1. The two wiring systems are basically the same. For some reason they chose not to pre-cut the wires from the WAGO connector that go to the battery box. So you, your description sounds right.
2. The wires in the back of the battery cabinet should be the other end of the wires that you just cut in step 1. And yes, the red wire would go to the +ve terminal on the battery, the black wire to the ground/bus side of the shunt. The other end of the shunt then goes to your -ve terminal on the battery.... and should be the ONLY wire going to the -ve post on the battery.
3. The b/w LOAD wires are for the solar controller (MPPT) if it has a set of load outputs on it. The other end of the b/w wires would then feed your 12v fuse box. You also need to turn on the LOAD feature in your solar controller
4. Inline fuse between the MPPT and battery? I hope that wire is short and at least 10g. If the wire is short, I don't see a need for a fuse.
5. Big red switches are cool... but, for what reason? Can you say more about where you've seen them used?
Hi Vic,
I was hoping you'd be the one to respond. Your comments and feedback are always so helpful.
Thanks for confirming my thinking for #1 and #2. I hadn't seen or heard anyone mention cutting the wires in any of the other post that I had read so I was a little suspicious, but in the end, it makes sense.
Regarding #3, sounds like I should hook up the load wires to the available spots on the MPPT. Thanks for mentioning the LOAD feature in the solar controller. I assume that's a setting within the Victron Connect app for the MPPT.
Regarding #4, I hadn't seen anyone do it from what I researched, but they mentioned it in the newer video so I was just checking. I'm hoping to use the provided wiring from the factory if it's long enough. Space is a little tight in those battery boxes. Probably should have built a removable panel like you did.
#5, see the attached photo from this thread.
I think it's a manual shut off for the power coming from the solar panels...
Last hurdle (or really first hurdle) is going to be making sure that the polarity from the PV wires is correct. I have a Overland Solar Bugout 130W folding panel with SAE connections. It's supposed to be "plug and play" for FWCs via the Zamp SAE ports, but I've been told to check the polarity before connecting to the MPPT. Basically, after I cut the wiring off the Wago connectors, I hook up the panel to the Zamp port, set the multimeter to voltage, put the red probe on the red wiring and black probe on the black wire. If the reading is positive, I'm all set and proceed red to + and black to -. If the reading is negative, then I connect the black wire in the + and red in the - on the MPPT. Does that sound correct?
Thanks again!!
Bryan