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Understanding 2004 Eagle electrical system.


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#11 Toddhom

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 06:06 PM

I do have a toggle switch at the entry door but it seems to control the power to the rear light. I don’t think it’s a kill switch.
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#12 ckent323

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Posted 17 July 2019 - 08:30 PM

Toddhom,

Depending on how you plan to camp, it may be cheaper to add a 110 v Ac to 12 v DC converter and a battery separator than upgrading your solar to say a minimum of 200 W with a good controller and a 100 Ah LiFePO4 battery

The places we like to camp typically have no power available so we have 200 W of Solar (which I plan to upgrade to >300 W) and a battery bank with about 100 Ah of usable power. That is typically sufficient for a few days of camping even in cloudy/shady conditions without draining the batteries down too far. Our refrigerator is 3-way and on most trips only running on propane.

However, whenever we camp in an established campground with 110 V power available we plug the camper in and we switch the refrigerator over to 110 v. I have the IQ-4 dongle on the DLS-30 110 v Ac to 12 v DC converter but I don't trust it as much as I do my Victron Solar controller so I don't plug the camper into 110 v for long periods of time.

I have upgraded most of the interior and exterior bulbs to LEDs so the main 12 v power draw sources are the Fantastic fan, heater fan, refrigerator fan, water pump (which we only turn on when using water) and the remaining 12 v fluorescent lights. We tend to not run the fans much. I plan to replace the fluorescent fixtures with LEDs soon.

The key for us to confidently operate mainly on 12 v is having the solar and battery capacity along with the Victron battery monitor. We can ration power if we notice we are pulling more power than the solar is making up each day.

Most of the time the camper is not connected to the truck 12 V (truck has a different kind of battery so I like keeping it isolated from the solar charging). I do have a pigtail connector setup that I can use to readily connect the camper to the truck and I have a BlueSea ACR installed in the truck.

Regards,

Craig

Edited by ckent323, 17 July 2019 - 08:32 PM.

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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#13 Toddhom

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 05:06 PM

At the very least for now I would like to hook up my truck battery to the camper and install a separator. Any recommendations.
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#14 ckent323

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 08:33 PM

BlueSea ACR 7622

https://shop.pkys.co...ACR_p_1670.html

How it works (and more info if you explore the links)

https://www.bluesea....[ACR]_Explained
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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone


#15 Argonaut20

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 09:14 PM

My Eagle is a 2002. The wiring for the camper is pretty simple. Battery is placed under the bench at the front passenger side. The truck is connected to the battery through an isolator located on the wall next to the battery. The wiring from the truck is 12 gauge romex from the truck battery routed along the firewall then down underneath the truck to a (I think Marinco) female connector installed in the side of the truck bed, passenger side. The male connector is attached to 12 gauge romex that goes through the side of the camper to the isolator, then to the battery. The connection to the fuse panel from the battery is dorky but may be factory: 12 gauge romex through the front wall of the camper, across to the driver side where it reenters the camper and comes out inside the cabinet, over the propane box, and finally connects to the fuse panel. The prewiring for the fridge is coiled up in the fridge compartment and may be heavy enough for a compressor fridge (looked like 14 gauge to me). It might work to connect the solar to the feed from the battery to the fuse panel and you figure out where to put the controller since it sounds like the solar is already in that neighborhood. I chose to bring the solar down off the roof to a plug near the battery so I could put the controller next to the battery and have the "factory" wiring do the distribution. It isn't as pretty as running the solar through the roof and down the inside of the camper to the battery, but it works. I kept the 110V circuit separate but put an outlet in for a fridge (I put in a 3 way). There was no converter in the camper to convert 110V to 12 V.


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 2006 Tacoma, '66 AS Caravel,  2002 Eagle

 


#16 Vic Harder

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 02:38 AM

BlueSea ACR 7622

https://shop.pkys.co...ACR_p_1670.html

How it works (and more info if you explore the links)

https://www.bluesea....[ACR]_Explained

+1 on the 7622

 

12g romex is not thick enough to get a good charge from your alternator.  I used 2g in my setup


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2006 Silverado 3500 ext cab 8' bed LBZ, FASS, EGT delete, 5" exhaust, FTE Resonator, MotorOps 50 HP Tow Tune, Lightwerkz.net HID projector Headlights, Edge Insight CTS2

2012 ATC Puma, BattleBorn LiFePo4, Victron MPPT and BMV, AIMS 3000W inverter, Induction cooktop... loving it... 


#17 kmcintyre

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 12:30 PM

+1 on the 7622

 

12g romex is not thick enough to get a good charge from your alternator.  I used 2g in my setup

 I think that's what I used too.


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#18 kmcintyre

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 12:38 PM

I don't think my camper was ever designed to have a solar panel or an auxiliary battery. Looks to me like the 110 and the 12 volts systems are completely separate. There is no kill switch or battery separator. Looks like the 110 has only one interior receptacle and nothing more. It gets its 110 power from the shore power connection on the outside of the truck. The 12 volt fuse block however has 6 separate fuses for lights, furnace, refrigerator, etc. I want to hook up my truck battery to the camper and I'm not sure how I should do that seeing as how the only battery I have now is the one powered by the solar panel.

 

I doubt it as I'm not sure there was much solar used in 2004 and certainly mine doesn't have the wiring (2002).  As someone else mentioned, that switch near the back door is for the outside light.  I have one outlet too and frankly, don't use it much.  I wired some usb ports to the camper battery and put them into the front of the bench seat.  I put a cigarette lighter outlet too; so many things plug into those.  Oh, if you have a 3-way refrig and are plugged into shore power, you can switch the frig to 120V.  If you use the 12V setting your battery will be dead in a short time; refrig pulls a lot of power.  I've never tried switching it to 12V while driving (charging the camper battery while the refrig is discharging); might work if the battery can be charged faster than the refrig draw.  With your solar you might be good.  Lots of postings on how to do the truck to camper battery already so I won't comment other than to say use really thick wire to the camper, use an inline fuse, ground it all and get a good battery isolator.


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#19 Toddhom

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 04:00 PM


BlueSea ACR 7622https://shop.pkys.co...ACR_p_1670.htmlHow it works (and more info if you explore the links)_Explained]https://www.bluesea....Charging_Relay_[ACR]_Explained


Ckent323
Why a Blue Sea ACR-7622. Why not just a simple battery separator.
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#20 ckent323

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Posted 20 July 2019 - 03:28 AM

Toddhom,

https://www.bluesea....Charging_Relays

and

http://info.waytekwi...rsday-throwdown

I replaced a Surepower isolator with the 7622 in my truck. I normally keep it disconnected. Mainly because the battery in the truck is a 12 V regular FLA and the camper batteries are 12 V AGM Deep Cycle with different float voltage.

I like that I can jump start the truck from the camper battery bank if I need to by use of the manual switch which I mounted low in my dash just below the headlight switch and above the emergency brake release.
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1993 Dodge Cummins W-250 Club Cab long bed, 2007 FWC Keystone





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