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Alaskan expedition trailer


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#21 ntsqd

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Posted 28 July 2019 - 04:53 PM

What I do with our little off-road tent trailer is lower the tongue well below level, set the rear stabilizers, and the raise the tongue to level. I haven't had to do this too many times to get pretty good at setting the rears correctly the first time. I found that guessing a little long works out way better than guessing a little short. Can always crank the tongue up a little bit more.

 

A trick that I learned with our first camper is to put the level on the actual surface that the fridge sits on. On ours I had it inside the lower fridge access door. Leveling the truck (or trailer in this case) didn't mean the the fridge itself was sitting level.


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#22 Harold

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 12:00 AM

What I do with our little off-road tent trailer is lower the tongue well below level, set the rear stabilizers, and the raise the tongue to level. I haven't had to do this too many times to get pretty good at setting the rears correctly the first time. I found that guessing a little long works out way better than guessing a little short. Can always crank the tongue up a little bit more.

 

A trick that I learned with our first camper is to put the level on the actual surface that the fridge sits on. On ours I had it inside the lower fridge access door. Leveling the truck (or trailer in this case) didn't mean the the fridge itself was sitting level.

 

 

I had a great trip out to Bridgeport, CA. and back only have a couple problems. One the heater core in my RC started leaking and I had to bypass it under the hood. Second was the surge brakes on the trailer failed. Under extreme braking the wheel cylinders blew from me trying to not take out Bambi and his family on a blind curve. The tip on setting the landing legs worked well. First time it was a little pain but the second time around it went smooth, thanks. Trailer has been sitting since I returned but I am going to take it back out hopefully next weekend up to the Boise national forest. I have scouted out many nice off grid campsites up above Boise. Haven't repaired the brakes yet but I will pull it with my 02' Dodge Cummins 4WD this trip. The picture was on my return at a rest stop off of US 95 between Smith Valley, NV. and Mason NV. along the Walker river.

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#23 ntsqd

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 03:55 PM

You're welcome, glad it helped.

 

I'm guessing the CTD won't know or care that the trailer is back there.

 

Any plans for your RC to start burning oil instead of fuel? :)


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#24 Keith in Co

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Posted 15 December 2019 - 11:09 PM

Enjoyed your build.   I’ve learned through the school-O-hard-knocks that the rear of Alaskan campers must be supported on both sides or else the sides will begin splaying outwards and the doors will not close properly, or even latch at all.  You could move your diamond plate tool box to the rear (use one on each side) and then shim up to just support the lower camper half (too much and the lower door may not close.

 

 

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#25 Jim in Idaho

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Posted 08 January 2020 - 11:24 PM

Here's a pic of my 10' Alaskan expedition rig stuck in the mud in Wyoming in 2016. It dried up enough I drove out 3 hours later. I've had this rig for over 20 years, and have spent hundreds of nights in it. I just added a 150 watt solar panel to it with adjustable angle and azimuth. This is about my 6th Alaskan.

P5120005 (1024x768)

Edited by Jim in Idaho, 08 January 2020 - 11:28 PM.

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#26 Harold

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 08:40 AM

My old folding five steps were made of steel and quite heavy. They worked great with my Alaskan on my 02 Cummins but were to long for the military Alaskan trailer. Picked up a set of aluminum four steps and the length is perfect for my needs. 

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Edited by Harold, 26 January 2020 - 08:41 AM.

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