17 replies to this topic

[menoco]

I’ve a Hawk. On just-completed trip, couldn’t get the Norcold model 323 3-way refrig to ignite and thus couldn’t run refrig on propane. Our Hawk is a 2002, but had been lightly used until I bought is last fall. I see a small spark when i push down igniter.

Did find a similar thread from 2008. The suggestions included using a butane igniter or matches into viewing window, and priming refrig using stove. Is trying to ignite directly with lighter or match OK?

Also, Norcold OM says that propane doesn’t work well or stay lit above 5500 feet. I live at 6,200’. Norcold’s solution is to use AC. Neither a satisfactory or always-available fix.

Only other possible solution is to remove and clean burner orifice. OM says that MUST be done by authorized dealer. We’ve an RV repair shop that’s a Norcold authorized service center, but charges $120/hour. 

Advice?

Armando

 

[billharr]

I remember a thread that had pictures (we love pictures) on cleaning the burner, but could not find it. Did find this one. and  another one

 

Before I spend too much $$$ on it I would look at a DC fridge, fixes all the problems with propane.

 

Bill

[Lighthawk]

I use a 1/2" diameter wire brush that is used for cleaning copper fittings to clean the slots on the stainless pipe that delivers the gas.   http://www.amazon.co...g/dp/B001GBO008

If you bend the handle, then it's possible to poke it inside the housing and clean it without disassembly, but you can do a better job if you do remove the cowling.

 

I have also flicked a bic to ignite the flame when all else failed.  

Edited by Lighthawk, 08 December 2013 - 03:35 AM.

[Riverrunner]

I recently had the same problem.  I did what Lighthawk said and everything is perfect.  I used a stick lighter to get mine going and it kept blowing out so I figured it needed a cleaning.  I took the shield off and used a can of air along with a small wire pipe cleaner.  Just work the brush around a bit and brush the entire burner and blow a little air once in a while.  It lit on the second push of the pizo and never blew out in 4 days.  I was glad it was an easy fix.  I don't think mine had ever been cleaned as it has a lot build up on it. 

[Beach]

Same problem on my used Hawk(05). Previous owner told me never used the propane option on the fridge. It wouldn't light via the sparker, I  removed guard plate and blew out the flame area with compressed air, still no go via sparker. I resorted to using a long tipped grill lighter and had to hold it there for awhile( 1-2 min.), it finally ignited. No problem since, I suspect the dirty flame tip and system needing purging was to blame. If I was buying a new rig, I would opt for the 2 way fridge and a dual battery system with about a 300 watt solar panel.

[menoco]

Thanks. Must admit, however, that IRIL’s 26-step procedure to clean the orifice makes the RV repair shop look like a good option - but then, I don’t believe its tech would do that conscientious a job. Best answer would be hire IRIL to do it!

Lighthawk and others, the wire brush-compressed air definitely worth a try. Will then try again with my long lighter.

The Norcold 323 has almost no controls. High and low on propane only. Once lit, it does seem that best way to use refrig is DC power when on the road and switch to propane at the campsite. Hope I’m not creating another problem, since my camper battery is barely charged enough to dimly light camper after 2,200 miles of driving. The problematic electrical system of my Hawk, however, should be subject of another, future post.

Armando

[Lighthawk]

Armando, the draw on DC is likely the issue with low battery. I run my propane when on the road.i think it has blown out only once.

[leadsled9]

It's an easy thing to do....here's a link where I explain in detail:

 

http://www.wanderthe...ing/#entry39646

[menoco]

leadsled9. That's an excellent link. Don't know how N300 and 323 differ. Will examine mine soon - at least when temp gets above 0, which may not be today.

Lighthawk. On this trip, I don't think poor charging was from DC operation, since I didn't put refrig on DC. I’ve had problems with the electrical system since the beginning. On this trip, I think that the furnace fan basically drained the camper battery, coming on repeatedly even with thermostat at lowest setting (it has no on-off switch), and with gas closed off, and with the black/appliance switch turned off. This happened last winter with the camper off my truck. The only way to shut off furnace fan is to disconnect battery or pull its fuse. Never have found what the black/appliance switch controls. Seems to be only lights. Furnace fans still runs when switch is off.

[leadsled9]

Go down to Wally World and pick up a cheap thermostat like this Hunter unit. 

 

It's programmable and you can turn it on and off with ease.

 

Great upgrade for very little $.

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

•