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Rotor and brakes question


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#21 Vic Harder

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 04:41 AM

I don't see anything to worry about.  If it was me, I would remove the piston caliper pins and lube them, reassemble, bleed the brakes,  and be worry free for another year.


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#22 ntsqd

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 01:11 PM

There's manufacturing tolerances in everything. That one piston moves a little easier than the other is no surprise. I wouldn't worry either, but if you want piece of mind get a piece of soft wood (soft pine is good, balsa is too soft) that is the same thickness as the stack of pads & rotor. Place it in the caliper and step on the brakes. Remove the piece and compare the impressions from the pistons.


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Thom

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#23 klahanie

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 05:22 PM

I don't see anything to worry about.  If it was me, I would remove the piston caliper pins and lube them, reassemble, bleed the brakes,  and be worry free for another year.

Thanks brother. And good luck with your new camper set up !

 

There's manufacturing tolerances in everything. That one piston moves a little easier than the other is no surprise. I wouldn't worry either, but if you want piece of mind get a piece of soft wood (soft pine is good, balsa is too soft) that is the same thickness as the stack of pads & rotor. Place it in the caliper and step on the brakes. Remove the piece and compare the impressions from the pistons.

Thank you. Great idea. And a better replication than what I did with the pistons fully compressed. Might not be a coincidence, for my "test" both rears (orig) were as I posted, both fronts (1yo remans) the dual pistons moved equally.

I have to source a test material then I'll try your idea.

Cheers.


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#24 Backroad Joe

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 12:36 AM

To the most recent posts, the hydraulic pressure will move the piston with least resistance. Considering slip/stick characteristics as well this could be infinitesimal. No worrires, although I would not want to depress the brake pedal without some manner (wood block) of capturing the caliper.

 

As far as slots (post #19) I have always understood them not for clearing of debris but a more microscopic level, to allow the outgassing of the the hot pad compound to be stripped away preventing a layer of near frictionless gas to accumulate.


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#25 ntsqd

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 12:55 AM

.......

As far as slots (post #19) I have always understood them not for clearing of debris but a more microscopic level, to allow the outgassing of the the hot pad compound to be stripped away preventing a layer of near frictionless gas to accumulate.

That was what drilled rotors were all about when they first appeared. This is no longer the case and hasn't been for quite some time. Now they exist because marketers have keyed in on some folks still thinking this is true. You might find slotted rotors on something of mine, you'll never find drilled rotors as those holes are crack promoters.

-former racing brake design Engineer (me)


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Thom

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#26 Vic Harder

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 03:45 AM

Thanks brother. And good luck with your new camper set up !

 

Thanks!  I was doing preventative maintenance on my "new" to me 2006 3500... brakes.... so this is even on topic!  BOTH rear bleed screws broke off, even after extensive soaking with WD40.  So the truck has new rear calipers.  I had better luck with the fronts.  I think this is because all the bleeders point to the center of the truck, so the rears are facing the rain/salt.  Now the parking brake shoes and leaking rear axle seals are next.... 


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2002 GMC Sierra 8.1L 2500HD

2006 Chev Silverado 3500 LBZ

2005 Hawk Shell built the way I like it - for sale!

2012 ATC Puma (Grandby) - on the way!

 





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