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Replacing an inefficient Zamp solar kit with a Overland kit

Zamp solar kit Overland solar kit 6 volt batteries

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#41 Vic Harder

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 06:58 PM

We have the same FWC Fleet with the same solar system, batteries and refrigerator set up and are happy with its performance. It does what we expected it to do. 

Expectations are everything.  I have 250AH of battery, and 265W of solar on the roof (plus 200w portable).  At the moment, I would be glad to get 50W out of the roof panels for 4 hours, given the angle of the sun (I'm in Calgary) and the slight dusting of snow on the roof today, even in super bright sunshine.  That's 16AH or so.  I would not expect my rooftop solar to keep up with demand from my furnace/lights, even at a low 5A max total draw at most times. 5 hours at 5A = 25AH, which is what I also see on my Victron BMV.  

 

The OP's batteries and solar array are way smaller, and have rain/cloud to contend with. My system would not cope well in those conditions for more than 4 days, tops.  And installed myself, it was still $3000 USD in parts.  


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#42 roverjohn

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 07:43 PM

The OP sounds like a perfect candidate for a propane fridge. Contrary to a lot of peoples opinions they are amazingly cost effective.

It will reduce your electrical usage considerably and will work even if your batteries are stolen. I like compressor fridges as much as the next guy but in this guys case a propane fridge would solve his problems.

 

If you are staying with electric you can increase the voltage of your array by using a good MPPT controller. They usually allow for a much higher input voltage than a cheap PWM controller. You'll get far more amps into your battery on low light days. Also, go with two 6vdc AGM batteries in series as a single series connected string is always better than paralleled 12vdc batteries

 

I'm an extreme DIYer so the prices I've seen in this thread seem insane to me but I guess that's just me. On a lark I purchased a little Champion 800 watt genset the other day and I'm pretty impressed by it. I think they are available for around $250 maybe less and may solve your issues while you decide what to do. You'll also need some sort of charger unless the $28k you spent included some sort of charger. Even if it did I probably wouldn't trust it as most camper chargers are pretty poor.

 

It does sound to me like FWC is only looking at your wallet and not the bad press you are understandably laying on them here.


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#43 patrkbukly

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Posted 29 May 2019 - 10:32 PM

I love my FWC but the electrical system/design is BAD.

Step 1: Ditch the crappy stock fridge for an ARB or Dometic 12v - that should solve the majority of your power issues. I don’t know why FWC insists on installing the inefficient 2/3 way fridges but they are truly terrible. The only advantage is the front opening.

Step 2: If that doesn’t solve it completely, just take the stock panel off and buy 2x Renogy 100W panels for $260 and install them. You can buy a cable off of Amazon that will connect both panels to the camper plug on top.

Just did that and man what a difference. The Dometic top loads are so efficient. .75 amps is nice.


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#44 So Cal Adventurer

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Posted 01 June 2019 - 08:31 PM

I did my own solar based on Vic and others advice here.

 

I am running the Victron system with both the battery monitor and the MPPT monitor.

 

I am running (2) 175 watt NewPowa panels on the roof for a total of 350 watts.

 

I BRIEFLY had a portable with my old setup, and it was a pain in the ass, big, bulky, and took up a lot of valuable storage.

 

No reason at all, NOT to put a second panel on the roof, Renogy make the Y adapter and it literally takes 2 second to wire it up if you already have one up there.

 

Doing it myself was a fraction of the factory price, and it works flawless, even in crappy conditions.

 

My .02


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#45 Vic Harder

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Posted 02 June 2019 - 01:24 AM

350 watts!  Nice!  Do you camp much in the shade/treed/rainy areas?  I sold my portable setup and am not missing it, yet.  New build on the Puma will have 300+ watts on the roof, and the truck alternator setup is ready to go as well, so am really thinking portable will not be necessary.


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#46 So Cal Adventurer

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Posted 02 June 2019 - 03:00 AM

Vic

 

Yeah, the NewPowa 175 watt panels are the same dimensions as the Renogy 100 watts and fit PERFECTLY between the frame rails and even fit nicely behind the second vent.

 

Highest rated on amazon and very affordable.  Highly recommended.

 

I camp in any conditions, shade, rain, etc...  But I almost never stay in one place more than one night, I am generally always on the move. 

 

The 350 is mainly for when I'm at the house so everything stays tip top, or if camped for extended periods with big draw.

 

SIDENOTE: I have not shut my ARB fridge in the truck off ever in almost three YEARS!  :)


Edited by So Cal Adventurer, 02 June 2019 - 03:11 AM.

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#47 CougarCouple

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Posted 02 June 2019 - 02:22 PM

I'm kinda new to this solar, so I have a question. Looked at the NewPowa 175 and it listed the panel as a polycrstalline , I thought the Monocrystalline Solar Panel is the better technology for collecting the energy?

Thanks Russ
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#48 ckent323

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Posted 02 June 2019 - 04:53 PM

Why not go with semi flexible panels on campers?  They are much lighter and I have seen them up to 160 Watts.

I put two 100 Watt Grape solar panels on our camper roof and my back is surely disappointed I did not use light weight semi flexible panels.  Two 160 Watt panels would be plenty.   

I have thought about doing a retrofit.  I would mount the semi flexible panels on a thin sheet of Aluminum then attach that to my existing mounts which hold the panels about 1" above the camper roof to provide airflow for heat dissipation.


Clarification:  My camper only has lift struts (internal) in the front.  The back is heavy because there are no struts.  I could Install struts but I think I would rather upgrade the panels to semi-rigid and higher wattage rather than add rear struts. As has been pointed out, semi-rigid panels are more expensive.

Craig


Edited by ckent323, 03 June 2019 - 06:07 AM.

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#49 So Cal Adventurer

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Posted 02 June 2019 - 05:44 PM

I'm kinda new to this solar, so I have a question. Looked at the NewPowa 175 and it listed the panel as a polycrstalline , I thought the Monocrystalline Solar Panel is the better technology for collecting the energy?

Thanks Russ

Yes, the ones I am using are mono..

Newpowa 175W 175 Watt 12V... https://www.amazon.c...op_mob_ap_share

CORRECTION, after just checking my amazon orders, I am using one of their 175 watt panels in the front and their 100 watt panel in the rear (to fit with second vent)

So I’m running 275 of solar, NOT 350

Edited by So Cal Adventurer, 02 June 2019 - 05:59 PM.

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#50 So Cal Adventurer

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Posted 02 June 2019 - 05:46 PM

Why not go with semi flexible panels on campers? They are much lighter and I have seen them up to 160 Watts.

I put two 100 Watt Grape solar panels on our camper roof and my back is surely disappointed I did not use light weight semi flexible panels. Two 160 Watt panels would be plenty.

I have thought about doing a retrofit. I would mount the semi flexible panels on a thin sheet of Aluminum then attach that to my existing mounts which hold the panels about 1" above the camper roof to provide airflow for heat dissipation.

Craig


Personally, I don’t see the benefit..

I upgraded my lift struts and the roof takes the same amount of pressure to lift now than it did without solar. That’s a non issue.

For me, I’d prefer tried and true reliable versus something new to the market that hasn’t really seen 4-5 years of extreme weather to prove its durable enough.

That’s my .02
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