36 replies to this topic

[NorCalSteve]

I have been following the Multiple Charge Sources thread, among others, and am pretty sure I want to run larger wire from the truck battery to the truck bed connector.

First, I have a 100 amp alternator, two 75 AH batteries in the camper, I have a solar panel (80 watt? factory installed)and I want to run the refrigerator on DC while driving. Dometic says the DC heater in the refrigerator is 0.96 ohms, which would be about 13.5 amps when the battery is at 13 volts (about this voltage when driving). From my last drive, I really don't think the battery is getting much of a charge (if any) while driving with the refrigerator on DC. With the refrigerator on, and no sun, if the alternator delivered 20 amps to the camper battery, only about 6.5 amps would be available for charging the battery. The rest would go to the refrigerator.

There are different approaches to upgrading the wiring and I need help. I will have even more question after a few answers and new options are posted but here goes.

I am thinking "adding" 8 gauge to the existing factory 10 gauge wire going from the truck battery to the camper connector (leave the 10AWG and add 8AWG in parallel. Or replacing the 10 gauge with 6 gauge wire.

My local Lowes store has 8 gauge and I am pretty sure 6 gauge wire available by the foot. I am worried that this wire is not designed for the automobile application I need it for. I am looking at something like this. Bottom line, would this work and, if not, what is a good source for 8 and 6 gauge wire?

I think a new connector at the truck bed is needed because my current connector will not accommodate the larger wire (and I hope, current)? Hard to see exactly what is up there. I have seen one or two connectors mentioned here. Does anyone have any input for me on this as well? I am just guessing I need a new connector at the truck bed.

Also, if I missed an existing thread that discusses this, pass it on!

Thanks!

Steve

[JohnF]

leave the 10AWG and add 8AWG in parallel.

If you do this try and gang them together into the same terminal ends. That way if corrosion decreases the efficiency of a terminal it ends up the same for both leads.

what is a good source for 8 and 6 gauge wire?

6 and 8 are common for trolling motors on fishing boats. Look to the marine shops...

Or, use a good set of heavy gauge jumper cables.

I think a new connector...

Check out the plug/socket setup for jumper cables. You could probably see one on your local police cars.

[WyoIDI]

I found 8 ga. wire by the foot, connectors, 30amp inline breakers, a marine grade male/female plug, and a solenoid at my local NAPA and everything works great on my recent rewire. I ran the wires through a black garden hose piece from my marine plug in the bed all the way to the solenoid under the hood and and it seems pretty solid. Might be worth checking out.

[NorCalSteve]

I had hit two auto stores near my home and did not have any luck with wire. I have to admit that I have not looked at plugs at any of those two stores. I see a NAPA store pretty close to me and will see how well they are stocked.

The hose idea for the wires sound great. Just need to make sure it won't melt under the hood. I did replace the breaker under the hood of the truck with a 70 amp breaker. I also replaced the breaker between the battery and the fuse box in the camper with a 70 amp breaker. No special reason for picking 70 amp breakers. 50 amp probably would have been a better choice. I just wanted more than 30 amps. They both are manual reset breakers but I monitor the camper battery voltage while driving so I would know if either breaker tripped.

Thanks!

Steve

[ntsqd]

I used this wire: Ancor 6ga. Duplex It's not the least expensive option, but with the silver plated strands corrosion is much less of a concern.
I have, but have not yet installed, this connector: Anderson Power Cable Connector. Note that you need two of the complete assemblies to make a connection, and also note that connectors of the same size but different colors will not mate together. I plan to use the two holes in the connector to bolt one half to the truck's bed. The other half will come out of the camper via a J-Box screwed to the side of the camper with a weather-tight strain relief.

I miss Chico. CSU-C, ME&M '00

[pods8]

Cheapest source I know for larger gauge flexible stranded wire is likely getting a cheap set of jumper cables of a large gauge and cutting off the ends.

I was also eyeing up this ebay store for tinned 6ga wire: Red and Black

Lots of powerpole connector sizes/combos to choose from here: http://www.powerwerx...son-powerpoles/

[GBW]

I used the Anderson power pole connectors. I really like them, they're a good positive connection. Get a good crimper to attach the wire to the poles. The only thing I need to rig up is a better way to hang the connector when the camper isn't on the truck. It just lays in the box with a plastic bag tapped around it... I ended up using 4ga wire. My local Princess Auto (I'm going to guess Harbour Freight for the southerners??) had welding 4ga cable by the foot, and 4 was the smallest diameter they had. I have it hooked up to my Blue Sea ACR relay under the hood of my truck.

If my battery wasn't a piece of garbage, I'd get a proper DC-DC charger. I'd recommend this system for you. With the ACR, you can wire in a ON/OFF switch and when the battery is nearly charged, you can top it off with your solar. Seeing as the ACR has quite a large capacity, it will easily handle your fridge while driving.

[K7MDL]

I used the Anderson power pole connectors. I really like them, they're a good positive connection. Get a good crimper to attach the wire to the poles. The only thing I need to rig up is a better way to hang the connector when the camper isn't on the truck. It just lays in the box with a plastic bag tapped around it... I ended up using 4ga wire. My local Princess Auto (I'm going to guess Harbour Freight for the southerners??) had welding 4ga cable by the foot, and 4 was the smallest diameter they had. I have it hooked up to my Blue Sea ACR relay under the hood of my truck.

If my battery wasn't a piece of garbage, I'd get a proper DC-DC charger. I'd recommend this system for you. With the ACR, you can wire in a ON/OFF switch and when the battery is nearly charged, you can top it off with your solar. Seeing as the ACR has quite a large capacity, it will easily handle your fridge while driving.

I see no point in using the manual on/off switch for charging control, if the solar has more to offer and the battery is willing to take it, it will just happen. If the truck has more, it will be the one. If the battery is full, it's voltage will rise and none will try to charge it (since they are all regulated). This scenario is being overthought me thinks. :-)

I do have a manual override on my ACR located under my driver seat, with an LED status light. It is handy for testing or powering off the camper for testing or disconnecting when the truck is still running. I run my ham radio gear in the truck off the camper side of the battery also. I can force the ACR to turn off and that is handy at times for my radio work.

[NorCalSteve]

Currently, the Anderson connectors look great. The 120 amp connector can use different wire size contacts which will accept #4 or #6 wire. It is good to know the different color connectors are keyed differently.

The Ancor Marine wire looks expensive ($120+ for my wire run) but you do get both wires and a jacket around them. If I buy #6 wire from a local store, it will be probably around $75+.

Following this and other threads have made me realize that there is still lots to learn. Different batteries, different battery chargers, different solar panel controllers. So many ways to do things. Still lots for me to learn!

I ordered an amp meter so I can attempt a before and after measurement. I don't expect a big improvement in charge current. Since I am only replacing the wire from the battery to the camper connector as well as the connector (for now). The wire going into the camper will still be #10 and I will still loose a few tenths of a volt here.

I will replace the wire first and the connector later. I have a trip to Glacier NP coming up in early July and will probably put off replacing the connector until after I return. I will do a little more research before I either buy the Ancor Marine #6 wire or go with #4 wire.

Thanks everyone for helping me locate all these possible options.

Steve

CSU Chico 1978 moved to Boise for about 30 years and back in Chico. HOT here!
AKA KD7RO (no longer active)

[pods8]

The Ancor Marine wire looks expensive ($120+ for my wire run) but you do get both wires and a jacket around them. If I buy #6 wire from a local store, it will be probably around $75+.

The link I had above was for 6ga tinned wire for $1.24/ft ($2.48/ft for the pair) with free shipping in case you didn't follow it.