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Understanding 2004 Eagle electrical system.


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#1 Toddhom

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 04:00 AM

I recently purchased a 2004 Eagle. The prior owner didn't use shore power nor did they have their truck battery hooked up. The camper has a Sharp 80 watt solar panel charging an Optima D34M battery that was installed at a later date. The only power requirements the camper has are the existing lights and an exhaust fan I just installed. The solar panel system is simple. The wires from the panel go to an ASC controller that then goes to the battery. Now here's the part I don't understand. This camper was never set up for solar. The solar battery is installed behind the ice box. They did this because the camper is "pre-wired" for a refrigerator. They used the unused refrigerator wiring to supply 12 volt power to the fuse buss at the refrigerator 25 watt fuse location. I'm wondering why they didn't just connect the power from the battery to the top of the fuse buss at the same location where the truck battery connects to the fuse buss. I'm not sure what will happen when I connect the truck battery. I'm also certain I will be putting in a larger solar panel system because I want a refrigerator. I'm going to need the refrigerator fuse location when I install a refrigerator. Also if I hook up the truck battery wont it end up over charging my solar battery? I hope this is written in a way that can be understood.

Edited by Toddhom, 17 July 2019 - 01:24 AM.

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#2 kmcintyre

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Posted 16 July 2019 - 12:33 PM

Um, a bit confusing.  I think you want your truck battery to charge the camper battery when you are driving.  You'll probably want an isolater (a lot of Blue Sea users on this forum including me).  Now, what to do w/ the solar.  If your Eagle is like mine, the camper battery is under the bench seat.  You'll need all that area where the current battery is for your refrig (assuming you'll put it there).  

 

I'm guessing they wired it the way it is for easy install of the solar.  I'm not sure how many amps a solar panel puts out but when you hook up your truck system 25A probably won't work and the fuse will blow (esp. when the solar and truck are both charging the camper battery).  I can't remember what amp fuses I use but it seems like it's more than that plus you need rather think guage wire from truck to the camper battery.  

 

If you have the right isolator, etc. you won't overcharge the camper battery and it'll protect your truck battery from discharge.  

 

You're going to need to do some new wiring and most of it isn't difficult except for figuring out how to get he solar wiring to the new location for the camper battery via the controller (which you can put under the bench seat or other location where you can see it).

 

I'm not sure if that helps at all.  


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#3 Toddhom

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 01:22 AM

I don't think my camper was ever designed to have a solar panel or an auxiliary battery. Looks to me like the 110 and the 12 volts systems are completely separate. There is no kill switch or battery separator. Looks like the 110 has only one interior receptacle and nothing more. It gets its 110 power from the shore power connection on the outside of the truck. The 12 volt fuse block however has 6 separate fuses for lights, furnace, refrigerator, etc. I want to hook up my truck battery to the camper and I'm not sure how I should do that seeing as how the only battery I have now is the one powered by the solar panel.

Edited by Toddhom, 17 July 2019 - 01:25 AM.

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#4 craig333

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 01:35 AM

You should have a converter. Take the 110 and converts it to 12v. Easy to check, plug in, make sure the main power switch is on see if the lights work. Mine also wasn't designed for solar or camper battery but it was easy enough to wire. 


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Craig KK6AUI _________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5

#5 Toddhom

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 01:36 AM

I also need to understand how, that if I plug my shore power in will it charge my auxiliary battery.


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#6 Toddhom

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 01:39 AM

Craig 333,

 

Not sure I have a converter although you would think so.  What does it look like?  Anybody in the Los Angeles area who understands this stuff that could help me to understand it.  


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#7 craig333

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 01:45 AM

Unless it was shell you should have an Iota DLS-30 converter which also charges the battery (how well depends on if it has the IQ4 module).


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Craig KK6AUI _________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5

#8 Toddhom

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 02:55 AM

Craig 333. unless its hidden I do not have a converter. 


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#9 ckent323

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 03:55 PM

Do you have a 110 cord in a compartment on the outside of the camper? Is there a red pull/push switch low on the cabinets near the entrance door? If so that is the main power switch and I am pretty sure there will be a power converter.

The converter is usually mounted behind the cabinet panel on the driver side. In our camper if I lay down on the floor and look up under the cabinet I can see the converter to the left of the fuse box which is mounted in the the cabinet inside the sliding doors at the bottom (need a flashlight).

Edited by ckent323, 17 July 2019 - 03:57 PM.

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#10 Toddhom

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 06:03 PM

I had a long talk with Aaron at FWC. He is really a great guy who spends time with you. My truck does not have a converter. It’s as I’ve described. 2 separate systems. One 110 and another for 12 volt. The 110 is energised by the shore power connection and powers one 110 receptacle. The 12 volt is powered by the auxiliary battery. It is wired to the fuse block in a really funky way. It sounds what I need to do is buy a battery separator. Runs the wires from both the truck and auxiliary batteries to the separator then from the separator to the fuse block. Do people think I should also buy a converter to allow the shore power to supply 12 volts as well. What devices do people recommend?
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