26 replies to this topic

[silverstriketim]

Hello, I am an old member but have not been on the site for some time, in 2007 I purchased a hawk, I had it for 10 years, then bought a Travel Trailer, used it for a couple of years and just sold it, I am looking at ordering a new Hawk, does anyone know if the heaters in the new units are any quieter then the ones from way back in 07? Also any info (likes or dislikes) on the new Hawks, your input would be appreciated. 

 

Oh and the new fridges, how long can the fridge (2 way compressor type) run without being plugged in on 12 volt? no solar, without the truck being started, I need to get 5 days.

Edited by silverstriketim, 31 March 2019 - 05:37 AM.

[Vic Harder]

5 days without charging in any way?  That is possible, but you need to invest in expensive batteries.  The stock (new) systems are not up to that.  The new gen of fridges use about 400w in 24 hours  or about 30AH/day.  5 days = 150AH.  With Flooded or AGM lead acid batteries, you want 2x that so the batteries don't discharge below 50% = 300AH.   You can reduce weight by going with LiFePo batteries, but that's also expensive.

 

CarlG just posted his results with LiFePo batteries 

http://www.wanderthe...e-6#entry214137

 

I sized my rig to run 2.5 days without charging, and have 250AH.  So far my batteries have been very under-stressed, but I don't do much else with my batteries.  What else are you going to run besides a fridge? 

[BillTheHiker]

Since you are ordering new, may I ask why not get solar? Agree with Vic on battery issue. Adding solar to run my fridge was best thing I have done to my FWC.

[silverstriketim]

Thanks for your quick responses, I should have elaborated, I am using it on weekends mostly, where I park I do not have power, I also rarely drive my truck during the week, I want to leave the refrigerator on during the weekdays and keep it stocked, I didn’t have solar on my past rig and was hoping to not have to if I didn’t need to, The only thing that would be running during those days would be the refrigerator, Sounds like I need the solar set up, any recommendations with what they offer from the factory?

Edited by silverstriketim, 31 March 2019 - 04:31 PM.

[rando]

Your usage pattern would be really hard on batteries (even if you had enough) with a deep cycle on the batteries every week.    As long as you are parked in the sun it is also the perfect scenario for solar, you get the most power from the solar while the fridge is working the hardest, so the batteries get taxed a lot less. 

 

The current factory system seems to be a pretty decent system and in NV 160W will likely be able to keep the battery topped up with the fridge running.  It is a bit expensive for what it is, so if you are handy and like projects you could install something even better for half the price.  If you are going DIY, you may want to go with 200W to be on the safe side.   But if that sort of project is not your thing, then just get the factory system. 

[strayDog]

You just might be able to squeak by with two days plus a little with the proper batteries (enough amp hours). During the week just plug it into shore power. I've got a 260 watt Zamp portable (7 to 9 amps/hr) plus 100 watt (3/5 amps/hr) on the roof which would probably be over kill for you, but down the road if you need it you could pick up maybe a 80 or 120 amp Zamp portable. Personally as much as I like the quiet of solar, a small generator an hour or two run time during your week end would probably keep everything happy!  As rando stated though I also have found with solar even if  your only making  1to1.5 amps/hr it stresses the battery less which is nice! I would seriously consider evaluating the pros and cons of a good propane fridge. If you get batteries here's a state of charge chart it's recommended to keep the charge in the green:https://modernsurviv...harge-chart.pdf

Edited by strayDog, 02 April 2019 - 01:34 AM.

[Vic Harder]

If you get batteries here's a state of charge chart it's recommended to keep the charge in the green:https://modernsurviv...harge-chart.pdf

Tables like this can be misleading.  You have to measure the voltage when the batteries have been resting for a while, meaning:

1) Not charging

2) No load.

 

That is a rare condition on a camper... it is usually doing one or the other.  A battery monitor that uses a shunt, like the Trimetric/Bogart or the Victron BMV is about the only good way to get an accurate read on SOC.

[strayDog]

Thank you Vic, will do my homework on the Trimetric/Bogart and Victron BMV.

[Vic Harder]

i vote VICtron ;-)

[strayDog]

Thank you