified but at 55 mph it is 81 - 82 db

at 75 mph it is about 86 db.

 

That is significant.  It is quieter by about 4 db although it does not seem half as loud.  That is is consistent with the observation that 3db doubles the sound intensity but a 10dB increase is required before a sound is perceived to be twice as loud (or inversely a -3db change is half the sound intensity but a -10db change is required for it to seem half as loud).

 

I am hoping that after installing sound damping material in the doors and extended cab sides I will have the sound level at 75 mph down to 82 or 83 db.  

 

If I cannot get to at least 82 db then I will also add sound damping material under the hood.  There is a factory sound damping mat attached to the hood but I am not sure how good it is.   

 

My overall goal is to get the noise level at or below 80 db in the cab even at 75 mph.


Edited by ckent323, 01 August 2018 - 11:14 PM.

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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#16 ckent323

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Posted 01 August 2018 - 11:11 PM

Recaro Expert M or Perhaps Othopaed electric seats (or Scheel- Mann Vario Seats) are on my list of mods to improve ride comfort.

 

Still not sure which way I will go with suspension improvement.  Probably reservoir shocks like Bilstein 700 series and new elastomeric bushings for the leaf springs.  Because I go off road with the camper I have no interest in air bags that can and do fail (based on reading a lot of reviews).


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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#17 Vic Harder

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 06:26 PM

Before adding the sound damping material I made several rips around town and on the freeway using an App on my iphone to measure noise levels.

 

 

Unmodified:

At idle windows up -  71 - 72 db

Around town normal driving.  Up to 85 db

on freeway 55 mph 86 - 87 db

on freeway 75 mph ~90 db average with short term spikes up to 100 db

 

 

With the sound damping from Sound Deadener Showdown material installed in the cab roof I saw no noticeable decrease.  My guess is a 1 or 2 db change would be lost in the overall loud noise of the truck that was averaging 90 db at freeway speeds.

 

 

After adding sound damping material on floor and back wall (along with the ceiling) the noise at idle is about the same as unmodified but at 55 mph it is 81 - 82 db

at 75 mph it is about 86 db.

 

That is significant.  It is quieter by about 4 db although it does not seem half as loud.  That is is consistent with the observation that 3db doubles the sound intensity but a 10dB increase is required before a sound is perceived to be twice as loud (or inversely a -3db change is half the sound intensity but a -10db change is required for it to seem half as loud).

 

I am hoping that after installing sound damping material in the doors and extended cab sides I will have the sound level at 75 mph down to 82 or 83 db.  

 

If I cannot get to at least 82 db then I will also add sound damping material under the hood.  There is a factory sound damping mat attached to the hood but I am not sure how good it is.   

 

My overall goal is to get the noise level at or below 80 db in the cab even at 75 mph.

That's a great report Kent.  And a worthy project.  I may have to do the same.  Do you have a wind blocker/fairing yet?  I am amazed at the sound level difference.  Which app on you iPhone?  I have a real dB meter, but I'd have to be looking at it while driving to get good readings... does your app create a graph?  A or C weighted?


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#18 ckent323

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 03:47 AM

Vic,

 

I have two different sound level apps on my phone.  Decibel x and Decibels.  They seem to give equivalent results.  Decibels uses a simulated analog meter display. It is basic.

 

Decibel x has avg, instantaneous and max db levels as well as a simulated analog meter,  It also has a histogram of the noise.  It has some settings for frequency weighting (A, B, C, Z), response time, speed, graphing options, etc  There is a calibration setting and a history log

 

Decibel x is my go to sound level app.  I have been using Z weighting for my measurements.

 

I do not have a wind fairing - yet.  Hoping to get one on soon.

 

 

Presently working on multiple projects simultaneously prepping for our departure for Anchorage, AK on Aug 22.  Some of the mods such as the suspension improvements will not be started/completed in time for this trip.  This will be an on pavement trip.

 

Route North will be via Vancouver, BC - Sea to Sky hwy to Stewart- Cassiar to TOK to Anchorage then return via Alcan HWY via Jasper, Banff,  Glacier.

 

We are towing a 16 foot long Wells Cargo enclosed trailer with two railroad track inspection cars (one is mine the other belongs to a friend who will be driving up in his 93 Dodge W250 truck with 1984 Keystone) we will be operating the cars on the entire length of the Alaska railroad.

 

The trip is listed under excursion calendar - future excurasions here:

 

http://www.narcoa.org/

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Craig


Edited by ckent323, 03 August 2018 - 08:15 PM.

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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#19 ntsqd

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 04:11 AM

I would stay with rubber bushings in the springs. Urethane either squeaks now or it will eventually. It is usually higher durometer than rubber as well.

 

If the ultimate ride is desired I'd have a look at an air ride base for whatever seat you choose.

 

Leaf springs can be supple, but it takes significant effort to reduce their internal friction to make them so.

 

In Bilstein 7100's there are technically 3 versions. The std version, the remote reservoir version, and the short body remote reservoir version. The latter is not available in all stroke lengths.

In the 516X series there may be a damper tuned specifically to fit your truck. That is what we have on our '95 and I like them. They just work, and I've pushed them pretty hard at times. The only time I've ever felt them start to go away with heat was bailing out of Hole in the Rock on a deadline.


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#20 ckent323

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 05:12 AM

ntsqd,

 

Thanks - I appreciate the input.  I don't know much about suspensions. 

 

All I know is that it would be nice to be able to smooth out the ride in the 93 Dodge a bit.  That would make Wendie happier.  ;-)

 

The suspension upgrades are going to happen after we return from Alaska,  I am already worried the custom cargo bed for the truck is not going to be ready in time - fingers crossed though but it is going to be close.


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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone





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