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I am starting to really dislike my camper solar


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#21 hoyden

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 09:30 PM

Hi Advmoto! The odd thing is that I only left Enterprise, OR where I'd been plugged in for four+ days a week ago. I'd think that my batteries wouldn't have so much difficulty.

 

One of the symptoms happened with my original batteries two(?) years ago - I was camped at Valley of the Gods, UT meetup with some other WtW folks. They all had no problems leaving their campers parked for four days, but my batteries got low enough I went to drive around to try to boost them. This is a location with full sun all day all the time. 

 

I will definitely check that battery separator. Is this what you are talking about?
https://www.hodgesma...R-p/blu7610.htm

 

I've got my camper plugged in at my friend's house in Flagstaff now. We haven't had a chance to troubleshoot (I just got in yesterday)

 

----

Maybe I should buy a 100w portable while I have an address for shipping (or anyone know a place in Flag to buy solar?).
Any recommendations for not expensive panel?


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#22 craig333

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 10:11 PM

You were plugged in? You do have an IOTA converter I presume?  https://www.iotaengi...g.com/dls30.htm

 

Even without the IQ4 module you should see 13.4 volts if you're plugged in. More if you have the IQ4 and the batteries need charging.

This is why I like having a voltmeter installed. I can see at a glance if anything looks wrong. If it does then I'll climb in and check the trimetric. 

IMG_20170815_154531393_TOP%5B1%5D-L.jpg

I just wired that meter to the 12volt plug outlet. Not the best for accuracy but its close enough for my purposes. If you have an IOTA i'd plug in and check that now. Assuming you have one (its rare not to have one) and you don't see at least 13.4 volts you need to find out why. Blown fuse? Miswired? 

 

This time of year your panels should be able to keep up. 


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#23 Alley-Kat

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 10:19 PM

Solve your issue before throwing money for another panel.

 

Something is not right with your system.

 

I have a 135 watt panel, Morningstar charge controller and a 100 amp Lifeline battery. I have only solar charging, no electrical connection to the truck in any way. I run a Truck Fridge (2 amps/hour average) as the major power usage. Seldom use the LED lights, the Fantastic Fan, the Propane Heater or the Propane Stove Top. Been this way since 2014 and working great.

 

So, you should be OK with what you've already got, once you fix the issue.


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#24 Advmoto18

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 10:19 PM

Hoyden

 

Sounds like you need to have your system checked out by a tech knowledgeable in solar.   

 

Full sun all day long should keep the batteries in the 12.0+ range, unless your frig is constantly running.  We keep our frig on setting 2, sometimes, but rarely, 3.  No need to go any colder as this will cause the compressor to run almost continuously when temps are above 80F and parked in full sun.  The frig is the big energy consumer in summer.

 

I still have the factory Dometic frig but would like to figure out a way to install a National Luna.  NL are simply too large for the space.  Dometic are designed to be installed in RV's not our popup campers.  I wish FWC would offer a National Luna option.  I might rip out my right side cabinets, modify or build news ones to accommodate a NL...some day.  Installing a NL will greatly relieve the strain on battery drain during the day.  Sorry, got on the NL tangent.  I really want one!  NL keeps food cold longer and uses considerably less energy than the Dometic frig.

 

Camping on the Alvord in SE Oregon, I never saw our batteries get below 12.2V;  full sun, frig on setting 2, fan running, heater running at night when temps below 50F (not my choice :) ).

 

It sounds as though you aren't getting all the amps from the panel down into your camper batteries for some reason.  You sure you aren't shading a cell on the panel?  If the batteries are discharged, the truck's alternator will not charge the camper batteries since you can't manually close the relay between the camper and the truck.

 

Here's the Blue Seas unit you need.  No you don't need 500 amps.  But you do need the switch for the auto function and the yellow lever on the unit to manually override the relay when camper batteries in deep discharge state and you need the truck electrical system to charge them.  Just be aware, manual override will discharge your crank battery to charge the camper batteries faster then the alternator will charge the crank battery.  So when finished charging the camper batteries and after resetting the manual override, let the truck continue to idle a little while in order to charge the crank battery.

 

Bill


Edited by Advmoto18, 11 September 2018 - 10:28 PM.

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South Carolina Low Country.  


#25 Vic Harder

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 11:34 PM

One more question Hoyden,  is your fridge a two way or three way?  The three way variety really don't work great on 12vdc.

 

Agree on the 7622 ACR, that is what i use and it is awesome.


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#26 CougarCouple

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 11:54 PM

Hi Dawn
Glad you made it to flagstaff ok. Is the company AT that you got the batteries and solar system from in or near you now?
Russ
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#27 hoyden

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Posted 12 September 2018 - 01:01 AM

One more question Hoyden,  is your fridge a two way or three way?  The three way variety really don't work great on 12vdc.

 

Agree on the 7622 ACR, that is what i use and it is awesome.

 

Ah, my fridge is a two-way Dometic.


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As I get braver I get stronger, and as I get stronger I get braver. It’ a good cycle.

#28 KK7OQ

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Posted 12 September 2018 - 02:52 AM

You were plugged in? You do have an IOTA converter I presume? https://www.iotaengi...g.com/dls30.htm

Even without the IQ4 module you should see 13.4 volts if you're plugged in. More if you have the IQ4 and the batteries need charging.
This is why I like having a voltmeter installed. I can see at a glance if anything looks wrong. If it does then I'll climb in and check the trimetric.
IMG_20170815_154531393_TOP%5B1%5D-L.jpg
I just wired that meter to the 12volt plug outlet. Not the best for accuracy but its close enough for my purposes. If you have an IOTA i'd plug in and check that now. Assuming you have one (its rare not to have one) and you don't see at least 13.4 volts you need to find out why. Blown fuse? Miswired?

This time of year your panels should be able to keep up.


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#29 hoyden

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Posted 12 September 2018 - 04:54 AM

Oh, my controller shows good while plugged in. I forgot what it was reading today, but it is happy with shore power 


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https://no-destination.org/ .:.  https://razorgirls.org/

 

2014 Tacoma DCLB + 2015 FWC Fleet

 

As I get braver I get stronger, and as I get stronger I get braver. It’ a good cycle.

#30 Vic Harder

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Posted 12 September 2018 - 02:07 PM

what does it show when plugged in for a few days? and then right when you disconnect the shore power?
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