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Alaskan alaskan camper pop up camper

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#11 jrfromafar

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 06:02 AM

I am also wondering how to solve the propane tank issue besides mounting a tank on the back of the camper. I was hoping there would be room in the left wheel well but I only have 7" width. Any such thing as a 6" wide rectangle propane tank?
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#12 verynice

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Posted 23 May 2014 - 02:07 PM

You just screw them in cross ways on the BOTTOM of the camper opposite direction of the bed ribs.  Between bedfloor and camper, maybe 4 2x4s.  BTW, I am jealous, there are so many great spots in your part of the state.  


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 1992 Chevrolet 2500 350 4X4- Utility bed Factory Alaskan Truck/Camper combo-

 1999 Northstar TC800, 2000 Six Pac D850, Many Callen Canopies-

 2004.5 Dodge 2500 5.9D 4x4-2010 Lance 825-Toyo, Thuren, Solar, Hellwig BigWig everything- current rig

 

 


#13 Rusty

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Posted 23 May 2014 - 06:36 PM

Get your 2x4's installed under the camper on the bed...then measure the distance from the bed rail to the camper and make a couple shims to fit between the camper and the rails.  Make sure you take your measurement without any pressure from your tie-downs.

 

the camper is constructed of 1/2" plywood held together by finish nails and screws.....it wasn't designed for torquing down to the truck.

 

I've got a 2003 F250 crew with a 1970 NCO....painted to match the truck....so the wifee appreciated the antiquity and the color....all in good time ;)

 

an alternative shim to the bed of the truck would be two layers of good redwood plywood screwed to the bottom of the camper with a strip of rubber inner tube on the bottom (anti-skid)

 

you need air space under the camper so the fir plywood bottom of the camper won't rot...the redwood ply is treated so it won't rot.

 

Bon Voyage

 

there are smaller propane tanks available...consider installing a horizontal under the bed and quick coupling it to the camper


Edited by Rusty, 23 May 2014 - 06:38 PM.

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2003 Ford 250 Superduty Crew.... 7.3L PowerStroke diesel 1970 10" NCO Alaskan Firestone airbags pulling a 18' Silver Streak runabout


#14 jrfromafar

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Posted 23 May 2014 - 08:54 PM

Just got finished raising my camper another 1 1/2" and put blocks under the tie down brackets onto the truck bed rails - a distance of 4" and yes, the door was pulled apart maybe 5/8" enough so the latch didn't work. Now it works fine. I can't say the blocks look very good -right now it looks like The Grapes of Wrath (lol) but I found out where I can get rubber bumpers for trucks - they wlll do a better job & look nice(er).

I can hear my wife now - she's going to say "you haven't had that truck for over two weeks and already you're using duct tape" !!

Edited by jrfromafar, 23 May 2014 - 08:54 PM.

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#15 jrfromafar

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Posted 23 May 2014 - 09:13 PM

I am thinking that no doubt a camper pulled with tie downs so the door is not square - that can affect the raising / lowering of the top unit.
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#16 jrfromafar

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Posted 24 May 2014 - 04:04 AM

VN & R: typically for me the right way to do something doesn't resonate with me - I did this block fix all wrong - will have to re do it maybe with rubber truck dock bumper blocks mounted to a piece of plywood or sheet metal that I can attach to the bottom of the camper as you suggested.

The dock bumpers are $10.00 each, and I cut them in half so I only need two. Or I'll just use 2x4 & paint them. Anything is better than my first fix :)
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#17 jrfromafar

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Posted 24 May 2014 - 04:08 AM

 BTW, I am jealous, there are so many great spots in your part of the state.


Yes there are - I am closest to Sequoia & Kings Canyon - but so many other places are a long ways away !
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#18 Rusty

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 05:25 PM

maybe you could change your sig picture to the duct tape specialist, "Red Green"  ;)

 

keep in mind...the tiedowns, when used on other campers are used to torque them down to the bed...you'll be using them to "snug" it in and keep it from falling off....they were designed to be bolted down to the bed through the floor

 

 "rubber truck dock bumper blocks"...try saying that fast ten times..... :D 


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2003 Ford 250 Superduty Crew.... 7.3L PowerStroke diesel 1970 10" NCO Alaskan Firestone airbags pulling a 18' Silver Streak runabout


#19 jrfromafar

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 06:19 AM

Duct table & baling wire - it'll fix just about anything .... outside of Congress...

I am surprised - my wife didn't say a word. Guess my fix wasn't as bad as I thought. I'll let it stay 4 now :)
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#20 jrfromafar

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Posted 04 June 2014 - 10:01 PM

Just returned from first trip with camper. Besides a few issues with the camper, I am hooked. Just kept thinking, 'what's better than this?'

Had an issue with the hydraulic pump - didn't bring enough hydraulic jack fluid with me so had to go 40 miles RT to an auto parts house. Glad I made the trip & didn't listen to a local yokel that told me brake fluid will do the same job.

Then I wasn't getting any lift from each pump. Decided to try a few things - one which resulted in a big air bubble (burp??) coming out of the top. After that it worked flawlessly. Thought of posting this experience, and possibly get some input on bleeding a hydraulic system. Also, when traveling, I always tighten the pressure valve. Is this proper?

Also I have an issue with my Wedgewood 3 burner stove. Hardly any pressure - and no adjustment, either on (minimal pressure) or off. Tomorrow I'll do some troubleshooting (new propane regulator) but my gut feeling is telling me this stove ('72) doesn't work with pressure like a regular propane stove. I also smell propane when the tank is turned on - so I turned it off when I wasn't using it.

Any fix it ideas?

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