18 replies to this topic

[achiral]

You may also wish to check the install/expiration date on the CO and propane detectors. The CCI units had a 5 year expiry. MTI has a replacement cross-check list for an exact fit replacement:

http://www.stadealer...alarms-2012.pdf

 

For finding if your solar is pre-wired, checking for two wire bundles in the driver's side front corner is probably the easiest (see above posts). The wires on our 2006 Grandby terminate not at the battery, but on the driver's side near the water pump and battery separator (see picture).

 

Edited by achiral, 20 July 2019 - 02:34 PM.

[longhorn1]

Congrats

[Ruck_and_Roll]

@achiral; great idea, that is what I am currently working on.  Actually opened up the CO detector and wires were actually cut (someone must have gotten tired of an alarm).  The front panel also said "replace by 2011." The Propane Gas Leak Detector also was mfg in September 2007.  I'm obviously replacing both.

 

It looks like it is prewired.  Found the wires behind the front access panel.  

You may also wish to check the install/expiration date on the CO and propane detectors. The CCI units had a 5 year expiry. MTI has a replacement cross-check list for an exact fit replacement:

http://www.stadealer...alarms-2012.pdf

 

For finding if your solar is pre-wired, checking for two wire bundles in the driver's side front corner is probably the easiest (see above posts). The wires on our 2006 Grandby terminate not at the battery, but on the driver's side near the water pump and battery separator (see picture).

 

[firemen7]

Welcome to the “Cult”, I have enjoyed this group for several years and whole heartily approve.

[achiral]

@achiral; great idea, that is what I am currently working on.  Actually opened up the CO detector and wires were actually cut (someone must have gotten tired of an alarm).  The front panel also said "replace by 2011." The Propane Gas Leak Detector also was mfg in September 2007.  I'm obviously replacing both.

 

It looks like it is prewired.  Found the wires behind the front access panel.  

 

I finally ordered and installed a CO detector and propane detector based on the 'exact fit' charts in that link.

 

Unfortunately, exact fit doesn't appear to mean the same thing for FirstAlert as it does for me. The propane detector was approximately 1/4" less wide than the previous version. I was able to make this still work with the original cutout from 4WC as there was adequate luan material to screw into and the detector mounting flange was wide enough to hide the old screw holes.

 

The new CO detector, on the other hand, had an additional 3/8" depth compared to the old part as well as slightly larger vertical dimensions. Since there is minimal clearance between the rear luan paneling and rear frame, the new detector did not fit flush with the wall. I ended up slightly increasing the size of the cut-out in the luan (~1/2" vertical) and making an exact-fit 3/8" thick frame of plywood to fit the detector cut-out and flange. It looks extremely clean, but did add a couple of hours of work to the replacement of the old detectors.

[Ruck_and_Roll]

I have the exact same problem.  Propane detector fit perfectly, but neither the surface mount or flush mount are good fits on the old detector.  I'll likely go your route and just do a finished wood or plywood cutout to take care of the extra depth.  Do you mind posting a pic?

 

 

I finally ordered and installed a CO detector and propane detector based on the 'exact fit' charts in that link.

 

Unfortunately, exact fit doesn't appear to mean the same thing for FirstAlert as it does for me. The propane detector was approximately 1/4" less wide than the previous version. I was able to make this still work with the original cutout from 4WC as there was adequate luan material to screw into and the detector mounting flange was wide enough to hide the old screw holes.

 

The new CO detector, on the other hand, had an additional 3/8" depth compared to the old part as well as slightly larger vertical dimensions. Since there is minimal clearance between the rear luan paneling and rear frame, the new detector did not fit flush with the wall. I ended up slightly increasing the size of the cut-out in the luan (~1/2" vertical) and making an exact-fit 3/8" thick frame of plywood to fit the detector cut-out and flange. It looks extremely clean, but did add a couple of hours of work to the replacement of the old detectors.

[achiral]

This is 3/8" oak plywood with minimal voids, but something like baltic birch would probably be better. I traced the outline of the detector and the portion behind the flush mount, then used a drill and splinter-free blade on a jig-saw to cut out the plywood frame.

 

4WC used two pieces of 3/4" or so fiberboard behind the luan as a screw backing, so I had to be quite careful about placing the wires and inserting the detector and new plywood frame so that the screws still went into those pieces of fiberboard. The luan is just not enough to retain a #6 wood screw.

 

[Ruck_and_Roll]

That looks great...its next on the project list after solar!

 

This is 3/8" oak plywood with minimal voids, but something like baltic birch would probably be better. I traced the outline of the detector and the portion behind the flush mount, then used a drill and splinter-free blade on a jig-saw to cut out the plywood frame.

 

4WC used two pieces of 3/4" or so fiberboard behind the luan as a screw backing, so I had to be quite careful about placing the wires and inserting the detector and new plywood frame so that the screws still went into those pieces of fiberboard. The luan is just not enough to retain a #6 wood screw.

 

[SmashRocks]

Here’s my two cents on a few of your “issues”.
1. Storage should be pretty simple if you built something out of wood that is sturdy enough. Mine is in full time but if o have to haul crap which is rare I built a rolling dolly out of 4x4, 2x4 and some heavy duty caster wheels from Amazon. Took about an hour to build and I can lower it and wheel it into my garage if needed. If you’re handy enough just built it. You’ll be fine.

2. Electrical isn’t rocket science, just look up a wiring diagram and some videos on how to either solder and/or some water proof connections if you are splicing anything. I know this point doesn’t help, but my two cents

3. A buddy of mine just got a 2010 hawk which was pre wired. He cut a hole in the roof and found the wires to splice to by cutting into the driver side ceiling above the bed. Risky but he nailed it. I can get him to post if you’re interested.

4. Check out my posts for adding crap to the jack brackets. Some angle iron from depot and you could mount a rod vault parallel with the side of the camper. I also recommend a swing arm for a hitch bike rack. Kuat makes a sturdy one and REI has 20% off periodically. Best addition I’ve made for access into the camper with a bike rack.