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Truck Fridge Portable Fridge


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#101 Ronin

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 09:34 PM

The truckfridge TF51 is both 120Ac and 12V DC. 120AC is the priority when present. We have the DC cord hard wired to its own circuit in the 12V fuse block. We have the 120AC cord wired into it own circuit breaker in the small 120AC box. For pretrip cool down we plug the camper into a wall socket in the garage, turn on the fridge, and pack the truck and camper for the trip. If you don't have 120AC in the camper, you can run a cord out the camper door.

Ski,

Just pulled the 3 way out and have id'd the 12VDC and 110VAC power sources. I'll go ahead and cut off the lighter connector as Squatch has suggested and connect to the original 12V wires. I assume the 12V circuit went through the fuse panel but just to be safe I'll put in an inline fuse. Anyone have any other suggestions on best way to do this I'm all ears.

Thanks


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#102 craig333

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:07 PM

Oops. I have the dc only version and thanks to Ski I looked it up. Its not a T-51, its T-65. Sorry about that.  Wired it into the wiring FWC so kindly put in place behind the ice box.


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#103 Ronin

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:32 PM

Oops. I have the dc only version and thanks to Ski I looked it up. Its not a T-51, its T-65. Sorry about that.  Wired it into the wiring FWC so kindly put in place behind the ice box.

No worries. How did you mount the fridge? Did you buy the Truckfridge slider? How are you securing inside the cabinet?


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#104 Ronin

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 08:59 PM

Hi All,

 

Just did first trip with the TF51 to Saline Valley. Temps there were 80s during the day and 50s at night. Left Grass Valley April 11th with fully charged VMaxx 100ah battery. Spent the 1st night at Keough HS and drove into SV the following AM. Fridge ran almost 3 full days there and I used my fantastic fan only while cooking, and interior light for maybe 2hrs max per evening. Before heading out for home I measured the voltage at 11.96 (40%) . After 9 hr drive home and leaving the fridge on overnight voltage was at 12.49 this AM. This was great news as I really didn't want to add a portable solar system. The fridge ran great but I ditched the wireless thermometer because it seemed to be working for the first 1 1/2 days then kept reading 46 degrees. I was also monitoring temps with a regular fridge thermometer and the temps varied from 36-40 degrees with the setting at 30. Thanks to you all for your recommendation!!


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#105 craig333

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 10:13 PM

My TF is just secured with the four screws on the front. It doesn't seem like that would be enough but it is. Never had an issue with it trying to move. 


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#106 Icutitup

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 06:49 PM

I hope someone can answer this for us. We have a 75 amp/hour battery in our Bobcat and want to get a 12 volt fridge. We are hoping to not add solar.

 

Can anyone tell us what level of fridge we can use with this battery? Also, if we need to get a larger battery what size would work? We have a 12 volt plug in the camper that we want to use to plug in the fridge.

 

We are weekend campers who hike most of the day and come back to camp in the evening. We ususally move every day or two. 

 

Thanks in advance for NC


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#107 Vic Harder

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 05:39 AM

Are you OK with using a cooler style fridge vs the more standard door opening style?  I ask, because they are more efficient, and by nature designed to be portable and use your 12v "cigarette lighter" port.

 

75AH gives you 1/2 that of usable power, or 35AH.  The good ARB/Indel based fridges these days use 2A or less, and run 50% or less per day, even on hot days.  So, 12h x 2A = 24AH.  So you can go one day on your existing battery.

 

You mention driving/moving every other day.  Unless you are driving long, that won't be enough to charge up the battery.  You are unlikely to get more than 5-10A from your alternator over the 10g factory wiring from you alternator to the camper.  Even 10A will take 2.5H of driving to recharge the battery.

 

First step, install a good shunt based meter into your system so you can measure battery health.  Victron BMV712 is my recommendation.  Trimetric 2030 is good too.


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#108 Happyjax

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 02:37 PM

Agreed with Vic on all points.

 

I would suggest you look into solar. it isn't that hard and a 100W panel would probably take care of your needs.

it could even be a portable model if you were concerned with drilling into the roof :)

 

You would probably spend less than a new/second battery and would likely solve the power problem for days you just don't go anywhere:)


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#109 ski3pin

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 03:51 PM

TruckFridge TF51A test results


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#110 Ronin

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 04:00 PM

If your battery is fairly new, It's understandable that you wouldn't want to replace it. If you are going to replace it I'd suggest getting the largest battery that will fit in the compartment. I was able to barely squeeze in a 100 AH battery when I installed my Truckfridge TF51 in my Hawk. I would have modified the compartment if I had to because I really wanted the larger battery to avoid adding solar. Like you I tend to move everyday but I have gone backpacking for 3-4 days without the battery running below 35-40%. I've also been in mid 80s* temps for 3 days with no shade without running the battery down. 

 

I'd suggest trying out your current battery when you get your new fridge and just monitor it to see if you need to upgrade to a larger battery or a solar charger.


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