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#1 Vic Harder

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Posted 24 April 2019 - 09:59 PM

Has anyone thought of using 80/20 instead of Yakima/Thule roof rails and racks?  My new to me PUMA has no roof rails installed, and I was thinking of strength/utility ... and 80/20 came to mind.
 
I am thinking 25-2514 for the north/south running rails, and drilling countersunk holes into it to reuse the existing holes in the roof, plus butyl tape or 3m 4200/5200 to secure and seal it to the roof.
 
and 25-2525 for cross rails to mount solar panels and a canoe rack.
 
Thoughts?  
 

 


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#2 ntsqd

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 03:29 AM

Cracks me up, metric sized extrusion priced by the linear inch!

 

Lead times are typically much shorter with the silver/clear ano. Do you really need/want the black?

 

Given that you're on the other side of a border, are there any 80/20 vendors up there? Might shorten your lead time and no import issues.

 

80/20 top tip: Place the t-nut plates with the nub towards the center of extrusion if you think you might ever want to loosen and slide it. If you place them nub up you'll play hell trying to move them after one tightening.


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#3 Vic Harder

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 07:13 AM

Thom, no I don't care about colour.  Yes, there is a vendor in Canada.  

 

Good tip!  

 

Any thoughts on the soundness of the idea vs the usual Yakima/Thule system?  Is 25mm (1") thick enough for a 70" or so span?  It will likely be supporting a canoe in addition to the 40# solar panel.  Any particular fasteners/brackets you would suggest?

 

I'm also looking rigging up an antenna mast that can go up & down as needed.  Thinking the T-profile stuff could be useful here.  I've never played with 80/20, so ideas/critiques are most welcome!


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#4 DavidGraves

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 01:45 PM

Hi Vic

 

I am just a farm boy mechanic but....

 

it seems to me that the Yakima tracks are a pretty good match to the VERY lightweight framing of the camper roof.

 

"engineered products" often seem to match strength and material dimensions...

 

Tracks that are stiffer or more heavy than the framing may lead to framing fatigue or cracking.

 

Just my thoughts.

 

David Graves


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#5 Vic Harder

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 03:39 PM

good thoughts David
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#6 DavidGraves

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 04:36 PM

...and my roof flexes a lot every time I erect it....will your proposed track flex with the roof ?

 

Lots to consider.

 

Exciting news that you are considering a new camper !!


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#7 ntsqd

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 02:48 AM

Flex of the half section will depend on the rigidity of the mounting. Says .03 lbs/in for weight, so 13.6 grams/in making it 952 grams for the 70" piece.

 

I can't see a difference between these two: https://8020.net/25-.../25-4198.html   https://8020.net/25-4197.html

 but one of them might make your antenna plan easier.

 

I tend to use a lot of these: https://8020.net/25-4119.html when joining two extrusions where they're stacked or at right angles to each other.

When there's room and they're at right angles I prefer to use these: https://8020.net/25-2565.html

 


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#8 a8ksh4

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Posted 31 May 2019 - 05:04 PM

This has definitely crossed my mind. If you go through one of their distributors, you can get 10+ ft lengths. If you're camper is old enough to have a flat top, you cold screw a couple of these to the entire length of the top to strengthen it as well proving convenient mounting for solar.

The 1050 rail is only $35 for each ten ft...
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#9 Laud

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Posted 06 February 2020 - 04:05 AM

I know it has been a bit, but did you go with 80/20 for your roof tracks? If so, is there a thread I missed in the search? Considering the same for my camper, but using an adhesive to mount them.
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#10 Vic Harder

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Posted 06 February 2020 - 05:03 AM

i ended up using some tracking I bought from Lee Valley.  Designed for making jigs for woodworking, but it works well and was much less money.  3m 5200 and already existing roof screws are holding it down.  It has held my 330W solar panel on for over 5000 miles.


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