18 replies to this topic

[camper101]

I don't totally agree with this repair method. The wire FWC uses has thick strands and a semi rigid outer covering. This type of wire is meant for a stationary environment such as your house not a folding roof panel. Just splicing the existing wire is only a temporary fix.

 

When my wiring failed I cut out the section behind the roof panels and replaced it with a pliable wire. So far it's working well.

Reading this and the other 2 threads, I'd like to get some of that pliable/flexible wire. Anybody have suggestions on what to get or what I should search for? Can you get it at Home Depot or the local hardware store?

 

Thank you

[highz]

Reading this and the other 2 threads, I'd like to get some of that pliable/flexible wire. Anybody have suggestions on what to get or what I should search for? Can you get it at Home Depot or the local hardware store?

 

Thank you

I think I got mine from an eBay seller, but just google stranded silicone wire and you should get some hits. Warning: the stuff is expensive, but if you are just splicing short lengths at the bend, it's not too bad. Here's just one link.

[rotti]

Looks good......but I love the name: "Superworm Silicone Wire".

[chnlisle]

I just bought some from Ali (China) Express.   39.5 feet of 8AWG for $40.  I'll let you know how it is whe it arrives.

[camper101]

Thanks guys. Got some silicone wire on the way.

 

Highz did you end up leaving the wires off to the side as you show in this post? I'm finding that the wires, especially with butt connectors, seem to take up a bunch of space between the lifting panels when you put the roof down (as shown here). Not sure if it was like that before or if it matters. I pulled the wires off to the side for now.

[highz]

 

 

Highz did you end up leaving the wires off to the side as you show in this post? I'm finding that the wires, especially with butt connectors, seem to take up a bunch of space between the lifting panels when you put the roof down (as shown here). Not sure if it was like that before or if it matters. I pulled the wires off to the side for now.

 

 

There's just a little wire that sticks out the edge of the folding panels. The connectors I used aren't very bulky and are taped to the back of the lift panels. I haven't noticed any stress on the lift panels or hinge, but I'll take a closer look and report back if I see anything to worry about.
 

[camper101]

Thanks again!

[enelson]

More pictures ...

 

I agree withe the "S" wire routing solution and the superflex wire that others have mentioned.  I'm less than impressed with using duct tape to hold the wire and conduit tube down.  There are other, cost effective, ways to tie down and strain relief this wire run across the hinge that more mechanically sound and impervious to condensation.

[ri-f]

Stan, thank you for your clear pictorial and past/present methods for routing the wire. I think the S-method you described is a good solution, however I would think that using small nylon clamps or a glue gun, would be a better method for routing and securing the wire to the back of the folding panel. I also agree others regarding use of a quality wire where appropriate. The factory wire is stiff and brittle.copper and much easier to crack and break over time, when bent. When rewiring I will always opt for a quality, tinned, marine wire (typically Ancor marine wire). It is significantly more pliable and corrosion resistant with a higher temperature rating as well. I've used different types of marine wire over the years and they are all better than standard house wire for a camper. But marine wire differs from brand to brand, they are not all created equally. Ancor wire is typically more pricey than some of the other discount, marine wire, but it checks all the right boxes. If I was doing a critical repair or wiring job I wouldn't cheap out on the wire. Thanks again for your time valuable support.

 

Rich