21 replies to this topic

[blamkin86]

Hi all!

 

We've had our FWC Hawk for just over 2 years now, and have managed about 65 nights or so out in the Utah desert(s) and at race tracks.

 

The camper fit perfectly (well, maybe a little high) in my 2008 Silverado Duramax.

 

I've just "upgraded" to a 2017 Superduty, and as many of you know, the roof height is much taller, causing the underside of the camper to contact the truck roof.

 

As some others have done, I simply screwed 2x4s to the bottom of the camper. This lift was enough to fix the truck-clearance issue, however...

 

..I'm wondering if there's a more elegant solution? I'm not really excited about seeing exposed 2x4s under my camper every time I get in it.

 

Does someone make a "platform" or other non-home-depot solution to this problem?

 

Thanks in advance!

--Bill

Edited by blamkin86, 19 January 2018 - 04:00 PM.

[Living The Dream]

I used 2X3s painted them gloss white to match camper but also put in a little trap door type of thing. Perfect to store a tailgating table. You can see it here: https://youtu.be/joMpC8FSycg?t=109.  A lot of people refer to it as the basement, if you can find some functionality for the space maybe you won't dislike it so much. 

[Beach]

I cut my front to back runners short to allow for a 2x2 that runs across the width of the truck bed to give it a more finished look. You could also add a piece of trim to the bottom of the camper that would hide the 2x4s.

[buckland]

I attached the 2x4" but also installed rigid insulation board. The floor is a lot warmer in cold weather. 

[Old Crow]

I had the same problem last Fall when I moved from my '01 F150 to '13 Tundra.  My solution was very similar to the ideas already posted but I thought I'd add some photos.

 

I attached a sheet of 2" rigid insulation board to the underside of the camper (without 2x4s) and of course had to deal with the ugly bright-green color of the end of the insulation board.

 

The 2" insulation is a true 2 inches so I glued up a trim piece from 1-1/2" stock and 1/2" stock (both 1-1/2" wide and both from Lowe's) and attached it to bottom of the camper with deeply-countersunk screws.  I chose to make the trim piece the same width as the camper (rather than try to block off the entire space).

 

Paint is the same I used on the floor-pack-- Glidden Gripper primer and Glidden Premium Exterior in Cool Metalwork Grey.   If you look closely at the second photo, you can see the glue-line on the new trim.

 

(click to enlarge)

 

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[2tallDA]

2x2's under my Northstar to accommodate my '07's taller roof.

Floor's already insulated.

[Bill D]

Nice upgrade on the truck.  I've been eyeballing the new Super Dutys.  I'm driving a 2009 GMC, which I enjoy, but I'm still jealous.  

 

I think I've seen a few guys in your situation create some awesome sliding drawers to put things like fishing rods etc.  Best of luck with your solution.  I'm sure you can come up with something great.

Edited by Bill D, 20 January 2018 - 05:03 AM.

[camper rich]

I added a riser of 2 x 3 laying flat for an increase of 1-5/8".  That gave me the clearance over the cab I needed to add a box under the overhang to hold my extend & climb collapsable ladder.  We also have the Easy-Awn stainless steel table that slides into two mounting brackets mounted under the overhang.  

 

https://www.equipt1....amp-table-small

[PackRat]

Not sure about the construction methods of other campers, but Alaskans over 40 years old tend to have soft or well jiggled joints so supporting the in the bed is critical. I wasn't sure if I needed to raise my '76 CO 8 ft. to clear the cab so I used a 5/8" plywood and some 2x6s I had laying around. The key here was to support the 48" width of the AK with a 48" plywood on all  four sides. With the ribbed bed liner still in there to allow for air flow, I added three more crossmembers. 

 

In reality, I could probably just remove the riser as I have at least 3"+ clearance in the bed rails and 4"+ on the cab. I plan to remove the riser 2x6s and set it back down on the plywood I think. Good support where the rear door is will be important so the plywood will extend exactly to that edge. I think the plywood will add enough insulation value and some carpet inside will keep bare feet from being chilly.

 

The rig is tarped right now, but when warm weather returns, the plywood will get oil-based primer/paint to seal it. Not sure about your camper, but the floors in the AK are subject to rot so preventative maintenance is imperative. Guys that have had to jack up the camper several inches have decided to design the riser so there is a compartment between the 2x6s or whatever dimension planks they used at the rear and located the first crossmember in deep enough to allow for a folding table or a drawer to fit in there.

[JaSAn]

+1 on rigid insulation board.  I used pink Foamular 250 and made an endcap that fit over the tailgate pivot stubs.  I like that it supports the whole floor as mine is old and soft.

 

 

jim