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Hodakaguy's Overland Tacoma Builds - FWC Combo

Tacoma FWC Hodakaguy OME BP51 Dakar FIrestone Airbags Daystar Cradles

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#21 Hodakaguy

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 01:48 AM

Today's Progress.

Started back on the drivers side rear.  Here I'm installing the new bracket for the lower shock mount.  A new hole is required here as part of the mount.

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Shock installed, I love the integrated rock shields for the shaft on the shock....all shocks should come with this feature!  I put a dab with a yellow paint pen on each bolt that has been torqued to final specs.  Some bolts will need to wait until the truck is setting on the tires again before receiving final torque.

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Rear shock installed...minus the res mount.

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The upper assembly for the Firestone air bags.  The instructions show the big silver through bolt turned around the other way but it extends to far that way and will interfere with the reservoir mount, if your running both airbags and OME shocks the bolt needs to be oriented in this direction.

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Reservoir mount installed

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Getting ready to have the tires mounted on the new wheels, we removed my fathers front wheel to verify clearance on the calipers before diving in and having the tires installed.   Calipers cleared so mounting is a go!

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Tires mounted up.  The wheels are AX201 16"x8" Zero Off Set, Tires are BFG KO2 285/75-R16.   Here the tire is just leaned up against the hub to get a sneak peak on how it's going to look, the tires won't stick out this much once mounted properly.  I really like the look against the Quicksand.

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RCI Sliders showed up today, these babies are very solid and quality looks very good as well.  Can't wait to get them painted and on the truck.

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Got the passenger side rear spring installed and the upper portion of the air bags loose fit.  That's enough for today.

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Hodakaguy


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My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE

My Unimog U1300L Build:  CLICK HERE

My VW Syncro Westy Build:  CLICK HERE

My Tacoma/FWC  Builds: CLICK HERE

Ride Report - In Memory Of The Crewmen: CLICK HERE


#22 Hodakaguy

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 01:48 AM

Not a lot of time to work on the truck today, I did manage to finish up the passenger side rear suspension early this morning.

Passenger side all buttoned up except for the lower air bag mounts/cradles.

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The lower air bag mount is suppose to rest on the axle on the outer edge but with the thicker Dakar spring pack it hangs in the air 3/4" off the axle (bracket is sitting on backwards for picture).   I will modify the lower brackets to get proper contact back before mounting.

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Going to place the sliders up onto the truck for a sneak peak....

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Well at this point my super squirrel powers took over and I jumped off the slider project and used the rest of my limited time to whip up a power brake bleeder.  I'll use this bleeder when I install the new brake lines and re-install the calipers.  These bleeders work really slick, way better than a vacuum bleeder and lets you easily bleed the system by yourself.  The tank adds a bit of air pressure to the reservoir and when you open the bleeder it pushes the fluid out without having to pump the brakes, just need to check the fluid level in the reservoir often so you don't run low and push air into the system again.   You can buy purpose built units but they are around $50 for the cheapest ones, I already had an extra small weed sprayer so I just needed a spare brake reservoir cap.  My spare cap came in today so it's time to get it ready for the upcoming brake work.

New brake reservoir cap and brass fitting that will connect the cap to the weed sprayer.

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Hole drilled in the new cap.

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The brass fitting was threaded into the plastic cap with two part epoxy to ensure a tight seal.  Cap is now ready to use.

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Ready to bleed some brakes!  (I'll add a small pressure gauge on the tank body to monitor air pressure)

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More to come....

Hodakaguy


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My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE

My Unimog U1300L Build:  CLICK HERE

My VW Syncro Westy Build:  CLICK HERE

My Tacoma/FWC  Builds: CLICK HERE

Ride Report - In Memory Of The Crewmen: CLICK HERE


#23 Hodakaguy

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 11:39 PM

Up early this morning to get the Raptor liner sprayed on the sliders....but quickly got derailed when I realized I didn't have the 2K bare metal primer that I thought I had.  Oh well...on to something else today.

Time to modify the lower mount for the air bags.  The OEM mount is designed to rest on the axle on one side, it has a notch cut into the bracket to clear the curvature of the axle.  When fitting properly the mount rests on the axle with two sharp points....probably not a lot of pressure here but I still don't like it.    With the addition of the Dakar springs (This spring pack is thicker) it left the mounts support leg dangling in the air by 3/4" so modifications will have to be made to get it back to original design.  

Firestone lower air bag mount sitting on the Dakar spring pack, this support leg is suppose to be resting on the axle (the mount is turned around in this picture for reference). 

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Starting to fabricate the new mounting leg, this piece of pipe will become the saddle at the bottom of the support.  Here using a wrap around to mark a cut line.  I like the idea of a saddle with any pressure being spread out instead of being focused on a sharp point. 

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Checking fit, I tweaked the curve a bit for an exact fit.  Still needing a little tweak in this picture.

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Laying out the new longer support leg. 

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Parts laid out, edges beveled and ready for welding.

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Attaching the support base.  Side Note....I absolutely love MagSwitches!  These are super strong magnets that you can turn on and off with a switch on top.  They are soooooo handy for holding parts when fabricating. 

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I started fabricating parts for the passenger side while my father commenced tig welding the mounts back together. 

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Testing fit

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Mount primed/painted, Daystar cradle installed and everything bolted into place. 

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Alignment looks way off when the springs are at full droop, but it comes back into alignment as the springs are compressed. 

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More to come....

Hodakaguy


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My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE

My Unimog U1300L Build:  CLICK HERE

My VW Syncro Westy Build:  CLICK HERE

My Tacoma/FWC  Builds: CLICK HERE

Ride Report - In Memory Of The Crewmen: CLICK HERE


#24 Hodakaguy

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 03:45 AM

Received the differentials back from the gear shop.  Can't wait to go for a drive and try out the new gearing!

The old cast carrier removed from the front diff.  I ended up having an ARB air locker installed in the front diff while it was apart, no difference in labor at this point so now's the time if your gonna do it. 

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Air fitting installed in the front diff for the ARB locker. 

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This is the drivers side needle bearing in the OEM front carrier that ends up causing vibrations in lifted Tacoma's, If lifting a Tacoma it's wise to change out this bearing with a ECGS Bushing which will fix most vibration issues in the front drive line.  The ARB locker carrier doesn't use this needle bearing so no need to change anything if installing this unit.  I had already ordered the ECGS bushing and had it on hand then changed my mind on installing the locker.....guess I'll have a ECGS bushing up for sale soon :-)

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The same area on the drivers side of the ARB Carrier. 

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Shiny new REM Polished 4:88 Nitro gears installed in the rear diff. 

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Gasket surface cleaned on the diff housing, getting ready to install the new gasket. 

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Rear Diff re-installed and torqued, locker connectors fitted and guard installed.   

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Axles torqued to specs and brake cables re-attached. 

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Installed the modified passenger side lower air bag mount/cradle.

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Received new lug nuts in the mail.  The new aluminum wheels need taper style lug nuts (can't use the factory nuts), I stopped by a local tire store and they gave me a Gorilla spline drive lug nut to try out on the wheel at home.  With the new wheel in place I wasn't happy with the amount of threads that was protruding from the wheel and engaging the lug nut, time for some searching.  I ended up ordering the same lug nuts in extended reach that add another 1/4" of engagement with the threads....much better.

New Gorilla spline drive ET lug nuts

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The standard lug next to the ET version.  Much improved thread engagement. 

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Testing fit in the wheel.  Plenty of space left to allow the wheel to fully seat.   There is also slight clearance between the lug nut and wheel to allow proper centering. 

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More to come.......

Hodakaguy


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My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE

My Unimog U1300L Build:  CLICK HERE

My VW Syncro Westy Build:  CLICK HERE

My Tacoma/FWC  Builds: CLICK HERE

Ride Report - In Memory Of The Crewmen: CLICK HERE


#25 Hodakaguy

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 12:36 AM

Still chipping away....Today's Progress.

Installed and torqued the rear drive line in place.

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Installed the drop spacers on the center carrier bracket.

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Here's the OEM brake lines at full extension, pretty tight but could probably live with it.  I'm installing extended braided steel lines in their place.

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The new extended braided line next to the factory line

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New brake lines installed, not near as tight at full extension.

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Continued Below.....


  • 0

My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE

My Unimog U1300L Build:  CLICK HERE

My VW Syncro Westy Build:  CLICK HERE

My Tacoma/FWC  Builds: CLICK HERE

Ride Report - In Memory Of The Crewmen: CLICK HERE


#26 Hodakaguy

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 12:37 AM

Continued from above.....

 

Getting ready to install the fill lines for the air bags.  I'll be routing the air fittings out the two upper rear license plate bolts, this will allow for easy filling of the bags and having them separate will allow both side to side adjustment for load leveling as well as up/down adjustment.  The metal edge just above the holes for the plate (Red Arrows) needs to be slightly bent upwards to allow clearance for the brass fill fittings.
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Hole enlarged and Air fitting installed
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Both air fittings installed, they also secure the plate to the truck.
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Air lines installed.  I secured the tubing out of the way on the factory wiring harness.
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On the passenger side the tubing is fairly close to the exhaust as it comes out of the air bag.  There should be plenty of air space to keep the tubing cool but I added a piece of heat reflective tape to that section of tubing as an extra measure.

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Rear wheels installed and torqued.  Still sitting on the jack stands, I'm liking the look of these wheels.

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Getting the front diff ready to re-install.  Here the supports have been re-attached and torqued.
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Running the air tubing for the front locker, here just loosely getting it into position.
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Getting ready to re-install the diff.  Applied painters tape to the open ends to keep out dirt and nasties during the install process.
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Shot of my ugly mug re-attaching the vent lines and bracket, it's one of those areas that you can easily see but is very difficult to get to.

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Front diff installed.

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Front drive line re-installed and torqued.

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Air locker tubing installed and securely routed up into the engine bay.  Excess tubing placed in the rear corner of the engine bay for now.

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More to come.....

Hodakaguy


  • 0

My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE

My Unimog U1300L Build:  CLICK HERE

My VW Syncro Westy Build:  CLICK HERE

My Tacoma/FWC  Builds: CLICK HERE

Ride Report - In Memory Of The Crewmen: CLICK HERE


#27 ETAV8R

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 09:06 PM

You mentioned the vibes coming from the front drive line. I'm a bit confused. Do you mean the front diff? I've had vibes since I began changing suspension for my truck. The way it is now is the worst and usually happens within the first couple gear changes. I have shims and the carrier bearing drop but still get the crazy shudders. It is worse without the camper on the truck. There are a couple threads on Tacoma World about this but no definite solution or cause from what I've read.


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#28 Hodakaguy

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 09:26 PM

You mentioned the vibes coming from the front drive line. I'm a bit confused. Do you mean the front diff? I've had vibes since I began changing suspension for my truck. The way it is now is the worst and usually happens within the first couple gear changes. I have shims and the carrier bearing drop but still get the crazy shudders. It is worse without the camper on the truck. There are a couple threads on Tacoma World about this but no definite solution or cause from what I've read.

 

Yeah the problem is the drivers side front needle bearing in the front diff.  Try driving the truck and when you get the vibration put the truck in 4wd.  Does the vibration go away when it 4wd?  If so then it's the needle bearing causing the issue.  You can replace the bearing with the ECGS bushing and it will fix the issue.  More on the bushing here:  https://www.tacomawo...-follow.472081/

 

Hope that helps

Hodakaguy


  • 1

My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE

My Unimog U1300L Build:  CLICK HERE

My VW Syncro Westy Build:  CLICK HERE

My Tacoma/FWC  Builds: CLICK HERE

Ride Report - In Memory Of The Crewmen: CLICK HERE


#29 Hodakaguy

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 09:27 PM


Up early to start back on the truck.

Snagged a cheap HF weed sprayer to use as a pressure bleeder (nice and clean inside unlike my old one) and added a pressure gauge to the tank.  This will turn out to be a waste of time....more on that later :-)

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Next up started assembly of the drivers side front end.  Axle cleaned, greased and installed back in the Diff. 

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Drivers side back together and new braided brake hose installed.

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Passenger side diff seal cleaned and ready for grease.

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Using a large brass drift to seat the axles back into the front diff.

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Passenger side back together again.

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Axle nuts torqued and keepers installed.

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Bleeding the brakes.  Here I'm setting up the pressure bleeder and getting ready to start the bleeding process.  Right after this picture was taken I read in the Toyota shop manual that you use the trucks built in pump to bleed the brakes and this air bleeder is completely unnecessary, probably should have read that before building this unit LOL.  Bleeding brakes is super simple, Fill the reservoir, power on the ignition and pump the brakes 20 times, allowing the pump motor to shut down on each stroke.  Repeat this process 4 times total then with the ignition on bleed the brakes like you would normally do, I had my father press the pedal while I did the bleeding.  The power pump moves a lot of fluid and the bleeding process was done in no time.

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Next up fill the Diffs.  I had this oil left from my Unimog project, it will work perfect for the initial short flush period.

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Front and back diffs topped off.

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One mile stone down.  Lots of work to go still.

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And out in the wild again.  Crappy pics here as I was in a hurry and the lighting wasn't the best.

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Took it on a real quick test drive and everything seems to be functioning just the way it should be, no weird codes etc.   Only did a short drive but I think I'm going to like these gears!

Lot's more work to go.....More to come soon.....

Hodakaguy


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My 4wd Sprinter Build: CLICK HERE

My Unimog U1300L Build:  CLICK HERE

My VW Syncro Westy Build:  CLICK HERE

My Tacoma/FWC  Builds: CLICK HERE

Ride Report - In Memory Of The Crewmen: CLICK HERE


#30 longhorn1

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 10:02 PM

Very nice
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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Tacoma, FWC, Hodakaguy, OME, BP51, Dakar, FIrestone, Airbags, Daystar, Cradles

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