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Adding a lithium Ion battery to FWC


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#191 craig333

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 05:48 PM

I figure by the time my new batteries need replacing I'll just go this route.

http://www.treehugge...ed-by-2013.html


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#192 cdbrow1

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 07:06 PM

I have tracked down the problem - the regulator's CPU is locked up. Had no idea it had a CPU - much less that it could lock up - but there you are. 

 

No matter what the battery voltage is the regulator thinks it's 9.6 volts. Therefore it is going into "full charge" all the time - during one VERY SHORT test it was putting 170 AMPS into the batteries (probably for 15 secs or so - before I shut it off). It is a credit to the battery maker that they took this abuse without complaint. Once the voltage started to rise above the trigger point the BMS would kick in to protect them. 

 

The long term solution is to buy a new regulator since I am out of warranty by 6 months. Short term solution is to bypass the second alternator entirely and just tie all the batteries together. Redundancy is nice sometimes. 

 

From talking with the vendors the problem is not a result of the battery chemistry - but the mounting location I choose for the regulator. They think the spot is too hot - they want me to move it to cooler location. They don't recomend anywhere over 150F - although this is not in the manual anywhere. 


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#193 cdbrow1

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 10:15 PM

I have finally solved the issues I was having. Replacing the regulator did not get the system back to 100% and our extremely wet weather in Nor Cal prevented me from digging in too much until last night. 

 

The problem was again overcharging - although not has bad as before. The Regulator was trying to get the voltage to 14.0, but the voltage kept creeping up (at very low amps) - to the point that the battery BMS would cut in (14.8 volts).

 

Digging into it today I found the problem I had connected my battery combiner incorrectly which was causing the problem.

 

I must have done this when I pulled the regulator a few weeks ago. As soon as I corrected the wiring (and labelled everything properly). It all worked as designed again. Voltage holds at 14.0 as programed and the amps never rise above 0. 

 

Again the issue was not battery related but in this case human error. Even with the problems I was able to spend 2 nights camping in really cold (and windy) weather at new years - just charging the batteries using the factory alternator. 


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#194 craig333

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 11:49 PM

I really need to start labeling my work. Nothing like troubleshooting a few years later and going "now what the heck is this wire?".  When I originally installed the camper battery I must have been been low on wire and used all white 10ga wire. Now it just drives me crazy when I try and trace it. Part of my problem is when I start a project I want to finish it, now. Not wait a day or two  ( or even an hour to drive down the wire store) to make sure I have the stuff to do it properly. Also stems from having a decent collection of stuff at home. Hmmm, needs a 2 /12 inch bolt and all I have is 2" and 3". I guess the 3" will do. That sort of stuff happens and even if intend to put the right part in later I rarely do.


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Craig K6JGV_________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5


#195 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 01:10 AM

I really need to start labeling my work. Nothing like troubleshooting a few years later and going "now what the heck is this wire?".  When I originally installed the camper battery I must have been been low on wire and used all white 10ga wire. Now it just drives me crazy when I try and trace it. Part of my problem is when I start a project I want to finish it, now. Not wait a day or two  ( or even an hour to drive down the wire store) to make sure I have the stuff to do it properly. Also stems from having a decent collection of stuff at home. Hmmm, needs a 2 /12 inch bolt and all I have is 2" and 3". I guess the 3" will do. That sort of stuff happens and even if intend to put the right part in later I rarely do.

Craig your thoughts hit home for me also.

Frank


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#196 PaulT

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 01:23 AM

--snip--
Hmmm, needs a 2 /12 inch bolt and all I have is 2" and 3". I guess the 3" will do. That sort of stuff happens and even if intend to put the right part in later I rarely do.

Doesn't that "failure" fall into the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" bucket? ;)

Paul
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I thought getting old would take longer.

#197 Vic Harder

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 01:45 AM

. Hmmm, needs a 2 /12 inch bolt and all I have is 2" and 3". I guess the 3" will do. That sort of stuff happens and even if intend to put the right part in later I rarely do.

 

cut off wheel quickly makes a 3" bolt = 2 1/2"   ;-)


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#198 craig333

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 05:36 AM

As does a hacksaw. I just wish I documented my projects (other than on WTW) so at least I knew my thought process at the time.


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#199 cdbrow1

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 04:28 PM

As does a hacksaw. I just wish I documented my projects (other than on WTW) so at least I knew my thought process at the time.

 

So true... I have a black wire in the middle of my battery wiring. I put red tape on the ends so I will HOPEFULLY remember it is not a ground wire. 


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#200 cdbrow1

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Posted 30 August 2017 - 04:22 PM

Wanted to provide another update on this thread. 

 

The batteries are still working fine. I had continued problems with my voltage regulator (BalMar 612). I had replaced it once and then the second unit started acting up. The BalMar equipment is very high quality and I don't blame them at all. I switched from a multistage regulation to a fix regulator running 14.1 volts (also a BalMar unit). This has been rock solid for many months. I spent a week dry camping on the California Coast and had zero issues with the setup. I used the microwave and CPAP every night and never saw the battery drop below 80%. 


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