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2012 Eagle Winter Project - Truckfridge, Propex, Solar

solar battery Blue Sea ML truckfridge propex

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#1 Yubaman

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Posted 23 November 2018 - 09:34 PM

I recently bought an 2012 FWC Eagle which has very few accessories. The plan is to add a 65L Truckfridge to replace icebox, a Propex 2000 Heater and solar. At present there is what appears to be an original single AGM Batt. with a Surepower separator. Also has an Iota DLS-30 charger/converter. 

 

I do not intend to bring a generator or hook up to shore power when on the road. I realize that the charger is wholly inadequate and have a variable output charger for home. 

 

I have ordered the fridge and Propex (from Westy) and just received a Victron BMV712 battery monitor.

 

The FWC is mounted on a 2014 Tacoma which is a good combo so far. I had previously installed an auxiliary battery(flooded)in the engine compartment which is charged through a Blue Sea ML-ACR switch with remote, and 4awg wire run to bed and connected to the camper. I would prefer to not change the underhood stuff. 

 

I want to install a single quality flexible solar panel, (no holes, lightweight) 150w+ and either flooded golf carts or AGMs along with an MPPT controller. 

 

I am waiting to buy and install the batteries and solar until I get the stuff I bought in. 

 

I have a few questions and welcome any comments about this. Will post pics as I go. 

 

I have read HandyBob's solar blog and believe him. 

 

1. Does anyone have an opinion about whether or how the Blue Sea unit will affect charging of the camper batt bank when driving? 

 

2. Should ALL four batteries including the two engine compartment batteries be of the same type? 

 

3. How will the solar charging affect the aux battery in the engine compartment? 

 

4. Should I run a separate 30amp circuit to the camper and bypass the entire aux. batt setup? 

 

5. Any thoughts on the solar plan? esp flexible panel..

 

 

Thanks WTW crew!!

 

Greg 

 

 

 


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#2 craig333

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Posted 23 November 2018 - 10:15 PM

The Iota is a fine charger if you the IQ4 smart charger accessory. I like the idea of flexible panels but I'm leery of them seeing the issues people here have had. TF, propex and Blue Sea are good choices. AGM's if you're installing them inside the camper. I'm not quite sure just how your camper batt, aux batt (you have two in the truck and one in the camper?) are wired currently. Victron is an excellent battery monitor, what controller are you going to use?


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Craig KK6AUI _________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5

#3 Yubaman

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 12:50 AM

I am hoping to get some feedback here on the controller. May just skip the MPPT and use a Morningstar Sunsaver. 

 

Just installed the Victron and it works great


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#4 Vic Harder

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 02:58 AM

use a victron mppt , you won’t regret it
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#5 Roaming_Eagle

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 03:01 AM

Sounds like your doing what I did with my 08' Eagle, the Propex HS2000 is a great choice just make sure that you duct the burner exhaust correctly. I went all in when I gutted and rewired my camper using tin coated copper wire, red arc, blue sea system and renogy equipment. My best advice is to not cheap out, make sure you solder and heat shrink all connections and AGM batteries are going to be your best bang for your buck.  


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#6 Vic Harder

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 06:04 AM

I recently bought an 2012 FWC Eagle which has very few accessories. The plan is to add a 65L Truckfridge to replace icebox, a Propex 2000 Heater and solar. At present there is what appears to be an original single AGM Batt. with a Surepower separator. Also has an Iota DLS-30 charger/converter. 

 

I do not intend to bring a generator or hook up to shore power when on the road. I realize that the charger is wholly inadequate and have a variable output charger for home. 

 

I have ordered the fridge and Propex (from Westy) and just received a Victron BMV712 battery monitor.

 

The FWC is mounted on a 2014 Tacoma which is a good combo so far. I had previously installed an auxiliary battery(flooded)in the engine compartment which is charged through a Blue Sea ML-ACR switch with remote, and 4awg wire run to bed and connected to the camper. I would prefer to not change the underhood stuff. 

 

I want to install a single quality flexible solar panel, (no holes, lightweight) 150w+ and either flooded golf carts or AGMs along with an MPPT controller. 

 

I am waiting to buy and install the batteries and solar until I get the stuff I bought in. 

 

I have a few questions and welcome any comments about this. Will post pics as I go. 

 

I have read HandyBob's solar blog and believe him. 

 

1. Does anyone have an opinion about whether or how the Blue Sea unit will affect charging of the camper batt bank when driving? 

 

2. Should ALL four batteries including the two engine compartment batteries be of the same type? 

 

3. How will the solar charging affect the aux battery in the engine compartment? 

 

4. Should I run a separate 30amp circuit to the camper and bypass the entire aux. batt setup? 

 

5. Any thoughts on the solar plan? esp flexible panel..

 

 

Thanks WTW crew!!

 

Greg 

Greg, regarding your questions:

1) Why are you separating the under-hood batteries?  Was the second battery already designated for non-starting duties?  If not, you might want to think about considering the under-hood batteries dedicated starting batteries and moving your ML-ACR (7622?) duties to separate the camper batteries and starting batteries.  Mine 7622 ACR is mounted right next to the camper batteries

 

2) Ideally, all four batteries should be of the same type, i.e., AGM

 

3) I have 265 Solar on the roof of my Hawk.  When charging is present, the solar charges both the camper and the truck.  When charging is not present, the ACR disconnects the two battery banks

 

4) Likely.  See #1.  30A may not be enough.  I ran 4g cable between the truck and camper, with 100A Blue Sea 285 series breakers on both ends.  I regularly see 45A going from the alternator (gauges in the truck I added) to the camper batteries.  I have seen over 80A on occasion.

 

5) I use a solid panel on the roof, and two 100w flex panels for a portable setup.  Flex panels are nice and light, but need air space under them so they don't get too hot and fail.  Two 160w flex panels on the roof wired in series to a Victron MPPT would be awesome.


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2006 Silverado 3500 ext cab 8' bed LBZ, FASS, EGT delete, 5" exhaust, FTE Resonator, MotorOps 50 HP Tow Tune

2005 Hawk Shell built the way I like it - SOLD

2012 ATC Puma (Grandby) shell - build started!


#7 Yubaman

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 04:09 PM

I will separate two topics. First the Propex:

 

I was using a Buddy until I camped at 10,000 ft at 10 degrees recently. Its oxygen sensor kicked in an the thing refused to work. So everything froze, esp coffee water... I decided I needed a thermostat to keep the hard cold at bay, hence the Propex. Now should be able to ski out of the camper and return to a warm space. FWC has two inline gas connections, I assume for a propane refir and a heater plus spare breakers so that part will be easy. Hoping the propane regulator is adequate. Adding a second 11lb bottle. 

 

Karl at Westy said that the length of the Propex combustion hoses needs to be maintained and is a resource for proper ducting, I hope! He also confirmed that the unit runs up to at least 11,000 ft. 

 

My Eagle has a good spot for it where they normally install an Atwood or similar. 


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#8 Yubaman

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 04:52 PM

Regarding the 12v system the ML-ACR 7622, was intended to separate an aux battery for general 12v camping needs(camper shell before the FWC) and as a backup starting battery. Its all nicely installed under the hood. This is the part that I need to understand. I have little knowledge of electrical. 

 

Currently I have a flooded starter battery, a flooded aux battery and a AGM camper battery. The AGM battery is old so its going to be a core. 4awg to the bed and then FWC uses 8awg in the camper. 

 

I would like to be able to charge all batteries while driving with the alternator and I would like to just use the aux as a backup starting battery. 

 

Any ideas how to set this up assuming the following?:

 

Flooded starter batt and aux batt and AGM camper bank. (flooded batteries are both new)

No need for solar to charge flooded batteries.

7622 can be re-positioned although its been handy when I left a light on in the cab!! Just push the button and you get the second battery. 

200ah of AGM batteries and solar to match. I really don't want to order heavier gas struts and penetrate my unsullied roof except for a hole above the roof junction box, but I will if I cant solve the heat issue for the flexible panels. 

 

I guess one could view the two systems as completely separate except for the need to charge when moving. 


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#9 Yubaman

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 04:55 PM

Just looked at the Victron MPPT. Its not expensive and will link to VictronConnect app which I have working now for monitor. I can look at the charge state from my home office which is very cool. 


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#10 DavidGraves

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 05:13 PM

Howdy

 

Many are using or want to use the latest crop of Flex PV panels that come on the market about a year ago.

 

I have not found any definitive answers to the "heat issue" and would be glad to hear if you have.

 

They are described as designed for boat hard cabins and canvas roofs as well as RV roofs.

 

I would welcome anyone who has them in use to comment about heat.

 

Can one mock up a flex panel to a controller and battery and measure the heat generated during different mounting installations ?

 

David Graves


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