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Rotor and brakes question


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#21 Vic Harder

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 04:41 AM

I don't see anything to worry about.  If it was me, I would remove the piston caliper pins and lube them, reassemble, bleed the brakes,  and be worry free for another year.


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#22 ntsqd

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 01:11 PM

There's manufacturing tolerances in everything. That one piston moves a little easier than the other is no surprise. I wouldn't worry either, but if you want piece of mind get a piece of soft wood (soft pine is good, balsa is too soft) that is the same thickness as the stack of pads & rotor. Place it in the caliper and step on the brakes. Remove the piece and compare the impressions from the pistons.


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Thom

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#23 klahanie

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 05:22 PM

I don't see anything to worry about.  If it was me, I would remove the piston caliper pins and lube them, reassemble, bleed the brakes,  and be worry free for another year.

Thanks brother. And good luck with your new camper set up !

 

There's manufacturing tolerances in everything. That one piston moves a little easier than the other is no surprise. I wouldn't worry either, but if you want piece of mind get a piece of soft wood (soft pine is good, balsa is too soft) that is the same thickness as the stack of pads & rotor. Place it in the caliper and step on the brakes. Remove the piece and compare the impressions from the pistons.

Thank you. Great idea. And a better replication than what I did with the pistons fully compressed. Might not be a coincidence, for my "test" both rears (orig) were as I posted, both fronts (1yo remans) the dual pistons moved equally.

I have to source a test material then I'll try your idea.

Cheers.


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#24 Backroad Joe

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 12:36 AM

To the most recent posts, the hydraulic pressure will move the piston with least resistance. Considering slip/stick characteristics as well this could be infinitesimal. No worrires, although I would not want to depress the brake pedal without some manner (wood block) of capturing the caliper.

 

As far as slots (post #19) I have always understood them not for clearing of debris but a more microscopic level, to allow the outgassing of the the hot pad compound to be stripped away preventing a layer of near frictionless gas to accumulate.


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#25 ntsqd

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 12:55 AM

.......

As far as slots (post #19) I have always understood them not for clearing of debris but a more microscopic level, to allow the outgassing of the the hot pad compound to be stripped away preventing a layer of near frictionless gas to accumulate.

That was what drilled rotors were all about when they first appeared. This is no longer the case and hasn't been for quite some time. Now they exist because marketers have keyed in on some folks still thinking this is true. You might find slotted rotors on something of mine, you'll never find drilled rotors as those holes are crack promoters.

-former racing brake design Engineer (me)


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Thom

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#26 Vic Harder

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 03:45 AM

Thanks brother. And good luck with your new camper set up !

 

Thanks!  I was doing preventative maintenance on my "new" to me 2006 3500... brakes.... so this is even on topic!  BOTH rear bleed screws broke off, even after extensive soaking with WD40.  So the truck has new rear calipers.  I had better luck with the fronts.  I think this is because all the bleeders point to the center of the truck, so the rears are facing the rain/salt.  Now the parking brake shoes and leaking rear axle seals are next.... 


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#27 klahanie

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Posted 18 April 2019 - 10:19 PM

Backroad Joe, thx for the additional reassurance. I know what you mean about the pistons might pop out - easier to do than to put them back in !

 

Speaking of slots ... been using the mfrs replacement parts (Motorcraft) but the spares I just received have a slot across the pad surface. These are the "towing" or "severe duty" or whatever grade, and the sales blurb mentioned,

 

"Slots engineered to help improve heat and water dissipation by providing a path for gases, wear debris and water to escape from between the pad and rotor surface"

 

Whereas the regular, or I should say, "standard premium"  <_< pads I've been using have a continuous surface. Will it make a diff ? who knows...

 

---

 

Vic, may The Force be with you ... reassembling those parking shoe springs :P


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#28 Vic Harder

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Posted 19 April 2019 - 01:19 AM

 

Vic, may The Force be with you ... reassembling those parking shoe springs :P

Easier by far if you pull the axles too.  Mine seals were leaking and I lacked the tools.  Normally I would jump at the chance to buy more tools, but as I get older I am thinking "downsizing" is my new mantra.  Now if only that applied to my truck and camper and the stuff I want to take along as well  :huh:


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#29 klahanie

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Posted 19 April 2019 - 02:09 AM

yep .. A Lifetime with "stuff":

first third, pining

second third, acquiring

last third, disentangling

 

I love out truck, camper and doing outdoors, but man, the associated stuff can be a hassle. I always say to anyone asking about getting into it, make sure you have somewhere to put all that stuff. "All what stuff ?", they reply.

Oh well, nevermind  ^_^ 


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#30 Mighty Dodge Ram

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Posted 24 April 2019 - 03:18 PM

“but as I get older I am thinking "downsizing" is my new mantra.”

Ha ha...still love collecting tools but recently I find myself buying my way out of repairs/maintenance rather than laying on my back under a vehicle.
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