Torklift Fast Gun Derringers will fix all your turnbuckle problems, they don't come loose and secure the camper. Add some J hooks, a couple quick links and you are set.
Opened Turnbuckles
#11
Posted 27 November 2014 - 07:56 PM
#12
Posted 28 November 2014 - 12:55 AM
how many pounds of pressure do you use on the Torklifts?
#13
Posted 28 November 2014 - 06:55 PM
I just got done dealing with some “Death Valley” goodness my self that I earned fairly, 50MPH on Racetrack Road and hitting a hole that was in shadow….oops. I busted the front left elevator bolt, egg shelled the bearing cup in a billet upper control arm and ripped an ABS break sensor cable apart when the A arm came off the ball joint…that was fun getting back on in the middle of nowhere.
Craig333, I saw photos of your damage, tough deal, hope you get it fixed soon. I am not convinced it is good enough just to check the turnbuckle tightness as they can be too tight on one if the other loosened and the only way to verify that is to loosen and re-tighten all of them, so that is what I do, re-set all TB’s after a long windy drive or off road.
I also thought about Torklifts but was told that if you *really* off road, then they are actually a bad idea as they pull down on the jackbracket on the frame and can damage it. I still carry motorcycle tie downs and associated hardware in case I break the front E-bolts which have been the only ones I have busted, they sure saved my rear this time when I could not get to the E-bolt due to cabinetry which I have since modified so I can.
I wish there were a better system besides bolting through the floor to keep these campers secure, I might design something and give it a shot. In the meantime the best advice I have is slow it down, make slip alignment marks on your TB’s and re-set the tightness on them fairly often when subjecting the camper to rigorous vertical and lateral loads.
Edited by Kodachrome, 28 November 2014 - 06:56 PM.
#14
Posted 29 November 2014 - 01:49 AM
That is very good advise. Slowing down allows you to come back the same number of times you go out. Driving conservatively & Watching the track ahead while your significant other watches the scenery will enable you to see those sharp rocks, sinkholes & railroad spikes before you encounter them. 4-Wheeling is like Mountaineering, reaching your destination is optional, getting back in mandatory.
#15
Posted 29 November 2014 - 04:48 PM
Wow, not the kind of repair I'd like to do in the middle of nowhere. Glad you had the tools to get it done. What you described may be overkill but after repairing mine I'm not so sure I won't be doing that. Better safe than sorry. I've had my run ins with shadows on the road.
Craig K6JGV_________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5
#16
Posted 01 December 2014 - 03:10 PM
After also breaking a hook on one of our turnbuckles, I replaced them all with forged steel versions and closed threaded loops. It's easy to say "Drive conservatively," but in my case the break was caused by a violent maneuver to avoid a car that had pulled out directly in front of me on a 65mph two-lane road. I'm in favor of upgrading.
#17
Posted 01 December 2014 - 04:55 PM
Have a link Jonathan?
Craig K6JGV_________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5
#18
Posted 01 December 2014 - 07:30 PM
After having several issues with my eyebolts pulling through my camper, I bolted through camper directly to the bed in three corners and use a large turnbuckle with a locking nut in the third corner. I cant bolt through that corner due to the gas tank positioning. It almost a week of measuring, re-measuring and pondering before I drilled my first hole. I am glad I did as it opened up the voids where the turn buckles used to be and allowed me to fit a battery and other items that otherwise would not have fit. Lining up the camper during loading is surprisingly easy.
After also breaking a hook on one of our turnbuckles, I replaced them all with forged steel versions and closed threaded loops. It's easy to say "Drive conservatively," but in my case the break was caused by a violent maneuver to avoid a car that had pulled out directly in front of me on a 65mph two-lane road. I'm in favor of upgrading.
X2
I am a conservative driver also but recently I had to take a fairly extreme evasion maneuver this summer that got my back tires off the ground and I did not have any damage to the camper, bolts or bed. However my cabinets spilled their guts.
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2017 Toyota Tacoma with 2000 FWC Eagle
"The nut behind the wheel is the most important one. Don't forget to snug yourself up every once in a while." John D & ri-f
#19
Posted 02 December 2014 - 03:10 AM
I bought the fork & pin type turn-buckles that we have from McMaster. Same for the forged loop eyes and all metal lock-nuts for the eyes. I've posted links & p/n's in the past but don't have those threads bookmarked. I safety wired the turn-buckles rather than jam-nutting them, but either way works.
Where does that road go?
#20
Posted 02 December 2014 - 04:25 AM
I'm with Kilroy here.
How many of you have actually had (or known of) a FWC falling off the truck because of eye bolt failure?
I've never seen nor heard of it.
My family owns 4 different FWC campers currently of various years and that's never been a problem.
FWC has been using this same tie down idea for a long time. I'm assuming if it didn't work well they would have been
forced into doing something else years ago.
I really liked the idea of beefing up my set up - I'm just not sure if it's necessary.
Maybe Stan would comment on this idea???
2015 Silverado Crew Cab Duramax and 2015 Front Dinette Grandby
One can change the world, it only requires kindness
http://www.truckcamp...g-family-earth/
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