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Granby set-up Advice

batteries monitors water pumps

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#1 Mongo

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 03:01 AM

Ok, I've been playing with my new to me camper and here's what I've found.

 

Fridge- 

 

I got the burner cleaned out and lit well. Burned on gas for 20 minutes, no cooling.... removed the fridge and turned it upside down overnight as suggested by someone here (WTW).... plugged it in to 110v next day and turned it on... nothing. So I think the fridge may be a lost cause. repair cost would quickly approch new low draw DC fridge. So I'd probably be better served going that route. Speaking of that, I thought it would be nice to have a built in because it would slide right in and look nice, but in reality for that kind of investment it'd be sweet if I could take in in and out too. Use it in the truck or boat, etc... I see some on here using portable cooler style units. I may consider that too, but it would mean a little remodeling. Although they seem to be a little more $$$ too.

 

Furnace- Well I have gas and blowers. After doing a little checking I discovered the sail switch is not closing. So I tought I'd bypass that with 12v (Jumper) and give that a try. Nope. So I thought I wonder if the gas valves even work or are they stuck? putt 12v to them and "click" smell gas..... So I think I need a sail switch and a control board. I think I'll get the Dinosaur brand version. It seems to have good reviews. "better than OE"

 

The water pump was removed. I found the cut wires under the sink and the water lines just spliced.....Nice. So someone have a model for me? shurflo 4008?

 

http://www.americanr...ailer-Camper-RV

 

The battery health and water tank readout has me puzzled. Is there a water tank sending unit? How does this thing monitor the water level? I don't see wiring for that and I haven't pulled the range to inspect the tank. The battery side should work but it's dead. makes me wonder if lightning or something took out the boards in this whole camper.... furnace fridge and battery panel all out??? Heck maybe that's what happened to the original owner? Just know he bought it from a widow. don't know what happened.

 

Power- I have a rough idea of what i'd like to do but would like some expert advice on how to set up my battery power. I have a diesel pickup with dual 150 amp alternators to deliver plenty of current to what ever chargers/inverters I go with. I was planning on 2 house batteries for the camper. Now what charger, I'm not sure. I've had experience with marine chargers and I suppose a guy want's something similar so when I have available shorepower I can replenish/replace/charge the house batteries. I plan on an isolator to isolate the truck batteries. May be this one:

 

http://www.amazon.co...=I1IPM1DINKQ82W

 

But what 120v charger?

 

Also on these DC fridge's is there and advantage to going 24v? Versus (2) 12v parallel?

 

I figure I'll run 6 or 8ga wire from the truck alternator/isolator to house batteries. So I'll have to come up with a big plug for that. Suggestions welcome.

 

Has anyone found a low draw LED type 1156 bulb worth trying in my interior lights? I have 4 1156 bulbs as ceiling lights. I'd like to get that amp draw down but don't want some waste of money CFL type experiment. Or just a replacement fixture that's reasonably priced and warm colored.

 

 

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Edited by Mongo, 09 April 2014 - 01:56 AM.

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#2 Stan@FourWheel

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 03:09 AM

I would make sure the camper is plugged in to shore power, make sure 110/120v circuit breakers are "on", make sure refer is actually plugged in the its 110/120v socket, put some bottled water in the refer, set the temp at the coldest setting (7?), and run it all night so see if the water gets cold?

Edited by Stan@FourWheel, 03 April 2014 - 03:10 AM.

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Stan Kennedy --- Four Wheel Pop-up Campers
1400 Churchill Downs Avenue, Suite A

Woodland, CA 95776
(800) 242-1442 or (530) 666-1442
www.fourwh.com  ---  e-mail = stan@fourwh.com


#3 Stan@FourWheel

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 03:13 AM

Go with a basic inline water pump. You camper does not have a pressurized water system.

Have you tried the reset button on the furnace?
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Stan Kennedy --- Four Wheel Pop-up Campers
1400 Churchill Downs Avenue, Suite A

Woodland, CA 95776
(800) 242-1442 or (530) 666-1442
www.fourwh.com  ---  e-mail = stan@fourwh.com


#4 murphy744

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 12:35 PM

 
 
Has anyone found a low draw LED type 1156 bulb worth trying in my interior lights? I have 4 1156 bulbs as ceiling lights. I'd like to get that amp draw down but don't want some waste of money CFL type experiment. Or just a replacement fixture that's reasonably priced and warm colored.
[/quote]
 
I used these; they worked well.

http://www.amazon.co...E_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
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#5 Riverrunner

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 03:12 PM

 

Has anyone found a low draw LED type 1156 bulb worth trying in my interior lights? I have 4 1156 bulbs as ceiling lights. I'd like to get that amp draw down but don't want some waste of money CFL type experiment. Or just a replacement fixture that's reasonably priced and warm colored.

 

 

Pretty long discussion here on bulbs..... http://www.wanderthe...ights/?hl=bulbs


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#6 Mongo

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 03:18 AM

Go with a basic inline water pump. You camper does not have a pressurized water system.

Have you tried the reset button on the furnace?

I did, it was not tripped. and has power on both ends of it. As for the fridge I put it back in, leveled it and ran on gas for 2 hours and still got absolutely no cooling. So I think that's a lost cause. When I tipped it over i heard the fluid rolling around so I rolled it every which way for a while and left it up side down. So I think I gave that a pretty good go.

 

Pretty long discussion here on bulbs..... http://www.wanderthe...ights/?hl=bulbs

Good stuff on the lights I'll check that out


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#7 bfh4n

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 01:50 PM

Hi Mongo,

 

When I was at the FWC factory, I saw some water tanks on the stock shelves. Each tank had several small sensors at different heights on one face, with wire(s) attached. So it isn't just one water level sensor, and it doesn't seem like there are any moving parts in the tank. (Of course, they may have used a different system in the past.) It seems more likely that your problem is with the monitor module (or circuit board, or whatever) than with the sensors, especially if the battery monitor also doesn't work.

 

Good luck!

 

- Bernard


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#8 ntsqd

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 01:57 AM

Re: a big plug for the large gauge charging cable. I used Anderson Power connectors. I *think* that I used the 120A version.

 

3BY22_AS01?$zmmain$

 

http://www.grainger....BY22?s_pp=false

 

 

http://www.powerwerx...es-120-amp.html


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#9 Mongo

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Posted 08 April 2014 - 03:19 AM

Well I thought I should update this thread in case someone reads this in the future. On the Fridge I let it sit for another day level after giving it a real good roll, tipping it every which way hearing the fluid gargling noises inside it, fired up the gas and left it on level 3 for a couple hours. I stuck a thermometer inside, 27 degrees! So I'm stoked that I may be able to use this after all. Still dead on the 110v and 12v though. I guess if I could only have one it'd be the propane so that works. I checked and both elements have full voltage but they must be burned out...?


Edited by Mongo, 08 April 2014 - 03:20 AM.

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