Vic's new 2012 Puma build

Nice job Vic, I like how neat and finished the doors and drawer fronts turned out. Really came together nice. If I remember right, I think you like the open feel of a shell, but curious if you're doing a dinette at all? I vote keeping colors lighter, more uplifting feeling to me. Keep up the good work!

Poky

Thanks for the tips and kind and uplifting comments.  Both are very useful, especially when the occasional "Oh, cr@p" dumb @ss move is made, like today...   I cut the 1/8" maple for the big window side of the camper, but got it inside out, so .... one more chunk of nice wood is toast.  Only happens once in a while, but it does.

Yes, we are planning a dinette.  Have done lots of reading here, and thought of doing what Bill Harr did, but that only leaves 24" in the aisle which feels very cramped to me.  Also thought about using the tops of old office chairs and boat seat swivels on a box/storage base, but the swivel motion is impeded by the shape of the seats and the space available.  (seats are not round, so even just a 45* turn will make the space required bigger).

Current thinking is we will use flip-up hinges so that the seats can be stored and flipped up when needed.  We already have a Lagun table leg, so that will go in there too.

Not a cabinet maker.  Actually, these are the first drawers I have ever built.  We decided drawers would be nicer than all the simple cabinets we put into our Hawk build.  Now we have lots of each.

The front cabinets, where the window used to be, are 13" deep.  With the original 47" cab-over bed, that gives us 60" = queen size, without ever having to slide the bed in or out.  And still as much floor space as a Hawk.  All the benefits of the flat-deck Hawk without the extra height and air gap between the cab roof and camper.

The flush mount unit is the sink.  The single burner induction cooktop is stored in the left most top drawer.  It will pull out and be placed on the counter top, or on the picnic table.  

30 gal water tank is at the front, at the bottom of all those cabinets.  

The propane tanks also sit at the front (drivers side) between the front of the camper and the 130L Truckfridge.  3000w AIMS Power pure sine wave inverter sits under the fridge.

Dual 100AH Battleborn batteries are on top of the water tank, in that longer flip down opening at the front of the camper.

The Heater is the larger Propex.  The cost difference was minimal, and we certainly didn't feel like the smaller Propex (in the smaller Hawk) was too powerful.  This one also has the upgraded digital thermostat.

The floor is insulated with 1/2" hard insulation, and just the subfloor on their now during construction.  Really nice cushioned luxury vinyl sheet waiting to be installed.

Walls with 1" hard insulation, and all the walls were taped to ensure no air movement through the gaps/walls.  

Got the window back in tonight.  Feels good to see it coming together instead of further and further apart!  A few more bits of woodworking to do, and then all the wiring/plumbing starts!

Vic

As I get older I find myself cursing dark (meaning black) suitcases and containers. I lose sight of smaller items inside of them. So if it were me I’d keep the cabinets light in color inside the camper. I like the natural maple you’ve used. I agree with your use of drawers, I even like old school sliding panels used by ATC. I’ve had too many doors fly open in our MH. Keep up the good work!

Vic,

Are you a cabinet maker in this or a previous life? Your build looks really nice.

 

That green box looks like a Propex 2800 heater. Did you find that you need more heat than the 2000?

Is that location its installation location or just storage while you build out your unit?

 

How do you plan to plumb it into propane?

 

Where does the exhaust exit?

 

Paul

Paul, that is the final location for the heater.  Propane fitting faces the front of the camper.  Propane box is 44" away at the front of the camper.  Plumbing will be super easy.

Combustion exhaust and intake air fitting go through the subfloor towards the truck bed.  One will be routed forwards, the other to the back.

Vic take a piece of scrap cabinet wood and try different stains out. I like a hickory mix with maple. But try a bunch. To reduce blotching. Pretreat the ply with Sealcoat wax-less shellac mixed 50% with alcohol.... it will raise the grain so a 220 sanding makes big difference. The stain will go on evenly.

OK, so when I went online to research where to buy this shellac, I found the article below.  As an expert yourself, I bet you have a thought or two to add?

https://www.woodshop...s-all-just-hype

Which of these colors would you pick for maple?

https://www.rustoleu...atco/danish-oil

Which of these colors would you pick for maple?

 

https://www.rustoleu...atco/danish-oil

Natural or Fruitwood are the two I like, in that order.

I guess all I can say is, I know 300 refinishers who would disagree :-) . Sealcoat is found in most hardware stores. All it does for plywood  is slow the absorption rate for stain (one could also use 'sizing' which is nothing more than watered down Elmers glue. If you have ever stained a soft wood or a highly featured one... the stain does not go in evenly.... it can look blotchy and muddy. ...'sealing' the pores allows a more consistent absorption.  

My advice would be to get two test boards.... treat one with sealcoat cut 50%... then make test strips of your possible;le color stains (or dyes).

You will convince yourself....who is... the most important guy in this project! 

Test strips allow a mistake not to happen.

I guess all I can say is, I know 300 refinishers who would disagree :-) . Sealcoat is found in most hardware stores. All it does for plywood  is slow the absorption rate for stain (one could also use 'sizing' which is nothing more than watered down Elmers glue. If you have ever stained a soft wood or a highly featured one... the stain does not go in evenly.... it can look blotchy and muddy. ...'sealing' the pores allows a more consistent absorption.  

My advice would be to get two test boards.... treat one with sealcoat cut 50%... then make test strips of your possible;le color stains (or dyes).

You will convince yourself....who is... the most important guy in this project! 

Test strips allow a mistake not to happen.

excellent advice.  Thanks!

I haven't seen a "Hickory" stain color swatch anywhere yet... if you could describe that to me or post a link, that would be super!

Edited by Vic Harder, 20 February 2020 - 02:55 PM.

Hey Paul, thanks for asking that question.  Another brain fart moment.... I mounted it 11" too far back.  Luckily, I can still easily move it now.  As it sits, the exhaust would interfere with the wheel well of the truck.  Doh!!