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Where to Put Victron Solar Stuff?

Victron Solar

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#1 MountainSufi

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Posted 21 February 2019 - 04:35 PM

Aloha from Jackson Hole!

 

I'm going to have Jackson Hole FWC professionally put in a solar system for me.

 

I've got a 2017 Fleet side dinette, which means the batteries are in a cramped space in the bench underneath the foot of the bed.

 

I'll be installing a 160 watt Overland flexible panel (very efficient). Getting rid of 12 v. Exide gel mats and subbing in two 6 volters. Accouterments will be the new Victron BatteryProtect 12/24V-65AVictron BMV-712 Battery Monitor, and the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 Solar Charge Controller 100V 30A with Bluetooth . A dream system. OUCH, this will involve changing wiring from Zamp friendly to Victron ready.

 

DAMN, that Victron controller is BIG (130X186X70 mm). And heavy (1.3 kg). From discussions here, I know the controller should be "as close as possible to the batteries." I loathe placing it on the backrest of the bench. Perhaps the vertical wall in front of the batteries? Or perhaps moving it a few feet left next to the water/terrible battery monitor currently in place? (where the Victron BMV will go?; is that close enough to be Zen?

 

Where have you mounted your Victron stuff? Are you happy? What would you do differently? Pictures appreciated.

 

Thankx!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#2 Vic Harder

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Posted 21 February 2019 - 04:59 PM

That IS a big controller, both physically and in its specifications.  Are you planning on adding more solar down the road?

 

I mounted all my stuff onto a piece of plywood (like SolarBob), then stuffed it into the battery compartment.  If I have to work on it, I pull out the whole board.  

 

Guages

Power readings with fridge running
 
Stuff mounted on board
revised panel
 
Board stuffed into battery box
inside batt Box

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#3 rando

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Posted 21 February 2019 - 05:24 PM

Agree with Vic (as usual) - that is a way oversized charge controller unless you are planning on adding a ton more solar in the future.  The 75/15 would be fine for your current setup, and the 75/20 would allow for future upgrade up to at least 290W of solar.   the 100/30 is rated for at least 440W of solar.  The real limit to these controllers is the panel short circuit current (Isc) - you can over panel as long as you don't exceed the max Isc for the controller. 

 

 

What is your goal with this work? 

 

There is no magic sauce to the overland solar panels - they are using SunPower Maxeon cells like many other panel manufacturers and contrary to the claims on other threads here won't provide any more power than other similarly rated panels.   The 'higher efficiency' just means the panel is slightly smaller in physical size for the same output power, not that is produces any more power.

 

In terms of mounting, all my electronics are also mounted to a plywood panel that sits on top of my battery.  Everything is connected with quick connects so you can disconnect and pull the whole panel to work on it or rejigger, which I seem to do all to frequently.


Edited by rando, 21 February 2019 - 05:26 PM.

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#4 ckent323

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Posted 21 February 2019 - 07:27 PM

I did the same as Vic and Rando and used a plywood board.  I did mount the solar controller on a metal plate.

 

Everything is mounted to a plywood panel that is under the roll over couch next to the two 6 V batteries.  It is easy to see it and it slides into place on the inner wall of the floor pack so it is easily removable to work on.

Thee are pictures of the install in my gallery


Edited by ckent323, 22 February 2019 - 08:14 PM.

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#5 MountainSufi

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Posted 22 February 2019 - 01:03 AM

Hey gang! Howdy from snowy Jackson Hole!

 

Yup, it's a big ass controller. I bought it only because I'm a rank solar newbie & Denny at JHFWC suggested a 30 amp controller; he's elsewhere until early March & I'm just getting some of the kit lined up; I have doubts he's done much Victron work; he wanted ME to buy this stuff so he wouldn't be responsible...). HEY gang, I may be wrong but this controller does have that bitchin' bluetooth app important for a plug-n-play neophyte like me: I barely know which probe of my voltmeter to stick up a butt! I'm dumb.

 

I need energy to power a CPAP & furnace fan overnight. Overland Solar told me on the phone ONE of their new 160 flexible watt panels will suffice because it's so efficient, but I foresee a 2 way fridge also sucking juice. If I need more I guess I'll have headroom to throw up a 2nd. Hmmmm... mebbe hot water someday? On second thought, I'm gonna start with two 160 watt panels because of this thread.

 

I greatly honor your advice, and appreciate pictures. I'll definitely provide a plywood scrap to mount stuff on top of the batteries (replacing the I presume needless screw-on hatch cover).

 

QUESTION: Looking at Vic's pictured array of guages I can't help but ask in fright, "Do I need separate controllers and monitors for each stinkin' 6 volt battery? 

 

Aren't you glad I didn't try to do this project solo, by scratch???

 

When any of you buckaroos pass thru Jackson Hole, you've got a BBQ steak & beer awaiting!


Edited by MountainSufi, 22 February 2019 - 01:07 AM.

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#6 veryactivelife

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Posted 22 February 2019 - 02:09 PM

As we all agree, it’s a big piece of equipment, but that’s what I have to go with 2 160 watt panels plus a portable 79 watt. It might be a bit overkill since all these panels probably won’t be putting out full tilt at the same time. But, I wanted the ability to add more to the roof if my needs change.

As to location of the controller, they recommend close to the batteries in order for the controller to know the batteries temperature. You can add the Victron battery temperature sensor to your BMV 712 and the BMV will network with the controller to give it the temperature state. You can buy this as a bundle the 712 and potentially save a little money.
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#7 Karlton

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Posted 22 February 2019 - 06:11 PM

Howdy - Vic's set-up is a thing of beauty.  There is a very long thread Vic started with a lot of detail on solar installation. 

 

I was a complete neophyte with solar, but Vic, Rando, Craig, and others gave me some great tips!  

 

I have a solar wiring diagram for my 2017 front dinette Hawk that is more simple than Vic's set-up and it is shown in the thread below in post #13.

 

http://www.wanderthe...very-2017-hawk/

 

Go Pokes!


Edited by Karlton, 22 February 2019 - 06:12 PM.

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#8 Vic Harder

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Posted 22 February 2019 - 06:38 PM

@Karlton - I blush!

 

I have two controllers because I have two solar arrays - on the roof and at the end of 100' of wire for my portable deployments.  Both are running in serial mode to reduce voltage loss.  Karlton did NOT, because his panels are wired in parallel.


Edited by Vic Harder, 22 February 2019 - 07:02 PM.

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#9 ckent323

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Posted 22 February 2019 - 08:37 PM

Mountainsufi,

 

You only need one solar controller as long as the combined panels have a maximum open circuit voltage that is less than the max voltage that the controller will accept and the combined current of all your panels does not exceed the max current of the controller (and even then you would probably not damage it but you would lose the over the limit power).

 

For your Victron 100/30 controller you can use 24 v panels or 12 v panels.   The max open circuit voltage that controller will accommodate  is 100 v and the max current capacity is 30 A.

 

The 160 watt SunpowerGen III semi flexible panel has a 26 V oc (open current) and 7.12 A sc (short circuit). Based on the specs the Victron 100/30 controller should be able to handle up to three of these.

My guess is that you probably don't need more than two of these panels.

Regards,

 

Craig


Edited by ckent323, 22 February 2019 - 08:48 PM.

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#10 ckent323

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Posted 22 February 2019 - 08:47 PM

Additional info from the Victron manual:

 

Installation

● Protect the solar modules from direct light during installation, e.g. cover them. 

● Never touch uninsulated cable ends.

● Use only insulated tools.

● Connections must always be made in the sequence described in section 3.5.

● The installer of the product must provide a means for cable strain relief to prevent the transmission of stress to the connections.
● Provide a means to disconnect all current-carrying conductors of a photovoltaic power source from all other conductors in a building or other structure

 

Cable connection sequence  (cover the solar panels first)

First: connect the battery.

Second: connect the solar array (when connected with reverse polarity, the controller will heat up but will not charge the battery

 

General 

● Mount vertically on a non-flammable substrate, with the power terminals facing downwards. Observe a minimum clearance of 10 cm under and above the product for optimal cooling.

● Mount close to the battery, but never directly above the battery (in order to prevent damage due to gassing of the battery).

● Improper internal temperature compensation (e.g. ambient condition battery and charger not within 5°C) can lead to reduced battery lifetime


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