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Yakima Roof Track Install

yakima tracks roof

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#1 cfike

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 06:12 PM

I am considering adding Yakima tracks to my 2010 Fleet in order to potentially attach a solar panel. Poking holes in the roof gives me heart palpitations so I wanted to see if anyone had any insights or recommendations. From what I've pieced together in other threads (correct me if I'm wrong) the tracks are attached to the beams in the camper roof with #8 1” sheet metal screws, not the supplied Yakima fasteners. Butyl tape should be applied under the tracks and Sikaflex should be applied liberally in the screw holes. I am not sure about the number of screws needed or spacing. Has anyone ever used a square head bolt in the tracks rather than the flat Yakima nut? I see Thule makes such bolts but don't know if they fit in this track. Thanks!

 


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#2 buckland

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 04:36 PM

I'd stick to the screws that FWC uses... I installed mine. Best way to "find" the square tube running front to back is to go inside camper and notice the insulation in the roof... feel around and find the aluminum...measure out from the wall. You have an inch of 'play' when you then measure in from the lip on the outside (about 3/8"more for overhang). definitely use the butyl tape and apply a dab of sealant on each screw (I started each screw...backed it out applied there sealant to the hole then put screw in all the way.) It has been 5 years and all is fine with mine. Best of luck. 


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#3 ckent323

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 08:43 PM

The roof skin on my 2007 Keystone is thin enough that I could pretty much feel the Aluminum structure when pressing down on the roof with my.fingers while moving them around.

 

I used that technique to confirm the location of the Solar pre-wire and roof structure, when cutting to install my Go Power solar feed through plate that I calculated by transferring measurements made from inside. My calculations were off by about 1/2" due to the uncertainty caused by the roof edge flange and thickness from inside to outside.


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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#4 cfike

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 11:28 PM

What are "the screws that FWC uses"?

My roof feels thin enough to find the structure as well. I found a junction box with the solar prewire behind a piece of wood on the ceiling that my interior struts are attached to, so it should be straightforward to drill the hole for the wires.
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#5 buckland

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 12:26 AM

I think self tapping 8’s hex heads but please call Stan first. I am in camper on a trip and the roof is up and can’t look .....I’ll climb up tomorrow.
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2016 Duramax 2.8 Diesel long bed Colorado 4WD with 2011 Eagle

Lordwoodcraft  instagram        Rob
The only people who ever get anyplace interesting are the people who get lost.
Henry David Thoreau
"Work to achieve not to acquire"

 


#6 ckent323

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 01:41 AM

cfike,

 

I already had Yakima racks on my camper but not solar so I am not going to try and offer any advice on attaching the racks except to say that I think your approach seems reasonable.

 

There was no junction box in my camper roof only an aluminum plate with a hole in it and wires going up through it and coiled between the plate and the skin of the roof.  However, I was located above the support board and headliner as you described.

 

I wrote up my install and use of the GO Power entry plate here (specifically see comments 19 & 20):

http://www.wanderthe... 2007 keystone

 

 

Regards,

Craig


Edited by ckent323, 20 July 2018 - 01:42 AM.

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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone






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