18 replies to this topic

[BigAl]

HI all,

I'm new here, I bought a 1972 Alaskan Truck Camper 10' non-cabover, it fits in my 1994 Dodge 3500 CTD Dually.

 

I am trying to start a restoration on it (slowly while still trying to use it during the warmer weather , the immediate needs are:

 

1-The furnace needs to be replaced - Has anyone found a solution to replace it using the existing configuration, rear exhaust, side venting by the door?

 

2-The stove/oven has rusted thru and needs to be replaced - any advice for a replacement (oven not really needed)

 

3-The wiring is a mess - When I plugged into shore power I got shocked touching the 3way fridge

 

4-Does someone have the pin contacts for the truck (4pin flat connector) to the camper's round 4 pin connector? The connector that came with the camper just has bear leads from the 4 pin round connector.

 

5-Any source for a replacement fresh water tank that will fit in the front area under the window?

 

6-The previous owner attached a box at the rear on the access door for the theatford toilet to hold a 10lbs tank, any ideas on how to mount 1 or 2 - 20lbs tank(s)

 

7-Water stains at the bottom of the upper half on both sides, maybe 3 or 4 inches up from the bottom half of the upper section. It was recommened at West Marine to soak the fibers with a diluted mixture of fiberglass epoxy resin.

 

I will edit pics to upload a bit later (too big for uploading right now.

 

Thanks

Al

Edited by BigAl, 28 July 2014 - 01:23 AM.

[Buckwheat]

For the heater Iput in a wave 3 that I hang on the cabinet under the ice box when needed and then store in the cabinet when not in use.

 

For the propane mine came with a 15 lb. (I think) horizontal tank that fits real nicely between the truck bed and camper.

 

My wiring was a mess also some previous owner had attched the 12v and 120v section togather It would shock you if you grounded yourself when it was plugged into 120v power.

 

My water stain was really light i just lightly sanded it an reoiled it with linseed oil.

[jrfromafar]

Congratulations on your new oldie. I have a '72 CO. Just recently added an Olympian 3 Cat heater. My 3 burner cook stove top works fine, but I've often thought if I had to replace it, I'd just put in a portable, so I'd have the option to move it out side if I wanted to.

[Rusty]

Welcome......

 

for the "softer" wood.....works like a charm

 

http://www.rotdoctor...ducts/cpes.html

 

West marine has a regular sysem for soaking wood in epoxy....but CPES works nicely

 

electrical....sounds like a frayed wire across the refer frame...check underneath and at the back...sounds like you need to take a look at the wiring diagrams at the top of the first page

 

If you have an existing oven...look for a replacement....unless your a cabinetman.....?...they come up now and then...replacing the oven makes it a more usable kitchen....I've been working with a non-oven 10' and I wish Granny had picked the oven when she bought this thing.

 

Don't worry about the furnace unless you live in Alaska....I've had mine for nearly 30 years and I've never needed one...a little warming with the stove on a thick piece of steel or cast will last a long time...you'd be surprised how long it'll stay warm inside....

 

there are a few around that have the old heaters...they weren't safe then and they aren't safe now...check the venting on your refer while your at it...if it vents inside check out my gallery...I installed a new norcold 2way...and exhausted it out with some mods to the old wall vent on the top half

 

Water tanks are tough...check with alaskan they may be able to help you if they've kept the same size...I've looked, but not in earnest....one day I'll be in the same boat...I've just modded mine over the years

 

interesting jack system.....and a metal floor frame to the back of the bed.....from the pictures it looks like someone either polished the hydraulics or replaced them with newer larger tubes....

[caseboy]

rusty,

 

i've never used my built-in furnace while camping.it doesn't put out near the heat that my portable wave does, but i would like to have it available as an option in case my wave dies(it's over 25 years old). the furnace seems to work, but not much heat--maybe the home depot bbq regulator? anyway, i'm not very experienced in this stuff-- why are they unsafe?  for now, the wave is great. here in Washington, we've camped in low 30's and solid rain and the wave keeps us toasty.

 

BigAl,

 

on our '64, 10'nco we used to have,the tank was missing, but that space was great for extra storage.we don't use much water--a couple of gallon jugs and a case of singles to drink, and a bucket to get more for dousing campfires. in our '75, 10'co we have now, we still haven't used the tank as i have been too lazy to hook up the electric pump(wiring re-do). i figure you could fit a couple of 2gallon water jugs in that space standing on end and run a tube into on at a time to get by temporarily.

 

thanks,wes

[Rusty]

Wes...I've never used a heater....but then it's mostly just me camping...occasionally wifee goes and then I get questioned about a shower.

 

as far as the water tank goes...I carry a RV filter for filling at "out of the way" places...I use the water tank all the time....water changed after every trip

 

safety has to do with the proper venting of the older heaters....the original refrigerators vented to the interior of the camper...CO accumulation

Edited by Rusty, 30 August 2014 - 03:10 PM.

[BigAl]

I decided to open her up. So far only the driver's side, today is the passenger side-Lets see what surprises await.

 

The wiring has a bit to be desired. My plan is to use the existing 110 Inlet wiring to the breaker box that is mounter over the rear door. I would have liked to replace the solid core wire with stranded wire, as recommended in todays word. 

 

The 12v wiring has no ground wiring, my assumtion is they were using the skin to ground. I will be routing full pair wiring to the Running lights, and will be adding the brake/turn signal lighting control. My Dodge Ram has a 4 Wire connector. I will also be adding a 12 input from the truck's battery for internal led lighting and upper power ports with a battery isolator in the middle.

 

There is rot on the front DS lower corner, seems like it originated thru the shore power and trailer connector penetrations. The 72 10' NCO is insulated with fiberglass insulation with kraft paper on the interior side. I did notice the fiberglass under the windows was wet after doing a power wash on the exterior.

 

My plan is to use spray in foam insulation in those spots after treating the wood to a water proofing/Anti-Rot epoxy. Looks like I will have to replace the front panel with new plywood.I have not taken off the front skin as I have to figure a way to support the top half in the removal.

 

The previous owner did coat the upper half in bakerlite (sp?) some tough stuff. I will be recoating the upper half in it also, great sealant, tough to really get clean. Also the lower interior skin below the windows has extensive water damage. Not sure if I should cut out the lower portion to at the midway point of the next horrizontal support or cut it where it stops being flat. Both side need to be done.

 

Pics to follow

Edited by BigAl, 10 August 2014 - 03:14 PM.

[BigAl]

Rot on DS Corner

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[BigAl]

Top rear opened up, under outer skin

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[BigAl]

Firehose weather stripping

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