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Solar without drilling any holes


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#1 DrJ

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 09:21 PM

hawk.JPG

I've wanted to introduce myself to this great community and say thanks.
I have spent months pouring over your posts and ideas. They have been the inspiration for several
modifications I've made to my FWC Hawk.

You guys are truly amazing and have lots of fantastic ideas!

I had a success with solar power that I will share.
You'll have to forgive me if my pictures don't post just right - still learning this process.

The newer FWCs that are set up with a prewired solar plug make life really easy for addition of a solar panel (or 2 in my case). However, I did not want to drill any holes in my roof that could create a water problem down the road. So I went with this idea instead - here's the stats.


220 watts of solar panels (100 watt panel and 120 watt panel)

flexible flat panels made it easy to glue them to the roof (after making sure they work of course!)

wired the panels together using MC4 branch connectors

MPPT Tracer 2210RN Solar Charge Controller for 20 amps

MT5 remote meter to keep track of my panels and battery



The total cost for the install was:

solar panels - $200 for 100 watt, $235 for 120 watt

wiring and MC4 connectors - about $25

MPPT charge controller - $140

MT5 remote - $45

I think my entire project was around $650.


With it I can get 7-10 amps per hour at 14.4 Volts or higher as determined by charge controller.

Even in the winter with poor sun exposure I have been getting about 4-5 amps of charge.

It allows my batteries to always have plenty of charge and run what ever I need to at this point.

The entire project is fairly straightforward and cheaper than the factory install. Plus I was able to get MPPT charge controller and more solar power. I have the dual battery set up in my Hawk. The wiring on the roof needs to be cleaned up a little bit, but the system works great. No problems with wind moving those glued on panels - I live in Southern Idaho and get our fair share of wind. They stay on great.

 

 

solar2.JPG

solar3.JPG

solar5.JPG

solar6.JPG


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#2 craig333

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 09:24 PM

Nice setup.


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#3 brianjwilson

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 10:06 PM

What panels are you using? They look like the flexible base with rigid cells placed on them?
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#4 ETAV8R

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 10:10 PM

Nice work. Welcome to WTW. Do you only hook these up while in camp?


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#5 DrJ

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 10:22 PM

They were flexible solar panels I ordered from eBay.

I believe they were made by Sacred Solar.

There are always some for sale on eBay, but every once and a while you can get them on auction for pretty cheap.

 

I'll attach a picture with the specs on the 120 watt panel.

I'd actually recommend the 120 watt panel over the 100 watt panel if you can get them.

If you can use the MPPT charge controller, it can accept a higher voltage - which the 120 watt panels can send.

This meant loss power loss across the wiring and more amps to my batteries. It's just more efficient.

 

The panels stay on all of the time. I took the camper off for a little while when I installed the panels to make it easier to reach everything. The Hawk stays in a storage unit now when it's not on the truck.

 

solar4.JPG

 

 


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#6 Rob in MT

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 12:02 AM

Looks, good. I like that it's flush with the roof, for tree branches etc. I've read that not having a space underneath diminishes efficiency somewhat, but this looks like a good tradeoff. I saw Homedepot has 100w panels that are 20" by 40", and weigh 6 pounds!

 

How did you glue them down?


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#7 DrJ

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 03:21 AM

There is an added benefit of it being very lightweight and aerodynamic.

I doubt the two panels and wiring together were more than 15 lbs.

The flexible panels are available from several different vendors.
Renogy solar has the 100 watt panels for $200.

http://www.renogy-st...tCode=RNG-100DB

You might consider the 120 watt panels and MPPT controller if you needed more power.
The extra 20 watts is nice, but the real added benefit is the increased voltage.
The 120 watt panel can deliver power at 22 Volts instead of 17-18 volts. This makes the power loss much less over the wiring.

If I had to do it again, I would have used 2 120 watt panels.
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#8 brianjwilson

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Posted 20 April 2014 - 09:21 PM

I have read that the individual cells on these types of panels can get distorted and cupped, from the heat and lack of airflow beneath them. So I will be interested to see how you like them longer term or if it is even an issue.

I really like the flexible adhesive uni-solar or global solar panels personally. The downside is that they are much larger for the wattage, and heavier. But they are much more durable and supposed to work better at lower sun angles.
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#9 DrJ

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Posted 05 May 2014 - 04:32 AM

I spent a week in Nebraska and keep track of my solar preformance. They panels performed fantastic and keep me with fully charged batteries every day. It was quite cold at night (35 F) and my heater ran a lot so I was happy with the extra power. I even opted to run my 3 way fridge on 12 volt DC power just to see if it could keep it. I wouldn't recommend doing this without some serious battery or solar back up, but it seemed to keep up just fine for the day. I was pretty sure it wouldn't make it through the night, so I went back to propane at night. Here is the read out with the fridge on DC power. It was a sunny day and I had great sun exposure at the time - but I'm pretty thrilled with the MPPT charge controller and the amps the panels are putting out. 13.7 amps at 13.3 Volts is great. After a while the volts increased to 14.5 Volts and the amps dropped to around 10.

Solar Controller with 3 way fridge running on DC only

 


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#10 RC Pilot Jim

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 01:45 PM

DrJ,
what glue type and manufacture did you use?

Edited by RC Pilot Jim, 18 August 2014 - 01:46 PM.

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