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Another Turnbuckle Question, or Two


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#11 rubberlegs

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 02:50 AM

I also use the half-turn-past-hand-tight method. But instead of a screwdriver, which I used to use, now I use an open-end wrench that's for the jam nut. It fits well in the turnbuckle, and then I can also use it on the nut. I put the wrench in about half way, and can turn the extra 1/2 turn by twisting on each side of the wrench. It clears the camper and truck fairly well. One of them I have to tilt the wrench so instead of 90 degrees to the turnbuckle, it's more like 45 degrees, but it's still easy for this wimp to do the half-turn.

 

I've had the turnbuckles almost completely fall off once, and get very loose another couple times. But the jam nut has almost eliminated any problems. Almost. Once one of them came loose about halfway across the Mojave Road, a several day trip. But the other three were still holdin' great. The jam nut (which didn't come with the installation) has worked quite well, in general.

 

I flipped the turnbuckles so it's easiest to get to the jam nut. To me it's obvious if it's righty-tighty or lefty-loosey-backwards-I'm-cornfused because one way is obviously tightening.


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Tacoma/Fleet 2018.


#12 hebegebe

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 03:54 PM

I finally went with the derringers. They are spendy and a pita to set up but 1 an done! Only had a turnbuckle come off once in a lot of miles but nearly lost my whole rig on a dirt road g-out when the drivers rear lifted and sent me too close to a cliff! They are robust, positive and should be standard equipment from the factory IMHO
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#13 klahanie

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Posted 06 May 2019 - 01:49 AM


After reading some great posts here I decided to add lock nuts to the turnbuckles on my FWC. 

....

How do I know what's tight enough?

Good call on the locknuts.

 

Mounted camper today and noticed I had added a lock washer and flat washer with the locknut, years back. I think these aid in locking down the nut (with less torque transferred to the turnbuckle body) and in holding it tight.

 

I have been tightening by "feel", but because our set up gives good access and at a comfortable position, it was easy to measure the turns. So, what I do is ... turn by hand until the first bit of resistance - indicating the slack is taken up -, hand turn 1/4 revolution, then lock down the nut - holding the turnbuckle still either by hand or with a small lever. 

 

I'll check for turnbuckle looseness and camper movement during the first off highway trip. Might tighten another 1/4 turn but might not need to if there is no looseness or movement.

 

So I guess I'm on the light side of tightening, prob not much more than I could comfortably tighten with my bare hand (my "hand tight" might be first resistance + 1/3 turn). Can't see adding a full turn beyond that - my camper would creak and groan when tightening even with the 5/8 HD rubber fatigue mat compressing underneath (off cuts displayed in pic). And haven't felt the need to go that tight.

 

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Edited by klahanie, 06 May 2019 - 01:51 AM.

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#14 Bill D

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Posted 06 May 2019 - 03:41 AM

In my opinion any tighter than just staying on, is pointless. There are plenty of ways of secure them so they don't back off. You're adding potential energy to the turnbuckles/mounting points, in turn, lowering the amount of kinetic energy the turnbuckle/mounting points will be able to withstand when you go over bumps etc.


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#15 MidAtlantic

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Posted 09 May 2019 - 12:02 PM

In my opinion any tighter than just staying on, is pointless. There are plenty of ways of secure them so they don't back off. You're adding potential energy to the turnbuckles/mounting points, in turn, lowering the amount of kinetic energy the turnbuckle/mounting points will be able to withstand when you go over bumps etc.

Are you suggesting that tightening such a connection will lower it's strength (resistance to failure)?


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#16 Vic Harder

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Posted 09 May 2019 - 03:00 PM

In my opinion any tighter than just staying on, is pointless. There are plenty of ways of secure them so they don't back off. You're adding potential energy to the turnbuckles/mounting points, in turn, lowering the amount of kinetic energy the turnbuckle/mounting points will be able to withstand when you go over bumps etc.

I dunno Bill.  I use the Fasgun derringers, and they are SUPER tight going on.  I'm sure there are quite a few pounds of tension on them and the mounting hardware.  And to add to that, on our first time ever of dismounting the camper, we forgot to take off the derringers... and ended up picking up the truck with the camper jacks before we clued in... those supports/jacks are plenty strong!


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#17 craig333

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Posted 09 May 2019 - 05:06 PM

I"m with bill. More than minimal tension on the turnbuckles just puts unneeded stress on the wood.


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Craig K6JGV_________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5


#18 solinski

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Posted 27 December 2019 - 06:08 PM

Hey Vic, I currently don't have a truck  but pre-planning the installation of my 2005 FWC Eagle on a Tacoma. How much length do you have between your trucks bed eye bolt and the camper eye bolt  for the fastguns?  I am considering the torklift 9000 spring-loaded barrels with the shortest turnbuckle I can find for the interior bed mount, but I'm not sure there is enough length between the Tacoma  truck bed eye bolt and the eagle camper eye bolt. I really like the idea of the Fastguns but even the short model,  14 1/2" to 21 1/2", will probably be too long. My last 2 truck campers I used the Torklift 9000 spring loaded barrels with turnbuckles and exterior truck frame mounted Torklift camper brackets.( Tacoma wtih Six Pac T100 hard sided cabover  and later 2005 FWC Eagle) I was pleased with the holding ability plus ease of tension adjustment. I really like the stress relief and shock absorption that the Torklift Fastguns and Torklift 9000 barrels offer. With all the issues that interior mount non spring loaded  turnbuckles seem to have, I'm ready to reconsider the exterior mount Torklift camper brackets with Torklift 9000 spring barrels. A major negative aspect of the exterior mount tie downs is they increase the chance of snagging an object. The inside truck bed mounting system removes the snagging concerns but such a hassle! Has anyone tried a very small amount of low strength blue Loctite on the turnbuckles to keep them from loosening? I am definitely open to suggestions on FWC mounting systems.

best to all, solinski

ps.I no longer own  the Tacoma and Six Pac camper shown with me in photo.


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#19 Adventurer

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Posted 27 December 2019 - 06:36 PM

My turnbuckles have always loosened significantly, to the point at least one has fallen off.  This has happened every time I've used the camper offroad, except the last time.  I torqued the ever-loving-sh*t out of it the last time and they were still tight when I took the camper off.  It's the only time they've stayed tight.  I'll add a lock-washer/nut next time.


Edited by Adventurer, 27 December 2019 - 06:36 PM.

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#20 Vic Harder

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Posted 27 December 2019 - 11:51 PM

Hey Vic, I currently don't have a truck  but pre-planning the installation of my 2005 FWC Eagle on a Tacoma. How much length do you have between your trucks bed eye bolt and the camper eye bolt  for the fastguns?  I am considering the torklift 9000 spring-loaded barrels with the shortest turnbuckle I can find for the interior bed mount, but I'm not sure there is enough length between the Tacoma  truck bed eye bolt and the eagle camper eye bolt. I really like the idea of the Fastguns but even the short model,  14 1/2" to 21 1/2", will probably be too long. My last 2 truck campers I used the Torklift 9000 spring loaded barrels with turnbuckles and exterior truck frame mounted Torklift camper brackets.( Tacoma wtih Six Pac T100 hard sided cabover  and later 2005 FWC Eagle) I was pleased with the holding ability plus ease of tension adjustment. I really like the stress relief and shock absorption that the Torklift Fastguns and Torklift 9000 barrels offer. With all the issues that interior mount non spring loaded  turnbuckles seem to have, I'm ready to reconsider the exterior mount Torklift camper brackets with Torklift 9000 spring barrels. A major negative aspect of the exterior mount tie downs is they increase the chance of snagging an object. The inside truck bed mounting system removes the snagging concerns but such a hassle! Has anyone tried a very small amount of low strength blue Loctite on the turnbuckles to keep them from loosening? I am definitely open to suggestions on FWC mounting systems.

best to all, solinski

ps.I no longer own  the Tacoma and Six Pac camper shown with me in photo.

The distance between the bed eyebolt and the camper varies, front to rear and also camper to camper, and probably from truck to truck.  I bought a bunch of 1/2 threaded eyebolts and cut them to length after a bunch of trial and error.  Also sometimes use beefy caribiners to make them longer.

 

Also, blue loctite on the threads once I am sure of the length required.  They don't loosen, they don't tear out the eyebolts, and that;s after some pretty rough roads and big dips at speed.  Plus, putting them back on  is super easy, as they are all exactly the right length.


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