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Shell Owners- 12V fridge or nice ice cooler


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#31 JaSAn

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 07:32 PM

I have a Dometic in my 2012 Fleet with 200 w of solar.  In temps of 70 - low 80's, this works fine.  But on a 100 degree summer day, the fridge can not adequately cool to be safe for food, even while plugged-in sitting on my driveway.  

 

You might want to check if you have Dometic's specified venting.  I have an ancient Norcold that would not hold temperature over 70º ambient when I got the camper.  Increasing the external vents to Norcold's specification and adding an exhaust fan cured that problem.  Refrigerator has* kept 33º - 38º inside temperatures well into the 90's (and on the couple of 100º days we had).

 

*Refrigerator is being replaced because that is no longer true, probably because of lost refrigerant and a warped door (it's 35 years old).

 

jim


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#32 philos65

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 01:10 AM

I just had a MRI and have lower back foraminal narrowing at the L3/L4 region.  I've been a slacker my whole life - eat and drink what I will and deal with the consequences later.  I played tennis four times a week for three decades, and then had knee issues, and it's been downhill from there.  Well, now at 65 I'm dealing with the consequences and have started the whole "lifestyle change" thing that includes going to a plant based/anti-inflammatory diet.  Probably TMI. 

 

The reason I'm chiming in here is that I'll likely spend months at a time living out of my 80s keystone, and it would be really good if I could keep leafy and other veges cold enough to last a week or more.  My $500 camper has a $1000 solar system - 490 watts and 200 ah.  I just finished sewing all the sideliner vinyl panels together - 38' x 36" of windowed and solid panels.  That was about $300 for all the materials, not counting the $900 sewing machine.  I have 22 yards of remnant upholstery fabric with a "rust theme" that I'll be sewing into abstract patterns and then using to make a new 48" bed and 42" wide cushions for the dinette that will make a second bed.  I'll use excess fabric to pattern the walls with a reflectix backing and an arctic "rust themed" arctic panel. 

 

The upshot is that a $600 12 volt fridge doesn't seem outrageous given I'll be spending three or four months a year living out of the camper.  While I'm hungry all the time with this plant based diet, I am ok with it.  I have a 120 qt. cooler for rafting, but am not willing to put up with all the dampness and so forth.  I don't want to have to pay attention to food at that level.  I just want it to be ready, and reasonably fresh.  I'll be heading out for a a monthlong shakedown cruise in a couple weeks.  I'll use my coolers and leave the rear five feet of the camper bare board.  Lots of plastic boxes with "stuff" in them... 

 

As an aside, beers are plant based, but man, - 200 calories each for good IPA...  LOL

 

This thread has me really leaning towards just biting the bullet and getting a 12v fridge.  Thanks for all the perspectives.  This forum is really relevant for me in this stage of life... 

 

Jeff

Laramie, WY


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#33 DonC

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 03:59 AM

You might want to check if you have Dometic's specified venting.  

The 2012 Fleet had one lower vent and one fan.  FWC added a second high vent which I believe is now standard.  I added two additional fans.  Sometimes I get acceptable performance in low 90's, but when leaving southern California in the summer, drinks and a few other things are ok,  I buy perishable food when I get to my generally cooler destination. 


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#34 Stokeme

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 04:41 AM

Jeff,

Where/how are you putting up all those watts? I will attempt similar.
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#35 ETAV8R

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 08:23 AM

What is your typical usage in terms of how many days you can keep it running? Most everyone seems to claim that solar is needed, but I was thinking that  with a second battery and since I run the truck everyday for at least an hour I can get by without solar.

To be honest I've never measured it. I did a calculations spreadsheet before deciding on what I wanted to have. I have run down the battery on one trip where the solar panel I was using was damaged (my fault). So that was <100watts in the winter. I had to leave early due to running the 2nd battery down. I tried to trouble shoot it but couldn't figure out why the fridge wasn't running and was giving an error code.

 

Well after only driving bout 20 minutes I checked the fridge again and it was going strong. I have a CTEK which charges both batteries from either solar or the alternator. I was packed up already and not going back to make camp for only one night. On my past few trips I've taken a different 100 watt panel and the system has worked well.

 

I'd say do solar as soon as possible to avoid any damage to your batteries.


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#36 philos65

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 10:03 PM

BatteryPete has solar panels for an excellent, "best on the web" price.  The link images in the schematic represent the "least expensive" parts to make up the system. 

Jeff,

Where/how are you putting up all those watts? I will attempt similar.

 

https://www.batteryp...solar-rec240pe/

 

Last July I asked what was the best way to mount the two 40 lb panels, and decided to mount them fore/aft on the drivers side.  I built a 1" box aluminum rack to support them.  I'll post pictures when I get the camera and roof in the same room. 

 

2017-07-26_1112.png
Attached File  Camper roof 3.pdf   146K   96 downloads

Attached File  Camper roof 2.pdf   149.8K   105 downloads

 

Jeff

 


Edited by philos65, 16 March 2018 - 10:04 PM.

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#37 la_morris

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Posted 21 March 2018 - 01:26 AM

I have two deep cycle batteries in my fleet shell. I use electricity for the two fantastic fans (if it is hot), charging the phone and very sparingly for the led lights. How much solar would I need for a12 volt fridge to run for 4 or 5 days with no driving. I'm thinking of an ARB or Engle - 40 liters at the most, but probably smaller. As is clear from the question, I don't really understand anything that has to do with electricity. Thanks for any advice you can toss my way.


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#38 pvstoy

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Posted 21 March 2018 - 02:49 AM

 

Last July I asked what was the best way to mount the two 40 lb panels, and decided to mount them fore/aft on the drivers side.  I built a 1" box aluminum rack to support them.  I'll post pictures when I get the camera and roof in the same room. 

 

Jeff

 

 

Hi Jeff did you put the panels on the roof as in the "Camper roof 2 PDF"?

 

Your weight is over 80 pounds on the roof.  You have the "shock helper thingies" if so what pounds are they?  2 front and back?

 

Thanks


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#39 JaSAn

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Posted 21 March 2018 - 03:12 AM

I have two deep cycle batteries in my fleet shell. I use electricity for the two fantastic fans (if it is hot), charging the phone and very sparingly for the led lights. How much solar would I need for a12 volt fridge to run for 4 or 5 days with no driving . . .

 

I have 2 X 100W panels and 208 AH of batteries running a 60L Norcold refrigerator, one Maxxfan, LED lights and assorted electronic gadgets.  With good sun I am back to 100% full on my batteries by 1 PM every day.  With no output from panels I can go 2 days to ~ 60% (closer to 50% if the temperatures are above 90ºF).

 

jim


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#40 philos65

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 11:58 PM

Hi Jeff did you put the panels on the roof as in the "Camper roof 2 PDF"?

 

Your weight is over 80 pounds on the roof.  You have the "shock helper thingies" if so what pounds are they?  2 front and back?

 

Thanks

 

Yes - I built a 1" aluminum box frame for the two solar panels as laid out in camper roof 2.pdf.  They will tilt up from the edge. 

 

I'm just finishing up wiring and insulation for the roof.  The headliner is next - tomorrow if it's not too cold out.  I'm not sure how chilly it can be for the spray adhesive to get tacky and dry.  Unfortunately, I work in an uninsulated, leaky garage and it's still winter in Laramie. 

 

I have both 60 lb and 40 lb gas struts I'm going to try out once the new sideliner is installed.  

 

I got a linear actuator and decided not to use the EMT lifter setup.  I'll find a "center of balance" for the actuator fore and aft to help raise and lower the thing with the best combination of struts.  I decided I had no interest in actually using my body to lift and lower the roof.  It'll be close to 180 pounds all told and I don't mind spending the time to use the actuator.  Ideally I'd suck it up and get three more actuators.  We'll see. 

 

I'll test different ways of vertically stiffening the sideliner once the roof is raised.  I'm assuming even 60 lb struts at either end won't keep the sideliner stiff and resist wind, etc. 

 

The crudest way of stiffening is probably 1" x 1" pine cut to the right length put at the corners.  Another would be spring loaded pvc pipe with end caps.  I'm sure a more elegant solution will appear.  Any suggestions are welcome. 

 

Jeff


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