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Geared Lugnut Wrench


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#11 Machinebuilder

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Posted 09 March 2019 - 01:32 PM

...and loosen the torque setting off when not used.

 

Using a breaker bar and applying a static load (standing on it) smack the head with a heavy hammer... Old fashion impact hammer.

 

I have never used a 12 volt impact hammer, do the good ones work good to break loose lug nuts at 120 foot pounds?

 

I have a Milwaukee, the lighter one. it gets them off my F150 HD when they are properly torqued to 150ftlbs.

 

There is a stronger model and for putting them back on I got a torque stick that limits at 140Ftlbs.

 

the torque multipliers are interesting and I have concidered one but then I found the battery impact gun, I don't use my air impact gun at home any more.


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#12 ntsqd

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Posted 09 March 2019 - 07:33 PM

A comment about torque wrenches; I know clickers are much more convenient to use, but when they go out of calibration there's no way to know. The Top Alcohol Dragster that I used to crew on went through a period where we were eating rod bearings and occasionally mains too. Turned out that the Snap-On clicker torque wrench we were using was badly out of calibration. Once Snap-On re-calibrated it the bearing problems disappeared.

When a beam type torque wrench is out of calibration you bend the little arm to hold "Zero" and you're pretty much good to go. At my work each line has a station that has to be partly taken apart each morning to change an o-ring. I require the tensilely loaded shoulder bolts be torqued on re-assembly to avoid any variation in product produced. And I supplied a beam type torque wrench because of my experiences with the TAD's bearings.

 

I have a DeWalt 1/2" cordless impact and I can't say that I'm unhappy with it, but when I have to replace it because it's NiMH batteries are done (coming soon) I'll buy a Milwaukee.


Edited by ntsqd, 09 March 2019 - 07:33 PM.

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Thom

Where does that road go?




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