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Safety wire?


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#11 ScottBailey

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Posted 28 February 2009 - 06:01 PM

I was getting ready to twist up some safety wire today and took a good look at the truck bed where the eye bolts are mounted. :( It looks like the washers ATC installed aren't spreading the load across enough area for the thickness of the bed! So I'm speculating the turnbuckles are pulling the bed up ever so slightly and then further vibrating loose.

So it looks like step one is to replace the washers with steel plates sandwiching the bed. Maybe just go straight to bolt through on the front and remount the battery where the front turnbuckles are.
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Scott Bailey -- W7SEB
2007 F350 XLT Diesel CC SRW SB 4x4
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Future? Really like the Hiatus, but I'm broke AF, so dreaming about a DIY.
SOLD: 2008 ATC Panther:dinette, 5th wheel


#12 Alex

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Posted 28 February 2009 - 06:41 PM

Have you guys thought about using Torklift type of tie down, it's spring loaded so it has some "give" when the truck is flexing. Mine front tie down is mounted on the frame so it should be strong enough. My Tacoma has a composite bed so bolting camper to the bed is not an option and I'm not sure how the bed will react when the frame is flexing. The rigidity different between the camper and truck bed during offroad flexing condition.
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#13 ScottBailey

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Posted 28 February 2009 - 10:36 PM

Have you guys thought about using Torklift type of tie down, it's spring loaded so it has some "give" when the truck is flexing. Mine front tie down is mounted on the frame so it should be strong enough. My Tacoma has a composite bed so bolting camper to the bed is not an option and I'm not sure how the bed will react when the frame is flexing. The rigidity different between the camper and truck bed during offroad flexing condition.


I think the Happijac system seems more compatible with my usage; however, I don't think I need the weight carrying capacity of either external system nor am I especially interested in worsening my aerodynamics.

Plus, reinforcing existing bolt locations or bolt through are CHEAPER (and look better?)...
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Scott Bailey -- W7SEB
2007 F350 XLT Diesel CC SRW SB 4x4
Cheap tent and a Partner Steel stove. 
Future? Really like the Hiatus, but I'm broke AF, so dreaming about a DIY.
SOLD: 2008 ATC Panther:dinette, 5th wheel


#14 keith

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Posted 01 March 2009 - 12:15 AM

I'm planning on using happijac. The eye bolts on the jack brackets. I think it will be easier to keep an eye on them and keep them tight.
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#15 pods8

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Posted 01 March 2009 - 04:27 AM

I put my camper back on today and tossed a wing nut and lock washer on the turn buckel, we'll see how it works out:


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2003 Dodge 1500 quad cab 4x4 5.7L Hemi auto w/ ride rite air springs and 1999(2000?) Hawk

2007 Dodge 2500 quad cab 4x4 5.7L Hemi auto and slowly progressing build.

FYI: I've got a bunch of extra 14ga wire in red and black. Its a thick jacket 41strand wire (likely MTW wire) verse typical 19strand automotive wire. It has good flexibility but factor in the thick jacket. I'll ship out 100' coils for $18 (I can go 50' of ea for that too) if anyone is in need of wire.

#16 Alex

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Posted 01 March 2009 - 06:26 AM

I think the Happijac system seems more compatible with my usage; however, I don't think I need the weight carrying capacity of either external system nor am I especially interested in worsening my aerodynamics.

Plus, reinforcing existing bolt locations or bolt through are CHEAPER (and look better?)...


True, Torklift is going to cost more, not sure how much it'll effect aerodynamic mine is pretty close to the truck body. There are two things made me go with Torklift, 1. The tie down is spring loaded, so in case I hit a pot hole of something, the camper can "jump" a little, 2. The tie down is in plain view, I can check it their condition by looking at the rear view mirror. When I run to tea kettle junction in DV it's pretty nice to be able check the tie downs from the mirrow. :)
Do you have a air deflector on the truck roof? I got one from Thule and it helps a little with the wind noise so I'm guessing it should make the aerodynamic a tiny bit better.
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#17 brett13

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Posted 01 March 2009 - 04:29 PM

Pods,

I'm not 100% sure, but that looks to me like if the turnbuckle moves even slightly, the wingnut will also loosen and have no positive pressure to help. Wouldn't any nut need to be inside the frame of the turnbuckle to work? What am I missing?
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Once had 2007 Tundra TRD 4x4 5.7 SR5 w/ Firestone bags, Bilstein 5100s in front, Total Chaos shackles rear, 275/70/18 E rated Michelin LTX AT2
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Now, just roaming around in a stock Land Cruiser (not stock for long though... bawahahha [evil laugh])

#18 pods8

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Posted 01 March 2009 - 04:35 PM

Pods,

I'm not 100% sure, but that looks to me like if the turnbuckle moves even slightly, the wingnut will also loosen and have no positive pressure to help. Wouldn't any nut need to be inside the frame of the turnbuckle to work? What am I missing?


No you're seeing things right in that regards. Don't know how you'd put nuts inside the buckle though (ie no space). What I'm trying here is I put a wing nut and a toothed lock washer on there and tightened it against the turnbuckle (w/ pliers for the final pressure). "Theoretically" the toothed washer on the turn buckle should hinder movement of it which would release the pressure. No idea if it will work or not yet, but a few wing nuts and lock washers were cheap to try out.
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2003 Dodge 1500 quad cab 4x4 5.7L Hemi auto w/ ride rite air springs and 1999(2000?) Hawk

2007 Dodge 2500 quad cab 4x4 5.7L Hemi auto and slowly progressing build.

FYI: I've got a bunch of extra 14ga wire in red and black. Its a thick jacket 41strand wire (likely MTW wire) verse typical 19strand automotive wire. It has good flexibility but factor in the thick jacket. I'll ship out 100' coils for $18 (I can go 50' of ea for that too) if anyone is in need of wire.

#19 keith

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Posted 01 March 2009 - 04:46 PM

PODS8 Have you thought of using a star washer. They have little turned up metal "stars" on either the inside or outside of the washer. They take a lot less pressure to lock up. May not need to get a wrench in there. Hand tight may be enough.
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2008 F250 CC SB 6.4L 4x4 / 2009 Hawk FWC

#20 pods8

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Posted 01 March 2009 - 05:37 PM

PODS8 Have you thought of using a star washer. They have little turned up metal "stars" on either the inside or outside of the washer. They take a lot less pressure to lock up. May not need to get a wrench in there. Hand tight may be enough.


Yeah that is what I'm using, I was just calling it a toothed lock washer. I tightened the wing nut by hang then put some force to it with some adjustable pliers. We'll see how it works, if successful its a rather cheap and easy thing. Tracking down some reverse thread wing nuts to do the same on the other side could potentially help out too but I'm content to see how this handles for now.
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2003 Dodge 1500 quad cab 4x4 5.7L Hemi auto w/ ride rite air springs and 1999(2000?) Hawk

2007 Dodge 2500 quad cab 4x4 5.7L Hemi auto and slowly progressing build.

FYI: I've got a bunch of extra 14ga wire in red and black. Its a thick jacket 41strand wire (likely MTW wire) verse typical 19strand automotive wire. It has good flexibility but factor in the thick jacket. I'll ship out 100' coils for $18 (I can go 50' of ea for that too) if anyone is in need of wire.




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