30 replies to this topic

[radarcontact]

Thinking about replacing my stock Surepower 1314A separator with a Blue Sea ACR.  As others have pointed out on previous threads, the 1314A will go open circuit if the aux batt voltage drops below 12.7V or thereabouts.  I have lots of solar (320W), but in the morning after running the frig and maybe 2 fans at night I'm down to 12.5V or lower.  When I drive away in my truck it may take awhile for the separator to connect and charge the camper batteries. I haven't been impressed with how the truck is charging the batteries when it's running.  I know I'm limited by the standard 10 ga wire that FWC uses, but I think the separator is taking awhile to close.

 

I read this chart from Blue Sea:

 

http://assets.bluese...e/ChooseACR.pdf

 

I don't feel I need the 7622, as the only additional benefit it offers me is the ability to use the camper batteries to start a dead truck battery - but, this would entail replacing the ACR to truck and camper batteries w/2 ga wire.  I run all my electrical through a wiring harness, and carry jumpers that can reach from the camper batteries to the engine compartment.

 

The 7611 has a lower threshold for the aux battery cutoff, 12.25V when the truck is running, and I feel that would cover my needs, as my camper battery voltage is rarely lower than 12.3 in the AM.  What I'm wondering is, will my solar charge my TRUCK battery, if it was low, after my camper batteries are fully charged?  When I read that chart I referenced above, it seems that all of the ACRs have the preset ACR settings which, if I'm reading it right, means that above 13.6V solar could feasibly charge a low truck battery.  BUT, what if my camper batteries float at 13.5V?  Will the solar just cut back on delivering amps like it normally does, and not give any juice to the truck batt, since technically neither battery is at or above 13.6V?  If there's solar power available (with my 320W I almost always have some power, even on cloudy days) will that extra power go to the truck battery if needed?  I'm thinking yes, but not sure.

Edited by radarcontact, 22 August 2019 - 03:33 AM.

[rando]

Yes, the 7611 will charge your truck battery from the camper solar once the camper battery goes over 13V (as will the 7610).  The term you are looking for is 'dual sensing', ie it monitors both battery voltages when the relay is open.    

[radarcontact]

Yes, the 7611 will charge your truck battery from the camper solar once the camper battery goes over 13V (as will the 7610).  The term you are looking for is 'dual sensing', ie it monitors both battery voltages when the relay is open.    

 

Thanks for the reply.  I found a Blue Sea owners manual which had some additional info beyond the chart I posted.  They specify 13V for at least 2 minutes for the relay to close, which I think is another way of saying what you said...

[Oilbrnr]

One thing to remember here, if you are running anything other than flooded lead acid, which is what your trucks charging system is setup for, your house battery life will suffer running a direct linked relay. 

 

AGMs (and obviously LiPo) require a different charging profile.

 

RedArc products are now available in the US and this BCDC is going to be replacing my Blue Sea. They do also offer units that have built in MPPT solar charge controllers, though I feel Victron's offerings are much better in that space.

[radarcontact]

One thing to remember here, if you are running anything other than flooded lead acid, which is what your trucks charging system is setup for, your house battery life will suffer running a direct linked relay. 

 

AGMs (and obviously LiPo) require a different charging profile.

 

RedArc products are now available in the US and this BCDC is going to be replacing my Blue Sea. They do also offer units that have built in MPPT solar charge controllers, though I feel Victron's offerings are much better in that space.

 

I have flooded lead acid in my camper.  I looked at the link you provided...that looks like an interesting option.  They have chargers for both lead acid and other battery types.  I talked w/ Blue Sea today and they told me I couldn't use the smaller ACR in my 3/4 ton, my alternator puts out too much current.  I don't want to use the bigger unit they have, takes up too much room in my cabinet.  

Edited by radarcontact, 22 August 2019 - 04:34 PM.

[rando]

There is no issue with you using the smaller units (7610 or 7611) as with 20+ feet of 10 awg wire there is no way you would see anywhere near the 120A current these ACRs are rated for.  

 

The ML series is completely overkill for this application. 

[radarcontact]

Rando...that's what I told the guy at Blue Sea.  In fact, my 1314A separator is only rated for 120A and I haven't had a problem with that particular feature, although I don't really like the way it works.  He begged to differ.  

Edited by radarcontact, 22 August 2019 - 04:39 PM.

[Vic Harder]

must i ever saw in my gmc 2500 was 90a. which is another reason for choosing the Renogy 40a dcdc converter... a current limited charger. my understanding is that they like their charge current to be below .5C, or 50a in my case

[rando]

Rando...that's what I told the guy at Blue Sea.  In fact, my 1314A separator is only rated for 120A and I haven't had a problem with that particular feature, although I don't really like the way it works.  He begged to differ.  

 

Unfortunately it sounds like he didn't know what he was talking about.   The guy answering the phone is usually a sales guy, who may or more likely may not have a sound understanding of how these things actually work. 

[ntsqd]

120A alternator on our truck. I used 285 Series 80A breakers with the 6ga. cables running to the camper. Never, ever had one pop.

 

I use the BEP Marine VSR's. The single sensing first one was rated 120A and the current dual sensing is rated, I think, either 120A or 140A. Not that it matters with the 80A breakers on both ends.