Reducing weight

Have you accounted for everything, truck modes, gasoline, and people.  Here is my list:

I think there are 2 basic approaches to a well thought out weight management plan for FWC owners.

 

The first is: I have (or want) vehicle X and camper Y...this leaves Z lbs of payload capacity. Now I need to adjust what I carry to suit the vehicle GVW. The original poster seems to fit into this category. 

 

The second is: I have (or want) camper Y, and need to carry Z lbs of payload, therfore I will need vehicle X  in order to have a GVW rating that allows sufficient payload capacity for what I need to carry. This is what I did thanks to advice from FWC.

 

Both approaches are valid. In my case I had originally planned on buying a Toyota Tundra, but when I contacted FWC to order the camper, the salesman asked me a lot of questions about what I was planning to do with the camper and highly recommended a 1 ton truck. Once I started to add up the weight of the gear that was essential to me for the type of travel I was planning I realized that he was correct. I have never regretted going with the 1 ton truck and am thankful to that salesman for the advice. As an added bonus the 1 ton F350 was cheaper than the Tundra and got better mileage.

 

To answer some of the questions posed by Boonie:

 

Edited by OutbacKamper, 25 September 2016 - 04:00 PM.

carld, nice list. Too much effort for me. I just took the loaded camper to the truck scales!

 

cdbrow, My older Ranger II camper has the 1.9cf fridge and a smaller 12 gal water tank. As I posed earlier, if I am going to camp near water ( 90%) I only carry a few gallons and pump stream water from a collapsible bucket through a ceramic filter as needed.  My tankless water heater weighs 11lbs and works great. I am almost always alone. I carry tools, but just the minimum. Sockets, wrenches screw drivers, etc. I built the truck so I pretty much know what I need to fix it if necessary. The truck is turbocharged so I carry 2 extra quarts of engine oil. I carry a tow strap and the hooks and rings mounted on the truck frame. I do not have a winch on this rig, but may add a small one on a receiver so I can use it fore or aft if needed. I take mostly freeze dried foods and no liquid drinks. Aluminum and titanium cookware. Maybe 3gals propane. I house battery wired through a constant duty solenoid with no monitors, etc. No porta potti, no chairs, No camper jacks.The only place I can think of to reduce weight on my rig is the camper steps. I have a modified set of Brophy steps that fold up. A plastic step stool would be lighter. I think the older units were much lighter. I remember the specs were something like 595lbs with an ice box. I think the newer models are heavier than advertised.

 

In contrast, I also have a 1952 Willy's Station Wagon with a small camp trailer that I use for extended hunting trips with wall tent, wood burning stove, 3 way ice chest, table, chair, 8000lb PTO winch, Pull Pal, Hi Lift, etc that weighs in at almost 6800 lbs.

 

cwd

Edited by cwdtmmrs, 25 September 2016 - 04:06 PM.

OutbacKamper is correct, In my lightweight European concept, I have the vehicle, a stretched Jeep YJ, and I have my camper, a FWC Grandby (with no floor pack) narrowed and custom fit to be permanently mounted. So I am now fitting my needs within the remaining cargo carrying capacity. In reading the responses, I am lucky to be able to custom design what  goes into the camper and where to put it, rather than having to live with what and how FWC sells them.

 

I currently have a 26.5' class C motorhome and am limited to where I can go, so I want to prepare my project vehicle appropriately.

 

One of the items that I have noticed disparity on carrying or not is "self recovery equipment". As cdbrow said this is a negative spiral. I want to be prepared for the everyday requirements, but I am thinking; do I want to go where all this equipment is necessary? Who said Discretion is the better part of Valor. Every camper should meet the needs of where you are going, but every driver also needs to say I don't have the equipment to go there so I'll go somewhere else rather than carry 100 lbs of equipment just in case they ever need it. That obviously is an individual decision.

Edited by Boonie, 25 September 2016 - 09:51 PM.

Great discussion guys. Lotsa good info for this newbie.
My thinking ,buying the 3/4 ton and big Northstar, big water tank etc, is to have enough to stay in for 2-3 months. Just hoping it works out, otherwise will be looking for a 20' plus motor home or trailer and jeep with light weight camper to get back in with. Big trade offs , big decisions.

Have you accounted for everything, truck modes, gasoline, and people. Here is my list:

Curb weight includes a full tank of gas. Gas is not part of your payload.

Edited by Ronski, 26 September 2016 - 03:08 AM.

Alley-Kat. A special thanks to you for the link to Camper Builds. After skimming through the ATC camper build of ski3pin, I realized I have a bigger job ahead of me than I thought. Reading all the builds might keep me out of the bars, but as I get started  I may be headed to them! I did learn from your comments and your build thread to think in terms of future changes. Also really loved your cleaver use of space with the drawer cutout around the sink drain. The thought you put into your camper is exactly what I am trying to do. Thanks.

Edited by Boonie, 26 September 2016 - 02:17 AM.

Hi all new guy here.
Interesting thread, some of it got me to where the wife and I are now.
F250 gas motor, full fuel tank and both of us in the truck,7300 lbs if I remember right. 10,000 GVWR. Placed order w/ ATC for the Cougar, so I'm spitballing here but thinking we are going to be right at full when all said and done. Each item adds up fast. Someone earlier made the comment that they would just off road where all the recovery gear was not needed. I don't think it works that way, especially if you go it alone. Still trying to figure what we're going to take, wife wants one of those spot type tracking devices and I kinda like that idea. I've done some off roading before. A little stuck you can get out of, hard stuck not so easy, even with the gear. There has to be close to 500lbs of recovery gear with what some are carrying. So here we are with a vehicle that can "legally" carry what we are putting in it. Getting 5 tons un stuck sounds like a lot of work. I see a lot of photos of ya'lls rigs out in the country, mostly looks like forest service roads, and access roads.

Can some of you who have used your recovery gear, speak up I think it would be a great help.

Thanks Russ

Basic principle is the better the truck the worse the stuck. As far as weight goes recovery gear and setting up your truck for off-road is heavy. Traveling alone is risky. But it sure is fun to get into some rugged terrain.

... There has to be close to 500lbs of recovery gear with what some are carrying...Can some of you who have used your recovery gear, speak up I think it would be a great help...

I think if you factor in recovery gear, tools and "off road modifications" I would be well over 500lbs:

 

winch & accesories (shackles, straps, extensions, etc) +150

winch bumper +50

snorkel +15

skid plates +20

suspension lift +40

compressor & accessories +35

Hi-Lift & accessories +60

traction mats +20

shovel +4

axe +4

saw +2

larger (heavier) tires +60

tool kit +25

socket set +10

 

I am sure I have forgotten a few items, but you get the idea...according to my very rough estimate, that is 495 lb of extra weight.