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Yakima Swingdaddy Hitch Mounted Bike Rack

Bikes Swing away Yakima

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#1 oldebondo

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Posted 11 January 2019 - 11:12 PM

I have a 2013 Yakima Bike rack for sale. We have used it with our FWC Eagle setup and most recently with our FWC Hawk setup. I added a step that helps immensely getting in and out of the camper when the rack is opened up to allow access. We recently replaced this one with a new version of the Swingdaddy so I am offering this to WTW readers. It is very heavy and you would want to pick it up in person. I can also show you how I mounted it to the hitch using double cone nuts for an absolutely rigid attachment. I am along the Front Range of Colorado - Longmont. I am asking $200.

 

SwingDaddy_0_small.jpg                     SwingDaddy_3_small.jpg

 


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#2 rkd

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Posted 11 January 2019 - 11:22 PM

Could you post a picture of the "double cone nuts" and describe your setup?  I have a similar swing bike rack that bounces all over the place and would love to tighten it up.  I was even thinking of getting rid of it and trying anew, so you might save me a bunch of $$. Thanks.


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#3 Taku

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Posted 12 January 2019 - 04:04 AM

Have the same bike rack and have used this anti-rattle hitch pin for years:  https://www.etrailer...AyABEgLzuPD_BwE

 

But I would like to see the setup olebondo uses too. Might be even cheaper.


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#4 TGK

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Posted 12 January 2019 - 05:46 AM

I also have the same Yakima bike rack which bounced around quite a bit when mounted on the rear of my F250 with FWC Grandby. I solved that problem by fastening an eye bolt in the left rear FWC jack bracket and running a long length of heavy nylon strap with a camlock buckle around the verticle rack post and then through the eyebolt. I then tightened the strap up and secured with the camlock buckle. Stopped the rack bounce immediately.
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#5 oldebondo

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 07:05 PM

Thanks guys for asking. What I did was took ordinary wheel Lug Nuts (surplus from my S-10) and welded one to a bar and threaded a bolt into the other. I did this for two sets. The tapered faces of the cone nuts pinched and centered the bike rack holes to the hitch pin holes on the truck. This constrained side-to-side motion. To constrain up-and-down motion (rotating about the cone nuts) I added a hardened 5/16 - 18 UNC bolt to holes I drilled in the bottom of the hitch and rack and tightened it for all it was worth. I tried just threading a screw into the bottom of the hitch and pushing on the bottom of the rack but all the bouncing just bent the square tube on the rack and you can see evidence of that.

 

ConeNuts_1.jpg   ConeNuts.jpg

 

This works pretty well, I hope this helps you.

 


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