Furnace won't light
#1
Posted 10 October 2010 - 02:07 AM
#2
Posted 10 October 2010 - 03:09 AM
I went a few rounds with my furnace and have now had the entire furnace out 2x and replaced way too many parts... But it works awesome now!!!
#3
Posted 10 October 2010 - 05:24 AM
#4
Posted 10 October 2010 - 03:08 PM
http://www.fourwh.co...nstructions.pdf
Atwood Hydroflame. Much information at the above links
2003 Ford Ranger FX4 Level II 2013 ATC Bobcat SE "And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years."- Abraham Lincoln http://ski3pin.blogspot.com/
#5
Posted 10 October 2010 - 06:16 PM
If you need parts all the 8500 series use very similar parts. I was able to walk into my local RV place and get an ignitor and circuit board off the shelf.
The first thing I would do is have the circuit board checked by an RV place. I had mine checked at Curtis Trailer in Hillsboro, but any large place should have the test machine, they didn't charge me anything and it only took 2 minutes. You can pop it out of the furnace in just a few minutes. It is only held in by a wing nut. No need to take the entire furnace out or take the camper to the RV place.
I ended up needing a new board and went with a Dinosaur brand board made right here in our own Lincoln City. Plugged it in, and the furnace took off like a champ!!
If you open the outside door it 'should' have the instructions, model info and circuit layout on the inside.
Good luck!
If you need an extra ignitor, I'm pretty sure I have a spare that works....
#6
Posted 11 October 2010 - 01:48 AM
#7
Posted 11 October 2010 - 09:56 AM
What's silly is I ruled out the thermostat because the fan would kick on. I thought it was fine.
Lesson learned...start with the thermostat.
snow
#8
Posted 11 October 2010 - 01:07 PM
I was having the same trouble with mine. I would turn on the thermostat and the fan would kick on but I never got the click, click, click from the ignighter. The fan would cycle three times and each time the burner would not light. I thought for sure the circuit board got damaged from my last trip with the camper it was really dusty where we were and every part of the camper was coated with it. I gave up and took it in to a repair shop. It ended up being a bad thermostat.
What's silly is I ruled out the thermostat because the fan would kick on. I thought it was fine.
Lesson learned...start with the thermostat.
snow
FWIW: My furnace does this once in a while, but it only does this when the battery charge is relatively low...like there's not quite enough juice to do the sparking -- and yet there's enough to run the fan (but I can tell from the sound that the fan is running slower than normal).
FWC Hawk (2005) on a Ford F250 Supercab, 6.8L V10 gas (2000)
#9
Posted 11 October 2010 - 02:14 PM
Perhaps a dumb question but why is it specified the thermostat be at it's lowest setting on start up? If it's warmer than say 50 degrees which I think is the lowest setting nothing should happen even if everything works, correct? I'm having the same issue, fan blows but no ignition. I'm going to start with getting the board tested as indicated above. Mine is an Atwood 8516-IV. It appears the combustion area is sealed for the lack of a better word. If it were clogged with debris not sure how I'd see it or access it?
I say it shouldn't matter where you set it-- the thermostat sends a signal as a relay (12v on or off) and not a rheostat/potentiometer (variable resistance based on the setting) to the furnace. If you didn't care about temp settings you could run the furnace with an on/off switch.
#10
Posted 11 October 2010 - 04:23 PM
FWIW: My furnace does this once in a while, but it only does this when the battery charge is relatively low...like there's not quite enough juice to do the sparking -- and yet there's enough to run the fan (but I can tell from the sound that the fan is running slower than normal).
When it first started I thought the same thing. So when I got a chance I plugged it into shore power and it made no difference. The circuit board led was no help, it just stayed on solid. No flashes, blinks, or S.O.S. signals to be helpful.
Well I do have a spare board now. It's always good to have a spare tucked away just in case.
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