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Refurbishing 1993 Dodge Ram W250 1st Gen Diesel - Seeking Advice (status update)


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#21 ntsqd

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 01:43 AM

My friend to whom I go with all questions specifically Cummins-Dodge had a 1st Gen Std. Cab that he had Deaver build a set of springs for, but he never got rid of the Rancho's that came on the truck. The plan was a set of 7100's. He sold it before that could happen  because suddenly he need room for a tricycle motor. I've long felt that was a missed opportunity.

 

Hot-rodders for years have been putting a low friction liner between the leaves of leaf springs to make the springs more supple & ride better. GM did them one or more better by putting shims between the leaves in the region of the U-Bolts and low friction tip sliders on the tips of each leaf thereby creating an air gap between the leaves for most of their length. Air is frictionless so a lot of the internal friction in a leaf spring was lost just by that act.

 

The internal friction in a leaf spring also acts a bit to dampen the spring. Reducing the friction in the spring requires an increase in damping rates. It is a sure way to tell that you've reduced the internal friction. Bilstein rates their damper shim stacks by Newton-Meters of force required to move the damper's shaft at some specific velocity. Normal Bilstein valve shims for leaf springs are 255/70 (Rebound/Jounce). Moving to the GM springs required going to Bilstein's 275/78 shim stack to regain proper damping.

 

I mention all of this because I think that if you can find a spring mfg willing to make your some springs with tip sliders and air-gap shims that it will be well worth the effort; and also that if you do succeed in that that the std valving in a 5100 or 7100 will be a bit light. It is possible to order the dampers with any of their catalog damping rates. The set that I've ordered that way took a little longer to get, but didn't cost any different.

 


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#22 12valve

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 04:40 PM

If you reeeeeeeeealy want to make your 1st gen freeway worthy, get a Gear Vendors Overdrive. Pricy, but well worth it! For 10 years I had a '96 that I modified a lot to make it a camping expedition truck. I sold it and not have a '05 and am much much happier. The GV lets me cruise @1550 rpm @75, making the long drives so much better. Without question I would get a fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge and boost gauge. A lot of information is at your fingertips with these installed. I would get a remote fuel filter/water separator system too. Even though the 1st and 2ed gen trucks are far more forgiving than the 3 gen+ trucks, clean fuel never hurt. Remote reservoir shocks are better than straight barrel, the larger the diameter, the better. If you do not have a LSD rear or front differential, the Dana Powerlok is a very good one. For the record, I have a Dana Trac-Lok for the front end Dana 60 for sale. For me, Mario Andretti sums it up perfectly, "There is no substitute for horsepower". I agree. Stock, the older trucks are dogs, since the 1st and 2ed gen trucks are mechanical engines, lots to play with the wake up the engine and make the truck more fun to drive. No worries about the drivetrain. Good luck, have fun, can't wait to see the final result. 


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2005 Reg Cab Dodge Diesel 4x4 6sp, far, far from stock. Gutted 4 wheel camper pop up, now a shell that rests on the bed rails. Rebuilt the interior, much simpler, far more user friendly.   Much better. 


#23 ckent323

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Posted 03 December 2018 - 09:14 PM

Post trip update on the truck and camper.

 

The cargo bed mod was not completed in time to put it on for the trip (and it got set aside during my absence). I was really bummed by that and it would have been very nice to have it - oh well.   The cargo bed mod is back in the queue at the shop and should be complete around the end of the year.  The side boxes are in and the bed sides fold down but there is clean up and paint to be done yet.  I will post pictures upon completion.

 

I was not able to replace the OEM seats before we left on the trip.  I was able to get the broken driver seat frame welded and a repair made to the fabric.  However, the recline ratchet wheel on the passenger seat failed on the trip and now the recline on both seats are broken.  While these may be repairable (the ratchet wheel is welded on) these seats are 25 years old and tired.  Leaning towards Scheel-Mann Vario seats as replacements (unless I can find a good deal on Recaro Expert M or Recaro Orthoped seats).

 

I did install a 4-hole dash mount gauge pod with ISSPRO EGT, Turbo and Fuel Pressure gauges.  I will add an ISSPRO transmission temp gauge before the next trip. (already had an ISSPRO Tach).  I was nice to have these and in particular being able to see when it was time to down shift (climbing EGTs) when pulling the loaded trailer up the grades.

 

The sound damping I put on the floor, ceiling and back wall of the truck cab worked great and I will be adding sound damping material under the hood and the doors soon.

 

I added two USB outlets to the passenger side of the cab area and I added two USB outlets and a 12V cigarette style outlet to the extended cab behind the driver seat.  We were able to plug in and charge two phones, time lapse camera and 12V Dometic refrigerator simultaneously whiole driving.  Nice additions.

 

The Dometic CFX-35 refrigerator fit behind the center console (barely) and worked great!  No more messing with ice.

I bought a Brinno TLC-200 Pro time lapse camera and mounted it low on the dash (does not obscure any view of the road - only my view of the top of the hood).   I really like it and it worked great and is easy to use.   We continuously recorded 720p images every second for the entire trip.  It has a removable SD card which swapped out once a day and used to transfer the files to a portable 4TB hard drive connected to my laptop.  I was able to get 10 hours of nearly continuous recording onto a single 32 GB SD card.

 

I built some removable shelves behind the seats in the cab and while handy for storing things - without a third door it is a PITA to get stuff out from under the shelves.  I am planning to modify the shelves to have a hinge so we can pull stuff of the shelf and lift them up to get at the crates we use beneath the shelves to hold stuff (maps, books, binoculars, tire chains, jumper cables, etc).

 

The hard wired backup camera i added to the truck makes connecting the trailer easy for me without any help.  It came with an "over the rear view mirror" monitor that works well and has input for a second camera.  However, I did not get the wireless backup camera I bought to put on the trailer installed and while backing the trailer a couple of times on the trip

I wished I had gotten it installed .  Installing the trailer backup camera is on my to do list this month.

 

I wired in a Blue Sea ML-ACR relay and installed the overide switch in the dash of my truck but still have never engaged it.

 

I installed a RAM Mount RAM-VB-181-SW1  Vertical Dual Arm Laptop platform to the passenger side of the center console.  I bought both a laptop as well as a tablet holder to attache to it.  Wendie would up using the tablet mount like a desk which could be swiveled out of the way.  It gave her a surface to lay out the Milepost or a map or set her phone on.  She rarely used it with either the tablet or the laptop but could have easily.  It was a good addition for her.

 

I already had an Arkon flexible mount in the truck to hold my iphone at dash height above the shift lever and I love it.  I can put up a driving map and be able to see the map.

 

The 200 W of solar on the camper with the Victron controller and the Concord 110 A 6V (two) battery bank worked great.  We always had charged batteries.  That written we did not experience multiple days without driving and no Sun.  In fact we were very fortunate to have only about 4 days of rain during the entire 45 day trip.

 

I installed a dual USB outlet in place of the one of the two OEM 12V cigarette outlets in the camper.  That was a good mod.   I also bought a low cost plastic 4 drawer unit and using a couple of pieces of plywood to stiffen it up fastened it into the passenger rear of the camper (where the cassette toilet and shower would be - but this Keystone did not have that option installed).  We each got two drawers for clothes.  That was a really nice mod!

We will probably take another big trip in 2019 so I am pushing forward with completing more mods and upgrades from my list as well as new paint on the truck (to match the new cargo bed) by Spring of 2019.

 

 

Craig


Edited by ckent323, 03 December 2018 - 09:36 PM.

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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#24 Vic Harder

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Posted 03 December 2018 - 11:46 PM

thanks for all those updates Craig!  You are inspiring me to do some of those mods to my truck/camper.


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#25 ntsqd

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 03:22 AM

Sounds like a great trip!

 

Interesting parallels here. In trade for long term storing a VW Bug for John Thawley (aborted Baja Bug build mag article) I was given an ARB Fridge that was a magazine article demo piece. On some trips with it in the past it seemed to work well and on others not so well. I am thinking to replace the front-center console/seat with it if it proves to consistently work well. Since doing that will cause the loss of the Geno's cup holder thingy I'll have to build around it a bit to gain back some of the lost functionality. Fortunately it is narrower than the console/seat (that we've never used as a seat).

 

Some bulky things have ended up in the cab because there is nowhere else to store them out of the weather. I'm looking for a used low side-wall utility bed and will have it painted to match the cab (white w/ silver band).

 

I had to add a small inverter to power the nav netbook (reliable DC-DC converters were a LOT more spendy at the time!). I'm about to move to a iPad for nav functions and I'm thinking to set the inverter up with some convenient 120 VAC outlets in the cab for charging some things that can't easily be run from the several USB and Power ports that I've already added.


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#26 Vic Harder

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 04:02 AM

Craig,  I found this article on sound deadening a 1st gen Cummins.  Is this what you did?

 

 

And this is the company and products they referenced.

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/


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#27 ckent323

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 06:29 AM

Hi Vic,

 

Yup!  That is the stuff and I did pretty much the same thing as shown in the video.  I have not done the door panels yet.  Putting the sound damping on the floor and up under the dash as far as I could go along with the back wall seemed to make the most difference so far.

 

The molded headliner was a bugger to put back in without damaging it!  It took two of us and a lot of patience.  I had to trim away a lot of the white hydophobic melamine foam (HMF) from the perimeter of the ceiling to make room for the molded panel to fit back in.

 

I also put in new molded carpet.   Results were similar as I also got a slightly more than 4 db reduction in noise.

 

I also used a couple of awls to make holes and help with alignment.  I bought a couple of hollow steel hole punches as well to punch nice holes in the new carpet for all the seat belt bolts and trim screws.

 

I think the hood may be a big hitter.   A lot of the noise if from the mechanical fuel injection pump and the valves so doing a better job of sound damping the hood over stock help.

I did all the work except the headliner by myself.  It is all best done with two people.  The mass loaded vinyl is heavy and a bit awkward to work with.  Putting the molded carpet down and getting it into position by myself was also hard.

The cost for all the materials with shipping was around $800 but it really makes a difference. 

 

Note:  I ran out of CLD tiles too and I recommend buying 10% extra when doing an entire cab.

 

 

Important recollection:  The sound coming up through the floor around the manual trans and transfer case holes was significant so I cut the sound damping material to make slots for the shift levers rather than big cut outs like those in the floor pan.  This made a big difference to what I was hearing before and after (no actual measurements here).


Edited by ckent323, 04 December 2018 - 05:06 PM.

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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#28 Mighty Dodge Ram

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 04:43 PM

“Since doing that will cause the loss of the Geno's cup holder thingy I'll have to build around it a bit to gain back some of the lost functionality.”

That’s a bummer! That may have been my favorite mod in my ‘96 Dodge. OEM cup holder was the WORST DESIGN EVER.

End of hijack. ✌️

Edited by Mighty Dodge Ram, 04 December 2018 - 04:44 PM.

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Richard
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, lightly lifted, ARB bumper/Warn winch, BFG AT/KO2, Snugtop shell. SOLD! But not forgotten!
2002 Chevy 2500HD XC LB 6.0L 4X4, Leer Hi-Rise shell, completely stock...for now!

#29 Vic Harder

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 07:49 PM

About those CLD tiles.  They are essentially similar to Dynamat, no?  Just cut into chunks rather than be on a roll?


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#30 ckent323

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Posted 05 December 2018 - 02:27 AM

Vic,

 

Don Sambrook (owner of Sound Deadener Showdown designed the CLD tiles.  To the best of my knowledge that are a made of an adhesive layer a vibration damping butyl compound layer and faced with 8 mil aluminum.  The CLD material can also be purchased in sheet form.

See the details here:  
https://www.sounddea...wn.com/products

 

I have read a lot of blogs on testing of various sound damping materials and brands as well as about Don's expertise.  The Sound Deadener Showdown approach seems to compare well or exceed the performance of other competitors products including Dynamat,  I think it is cheaper too.

Do a web search on him and seek out the comparison testing posted on some of the auto stereo forums.  I will see if I can recover some of those links and post them.

 


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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone





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