Can the lift system lift 150 pounds?

We are considering purchasing a Hawk Four Wheel Camper. We like the design of the Hawk, with the exception of the lift system, which seems to be the Achilles heel of the Four Wheel Camper line. We are avid canoeists and would like the ability to transport our two solo canoes to the river without taking them off when we stop for the night along the way. We do not know any one in our area (central Washington) who owns a Four Wheel Camper, so can not try it first hand. The combined weight of the two boats and a Yakima rack is about 150 pounds. We are wondering if the lift system is capable of lifting that much weight? Any guidance on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

I have a tank of a canoe and just had it on my FWC. Plus a small BBQ - plus a pretty stout rack.

The only limit to how much the lift system can lift is you Since you do the actual lifting and the panels lock it into place.

I upgraded my camper with lift struts and with my heavy load on top it pops up and down with no problem. You have to lift for about 4 inches then the struts kick in and the effort really decreases. You know you have something up there, but it isn't too much to lift.

Here is a pic from last weekend. We were just stopping for a snack and it was still no big deal to pop the top.

We are considering purchasing a Hawk Four Wheel Camper. We like the design of the Hawk, with the exception of the lift system, which seems to be the Achilles heel of the Four Wheel Camper line. We are avid canoeists and would like the ability to transport our two solo canoes to the river without taking them off when we stop for the night along the way. We do not know any one in our area (central Washington) who owns a Four Wheel Camper, so can not try it first hand. The combined weight of the two boats and a Yakima rack is about 150 pounds. We are wondering if the lift system is capable of lifting that much weight? Any guidance on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome to the group.I have an ATC bobcat (FWC eagle).If you search my posts and others you will find how I worked with my canoe.It's a 12' fiberglass old town and sits atop the factory rack with mods to hold it and make it easier to take off and on.The "lifter thingies" post is very good.Check it out also.

Frank

Should not be a problem with some "roof lifting helper shocks thingys".

We are considering purchasing a Hawk Four Wheel Camper. We like the design of the Hawk, with the exception of the lift system, which seems to be the Achilles heel of the Four Wheel Camper line. We are avid canoeists and would like the ability to transport our two solo canoes to the river without taking them off when we stop for the night along the way. We do not know any one in our area (central Washington) who owns a Four Wheel Camper, so can not try it first hand. The combined weight of the two boats and a Yakima rack is about 150 pounds. We are wondering if the lift system is capable of lifting that much weight? Any guidance on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

The post is under all terrain campers,the 3rd ot 4th page "bobcat with canoe".Hope this helps.

Frank

We are considering purchasing a Hawk Four Wheel Camper. We like the design of the Hawk, with the exception of the lift system, which seems to be the Achilles heel of the Four Wheel Camper line. We are avid canoeists and would like the ability to transport our two solo canoes to the river without taking them off when we stop for the night along the way. We do not know any one in our area (central Washington) who owns a Four Wheel Camper, so can not try it first hand. The combined weight of the two boats and a Yakima rack is about 150 pounds. We are wondering if the lift system is capable of lifting that much weight? Any guidance on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

I have an ATC Panther with a Yakima rack, solar, and have had a raft frame that weighs about 110 # on the top. I would guess I am pretty close to your 150# canoe and rack system weight. Before I added 4- 40# roof assist struts the top was almost impossible to lift without using a roof lifter I designed.

The bigest problem was lowering the top in a controlled manner, I needed to use the lifter to control the lowering. After adding the struts I was able to raise and lower the top without too much trouble but noticed that the roof frame and end panels seemed to be under a lot of strain. The top bowed slightly and the end panels seemed to bow a little as well. If you go this route I would suggest using 60# struts and the full length Yakima tracks( I only have the 60" tracks) and using three crossbars to spread the weight out over the entire roof structure. The factory rack has more attachment points than the Yakima tracks and may be a better choice if you can adapt the Yakima crossbars to the square tubing.

I love my camper and for reasonable loads the rooftop system works fine. The camper websites do state that you will most likely need to remove anything you carry on the top before popping up. In my opinion it is marginal with anything over about 120# even with the assist struts. I just got back from a 1500 mile trip with my whitewater kayak of about 40# on top and being able to pop up at camp or lunch stop is great. I didn't even know the boat was there.

I have been hauling canoes,kayaks and rafts around for over 40 years and will say that my camper isn't the best all around river rig I have ever had but it makes the camping part of a river trip so much nicer that it is worth the trade offs. No more pulling in to a put in in the middle of the night and putting up a tent in the rain, no more swatting bugs while trying to cook! You will love it!

Dsrtrat

Thanks to all for the good info on the lift system. Factory rep Steve has advised us that 60 pound struts are now used for the lift assist. With such powerful struts, it occurs to us that with no top load it would be very difficult to get the top down. Are the struts pinned so they could be removed easily for low load trips? The distortion reported by Dsrtrat of the top and push panels under load is disturbing. Also, when we enlarged the photo in UglyScout's reply, the roof seemed to be depressed at the forward rack bar. Is that a permanent deformation? If we do purchase a Hawk, we will order it with 10 foot Yakima tracks so we can experiment. A third bar, to distribute the load is not an option because our canoes are different shapes and have too much rocker to make three bar contact.
Dick and Kathy

I have an ATC Panther with a Yakima rack, solar, and have had a raft frame that weighs about 110 # on the top. I would guess I am pretty close to your 150# canoe and rack system weight. Before I added 4- 40# roof assist struts the top was almost impossible to lift without using a roof lifter I designed.

The bigest problem was lowering the top in a controlled manner, I needed to use the lifter to control the lowering. After adding the struts I was able to raise and lower the top without too much trouble but noticed that the roof frame and end panels seemed to be under a lot of strain. The top bowed slightly and the end panels seemed to bow a little as well. If you go this route I would suggest using 60# struts and the full length Yakima tracks( I only have the 60" tracks) and using three crossbars to spread the weight out over the entire roof structure. I love my camper and for reasonable loads the rooftop system works fine. The camper websites do state that you will most likely need to remove anything you carry on the top before popping up. In my opinion it is marginal with anything over about 120# even with the assist struts. I just got back from a 1500 mile trip with my whitewater kayak of about 40# on top and being able to pop up at camp or lunch stop is great. I didn't even know the boat was there.

Dsrtrat

My roof had an accident before I purchased it so the passenger side front is bent 100% of the time I'd fix it but it doesn't leak yet....

I see no distortion with the load on top and the roof up. I don't think I would drive around with it up - but I would be fine with it over night.


As for lowering the top with the struts and no load (I have 2, 40# struts at each end):

Before I added my beefy roof rack (1.5"x.120 sq. tube aluminum and a 4'x2'x.120 flat tray)the front would try and pop up before I could run outside and clip it down. With the added weight of the roof rack it isn't a problem unless the wind is blowing just right and it comes in the door and pressurizes the inside - then the top wants to creep up in the front. I used a bungie cord on the inside to hold the top down while I wnet outside and secured the clamps. And once it is all the way down the struts are not trying to open it up, so I see no need to take them off. Now if you had 60# struts and no load it might be a hassle if you had to do the bungie cord/tie down strap dance everytime to keep the top from springing up while you tried to get it secured.

We're another lift thingy equipped Hawk user. I added 4x40# struts last year after struggling with a 70# and 50# kayak plus Yakima rack. We now have two 12' long, 50# boats on the roof. We just returned from four days on the No Cal coast with the 'yaks left on top at night and during lunch breaks. It's a bit of a push to get started (best with both of us pushing) then it does the rest fairly smooth. Coming down is pretty well controlled. With this load or maybe the canoes I might consider a pair of 60# struts rear and 40#'s in the front.


Caspar RV Park July 2011

The front does have a tendency to want to lift up when there's nothing loaded up top. I added a loop of webbing to the push strut on the inside (and also padded the corners with foam pipe insulation before someone barked their forehead! Hey FWC, sharp objects do not belong directly above sleepers compartment! ) When solo I can usually just pull the strut back and the front will collapse and stay put while I pull down the rear. If I've got my partner, she latches the front when I pull it down. It's not a big deal.