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FWC Winter camping


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#101 patrickkidd

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Posted 02 March 2019 - 07:43 PM

I just ordered the one from eBay so well see how it goes


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#102 patrickkidd

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Posted 28 March 2019 - 03:51 AM

Here are some photos from the finished product. Custom insulation pack made from WarmWindow material plus blackout fabric, snapped into walls and velcro into sideliner "canvas." Almost all walls are covered, including the door. It is extremely effective. Also keeps condensation down on the sideliner canvas because the air next to it is not as warm. Had to hire a seamstress with a large sewing machine, and then used the snap press at a fabric store.

 

With a Camco Olympian Wave 6 heater, my FWC Ranger 2 is very comfortable all the way down to 0F, and hardly uses any propane.

 

Side note: Custom Cobalt-blue cushions are separable for sofa-like bench comfort and storage.

 

IMG_0272.jpg IMG_0273.jpg IMG_0274.jpg IMG_0276.jpg IMG_0277.jpg


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#103 Wallowa

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Posted 28 March 2019 - 08:20 PM

Here are some photos from the finished product. Custom insulation pack made from WarmWindow material plus blackout fabric, snapped into walls and velcro into sideliner "canvas." Almost all walls are covered, including the door. It is extremely effective. Also keeps condensation down on the sideliner canvas because the air next to it is not as warm. Had to hire a seamstress with a large sewing machine, and then used the snap press at a fabric store.

 

With a Camco Olympian Wave 6 heater, my FWC Ranger 2 is very comfortable all the way down to 0F, and hardly uses any propane.

 

Side note: Custom Cobalt-blue cushions are separable for sofa-like bench comfort and storage.

 

 

 

 

Interesting approach...I assume at zero F your FWC water systems are drained?  Inside temp was never a limiter for us, only freezing of water lines...


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#104 patrickkidd

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 04:06 AM

I actually haven’t had a problem with my water lines. Though in this older model the tank is inside the outer insulation.
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#105 Living The Dream

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Posted 30 March 2019 - 05:19 AM

Looks great. The warm material looks like it does the trick. And +1 for the door!


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My youtube channel about my Four Wheel Camper - https://www.youtube.com/c/timmorrissey

All about my camper - https://www.tgmorrissey.com/camper

Item I used in my build- http://bit.ly/TGMorrisseyParts


#106 Mighty Dodge Ram

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Posted 30 March 2019 - 05:31 PM

Nice job!
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Richard
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, lightly lifted, ARB bumper/Warn winch, BFG AT/KO2, Snugtop shell. SOLD! But not forgotten!
2002 Chevy 2500HD XC LB 6.0L 4X4, Leer Hi-Rise shell, completely stock...for now!

#107 FreezingMan

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Posted 26 October 2019 - 07:11 PM

Here are some photos from the finished product. Custom insulation pack made from WarmWindow material plus blackout fabric, snapped into walls and velcro into sideliner "canvas." Almost all walls are covered, including the door. It is extremely effective. Also keeps condensation down on the sideliner canvas because the air next to it is not as warm. Had to hire a seamstress with a large sewing machine, and then used the snap press at a fabric store.

 

With a Camco Olympian Wave 6 heater, my FWC Ranger 2 is very comfortable all the way down to 0F, and hardly uses any propane.

 

Side note: Custom Cobalt-blue cushions are separable for sofa-like bench comfort and storage.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0272.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_0273.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_0274.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_0276.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_0277.jpg

I really like this idea but I have a few questions before I pull the trigger.  Do you have to remove the custom insulation pack prior to dropping the camper?  Do you miss not having access to the windows?  Any unexpected upside or downside since you've installed it?


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#108 patrickkidd

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Posted 26 October 2019 - 07:52 PM

I really like this idea but I have a few questions before I pull the trigger.  Do you have to remove the custom insulation pack prior to dropping the camper?  Do you miss not having access to the windows?  Any unexpected upside or downside since you've installed it?

 

Nothing to worry about with any of this stuff, other than sorting out where to store the insulation if you take it off the walls. But if its summer you don't need to bring them and if its winter then you'll never take them down anyway. No, I don't miss the windows at all and actually keep them up all year to keep thieves from seeing into the camper. That's actually a huge bonus in itself.

 

To drop the roof all you have to do is unvelcro the top edge of the insulation. It's really no big deal. I lived in it all winter and it didn't bother me. The benefit was so great that I could have done with even more inconvenience.

 

Just go for it, it totally rocks.


Edited by patrickkidd, 26 October 2019 - 07:54 PM.

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#109 m.r.h.

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Posted 28 October 2019 - 10:30 PM

I really like that insulation pack! I don't spent much time in the cold but am in need or something. I have some reflectix for the walls but not a huge fan of "living inside of a toaster" feel it gives the camper. I skimmed the entire thread but didn't see much information about putting them together. How much warmwindow material did you use? Where did you get it? 

 

I live in my camper from late spring to early fall. I keep it parked in the shade to help keep things cool, as well as keep my pretty new "canvas" out of the sun. However, it gets pretty hot inside, even with a fan going. Luckily it cools down a bit at night. Have you tried your insulation in the warmer months to help keep things inside cool?


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#110 Jack

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Posted 18 February 2022 - 01:10 AM

Rear door thermopane! No more ice and a LOT less condensation on the outside - none on the inside.

 

For $80 for a theremopane window plus a few extra bucks for spray foam, pocket nails and caulk.

 

First, I discovered that most glass outfits want to come out and replace the glass for you for a fixed quote (if they even work on RVs). Hah! A little perseverance and I found a shop that ordered a thermopane window for the same dimensions as the existing window with a 1/4" spacer.

 

You want to take the door off and work on a table - both sides of the frame come out when you remove the pocket screws.

The thermopane is 3/8" thicker so I inserted 1/4" plywood under the inside frame, cut to be flush with the edge of the frame. Pocket screws come in 1/2" increments, so I drilled the screw holes in the outside frame a wee bit wider and longer so the 1/8" longer (into the screw hole) pocket screws would not split the plastic. The plastic frame is barely strong enough to support a single pane of glass let alone thermopane, so I fitted wood blocks at the bottom of the pane with a 1/8" piece of rubber to absorb shocks. I also fitted blocks on the side at the top for stability.

 

For assembly, I laid a caulk bead on the edge of the outside plastic frame and then inserted it into the door and placed supports under the door to keep the frame flush with the door. Next came the thermopane and the blocks. Insulating foam was sprayed in the gap between the window and the door frame. There was probably 1 sq ft of completely uninsulated, unsealed space in the door.

 

Using the inside frame as a guide for the corners, I cut pieces of 1/4" plywood, about 1/2" wide. I then laid the inside frame on top and started the pocket screws but did not tighten them. I inserted the plywood strips (after some fine tuning of the curved pieces) and tightened the pocket screws. Last step was to cleanup the caulk on the outside frame and reinstall the door.

 

We've had a few nights in the teens and no movement/damage to the thermopane in a drive in and out of Saline Valley and the sand dunes.


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